Some maybe basic questions

[lowsound10]

Just got a Re audio sx 12 off a member on here. I plan on running an Audiopipe 15001d with it because i dont have alot of money and i heard these are decent amps for the price. This is the biggest amp i ever owned. My box is tuned to 36 hz. First question what should i set the subsonic filter too? There is also a knob for bass boost frequency...i know everyone says not to use it just wwant to make sure? Next i have stock electrical. Umm pretty sure its 130 amp alternator and walmart battery right now. Once i get the amp i wasnt planning on turning the gains up high till i get another battery. I was curious on what kinda battery i would need? Id like to try and run it with very little voltage drop, i do have the big 3 done right now. Also the battery i have now is kinda brand new so i didnt know if i can run like say a XS battery off of it in the back too? I was thinking of running 0 gauge wire to a distribution block or reducer too 4 gauge would that be fine? I think thats all for now. I do have a DMM. Thanks everyone just wanna maker sure i do it right the first time.

[BanginOnABudget]

You dont need a subsonic filter with a half decent 12" like that, and for the amp, go for it! as far as a batteries, until you get a high output alternator, get a optima yellowtop or bluetop.

[lowsound10]

You dont need a subsonic filter with a half decent 12" like that, and for the amp, go for it! as far as a batteries, until you get a high output alternator, get a optima yellowtop or bluetop.

Yeah im excited first decent sub! haha and amp! soo i wanna do it right. ok soo you think just a yellowtop would hold it pretty good? is that with my battery i have or just the yellowtop?

[Maxim]

The thing I don't follow on is that the knob is a bass boost knob. Now with the Audiopipe amp I installed, the knob acted as a gain knob. Turn it to 0, get no output. Turn it to full, get output gradually up to where you set the knob on the amp at. I kept bass boost on the actual amp at 0, set the gain knob on the actual amp with a DMM and a 45hz tone, and used the knob as a remote gain knob. Does anyone actually know if it's a remote gain knob or a remote bass boost knob?

Is the sub you bought a D2 or D4 sub? The sub's rated at 1K RMS. If it's a D4, you'll be all set at 800-900 watts reliably out of the 15001d. If it's a D2, you can wire down to 1 ohm and get the full 1K rms (make sure to set your gain accordingly). I always set teh subsonic to about 5 hz below tuning frequency, so somewhere around 30hz should be fine. The 15001d will take 4 gauge power and grounds. 0-gauge to 4-gauge through reducers isn't necessary. Just one run of 4-gauge to the amp and another to a ground near the amp will be fine and will save you from buying more 0-gauge and a distro block.

[lowsound10]

The thing I don't follow on is that the knob is a bass boost knob. Now with the Audiopipe amp I installed, the knob acted as a gain knob. Turn it to 0, get no output. Turn it to full, get output gradually up to where you set the knob on the amp at. I kept bass boost on the actual amp at 0, set the gain knob on the actual amp with a DMM and a 45hz tone, and used the knob as a remote gain knob. Does anyone actually know if it's a remote gain knob or a remote bass boost knob?

Is the sub you bought a D2 or D4 sub? The sub's rated at 1K RMS. If it's a D4, you'll be all set at 800-900 watts reliably out of the 15001d. If it's a D2, you can wire down to 1 ohm and get the full 1K rms (make sure to set your gain accordingly). I always set teh subsonic to about 5 hz below tuning frequency, so somewhere around 30hz should be fine. The 15001d will take 4 gauge power and grounds. 0-gauge to 4-gauge through reducers isn't necessary. Just one run of 4-gauge to the amp and another to a ground near the amp will be fine and will save you from buying more 0-gauge and a distro block.

No im talkin bout the knobs on the amp i saw it has bass boost and bass boost frequency? unless im lookin at something wrong here...and its a d2 soo im lookin at giving it everything its got. Alright prolly get some KNU 4 gauge then.

[BanginOnABudget]

You dont need a subsonic filter with a half decent 12" like that, and for the amp, go for it! as far as a batteries, until you get a high output alternator, get a optima yellowtop or bluetop.

Yeah im excited first decent sub! haha and amp! soo i wanna do it right. ok soo you think just a yellowtop would hold it pretty good? is that with my battery i have or just the yellowtop?

thats replacing your battery. the amp draw from a 1500 audiopipe is something like 104 amps at full power, so with your alternator, you're going to need a pretty stout battery, but theres no way in hell that sub can actually handle the full power from that amp, so you should be fine for now.

to be honest, what i would do is keep the gains low, and stick with this battery for a while, and instead of replacing the battery at one point, keep saving up, and replace the battery with a kinetik hc1600 and get a high output alternator.

for alternators i like this company:

http://www.excessiveamperage.com/

give em an email, and see what they can do. they're going to need the make, model, and engine of your car.

[BanginOnABudget]

Oh and about the 0ga-4ga distrobution block, i actually say DO IT! if you want to upgrade to a bigger serious amp at some point in time, you dont want to have to run wire through the car for no reason when you chould have done that in the first place, i say do 0ga through the car and hide it behind a panel or something, and run 4 ga from that to your amp, as well as your 4ga ground. that way, all you have to do if you want to upgrade is get rid of the distro block and replace the ground, alot easier than running wire through the car again.

[lowsound10]

You dont need a subsonic filter with a half decent 12" like that, and for the amp, go for it! as far as a batteries, until you get a high output alternator, get a optima yellowtop or bluetop.

Yeah im excited first decent sub! haha and amp! soo i wanna do it right. ok soo you think just a yellowtop would hold it pretty good? is that with my battery i have or just the yellowtop?

thats replacing your battery. the amp draw from a 1500 audiopipe is something like 104 amps at full power, so with your alternator, you're going to need a pretty stout battery, but theres no way in hell that sub can actually handle the full power from that amp, so you should be fine for now.

to be honest, what i would do is keep the gains low, and stick with this battery for a while, and instead of replacing the battery at one point, keep saving up, and replace the battery with a kinetik hc1600 and get a high output alternator.

for alternators i like this company:

http://www.excessiveamperage.com/

give em an email, and see what they can do. they're going to need the make, model, and engine of your car.

Alright thanks for the tips man Thats what i figured id have to get a new alt and some batteries

[Guest]

I will post in detail about your questions when I get home in 2 hours

[Maxim]

The thing I don't follow on is that the knob is a bass boost knob. Now with the Audiopipe amp I installed, the knob acted as a gain knob. Turn it to 0, get no output. Turn it to full, get output gradually up to where you set the knob on the amp at. I kept bass boost on the actual amp at 0, set the gain knob on the actual amp with a DMM and a 45hz tone, and used the knob as a remote gain knob. Does anyone actually know if it's a remote gain knob or a remote bass boost knob?

Is the sub you bought a D2 or D4 sub? The sub's rated at 1K RMS. If it's a D4, you'll be all set at 800-900 watts reliably out of the 15001d. If it's a D2, you can wire down to 1 ohm and get the full 1K rms (make sure to set your gain accordingly). I always set teh subsonic to about 5 hz below tuning frequency, so somewhere around 30hz should be fine. The 15001d will take 4 gauge power and grounds. 0-gauge to 4-gauge through reducers isn't necessary. Just one run of 4-gauge to the amp and another to a ground near the amp will be fine and will save you from buying more 0-gauge and a distro block.

No im talkin bout the knobs on the amp i saw it has bass boost and bass boost frequency? unless im lookin at something wrong here...and its a d2 soo im lookin at giving it everything its got. Alright prolly get some KNU 4 gauge then.

AAH ok. The bass boost should stay at 0 and the bass boost frequency should just stay wherever it is when you get the amp. The remote knob that ships with the amp can be mounted up front on your dash or somewhere sneaky (some people mount them where the cigarette lighter is so it looks inconspicuous) and be used to turn up/down the volume of your subs independently of your head unit. If you want to play a song but don't want the subs at full, you can turn down the Audiopipe knob and turn down the subs and leave your door speakers at full volume. Gives you a bit more control over your system, which I'm always a fan of.