BanginOnABudget

Can i get some tips? one XJ 2 door owner to another? gonna pick up a sa-15 as soon as i can afford one, might have to get a job at mcdonalds to afford it tho >:/ fucking economy. lookin at 5ft^3@30 sundown ftw.

i hate all you p&s haters, its not that bad when you apply it correctly, and obviously you didnt, because its literally impossible to get off when applied correctly. its not THAT bad, it doesnt lower reasonance but it sure as hell stops rattles, dont give it such bad cred.... and you're supposed to heat the activator out of it before you apply it, thats why people have such shitty results and why it comes off 6 months later, because they didnt install it properly. im not a second skin hater tho, im just saying p&s isnt THAT bad.

Drools.

Just as it sounds, i have a 71'Buick Riviera(pics of one below), and am really itchin to fix it up, but it needs a LOT of work. So far i have ordered a new floorpan set, minus trans tunnel, i have swapped a different 455 into it, it starts and runs like a champ, i put new brake lines in but they keep getting air in them, and i will need to re-do the whole interior, im looking for any tips you guys may have. My first major problem is the trunk, its completely rusted out, the floor that is. i dont know how to fix it, honestly, i want to just weld a sheet of steel in, and call it a day, but i think i need to do more than that. keep in mind this car will have a "blowthrough" via the rear seat vent, with one 12" dc lvl 3 in a 4th order, and i want to hide a hifonics 1000/1@2ohms and a hifonics 150/4@4 ohms amp in it, with seleniums in the dash, rear deck, and doors, hidden of course, just something that will look stock, yet still scream... sorry, wondered off a bit, but i really need tips on how to fix the trunk floor before anything else. if it warms up i will take pics today, its freezing out, and it was like 90 yesterday.... fuckin missouri. this isnt mine, of course, just showing the dont-knows what it they look like. 71 is the only year with louvers on the rear deck ;D

I DONT UNDERSTAND why people keep putting square subs in vented enclosures.... but do whatever you want OP.

make a sealed box, as big as possible, put a piece of mdf down the middle to split the chambers, and fill the chambers with polyfill. thank me later. i hope nobody saw my massive failure before i eddited that.

you must not know alot about drivers. im refering to a driver ebp value. its real world.

in a nutshell, the way i understand the theory is that soundwaves are round, and a round diaphragm is ideal to produce sound waves, but when you introduce an oblong or square diaphragm the total Q of the driver is drastically changed, and the overall electrical compliance of the driver results in a lack of electrical Q in ported enclosures, due to defraction of the soundwaves, due to a non circular driver, this makes the woofer behave terribly in anything but a acoustic isolation enclosures, also known as sealed, ive been doing lots of research and dont fully understand all of it yet, but all of the material i have read points to the fact that anything but a round speakers doesnt produce the correct waves to be in anything more than a sealed enclosure. think of it this way, a round driver is a gasoline driven engine, and a square driver is a diesel engine, both are very similar, both do generally the same thing and work in generally the same way, but they are actually far from the same, and work, in completely different ways. i dont really know how to explain it, but i do understand what im saying, even tho im sure none of you do lol.

do you know what thiele small parameters are?

IN MOST CASES ported will be louder, but when dealing with a driver that isnt round (example: square or oblong) you will get louder with sealed, and he hit it right on the head with the displacement commend, all it really does is add room to the box, yet exposed all of the soft parts to the elements, so unless you have a garaged car and a pretty hefty woofer, i dont recommend going inverted. Elaborate please. its hard to explain without a write-up, i might make one this weekend if i have time.

What do you mean F the BTL?? i said f the new ones, not f btls. all of the characteristics of the old one are nicer than the new ones. fi really messed up by going neo on it, instead of a nice fat ferrite slug. just my opinion tho. its good for burping, but for daily, any new btl will get stomped by DC, and im not a dc nuthugger, dont even own one, just giving my opinions as an enclosure designer.

if you want to get loud, and dont want to spend alot of money, you might as well just get a train horn, because skimping on your system in any way shape or form will lead to something getting messed up, i say save up and do it right the first time. if you can only afford a sub and amp, yet not an alt, battery, multiple runs of 1/0, you arent ready for that kind of setup.

fuck the new BTLs >.> get a nice saucer mag on the cheap and put a new crescendo 3500 on it. /thread.

True, it does look cool. Not if you have Legacy Predtors >.> chrome and orange FTW/L

IN MOST CASES ported will be louder, but when dealing with a driver that isnt round (example: square or oblong) you will get louder with sealed, and he hit it right on the head with the displacement commend, all it really does is add room to the box, yet exposed all of the soft parts to the elements, so unless you have a garaged car and a pretty hefty woofer, i dont recommend going inverted.

68. a "new" temporary amp will be going in today

for such a shitty amp, im suprised i havent popped it yet. this was my first amp, and has lasted 4-5 years so far, but i dont get why the case needs to be so big for so few internals lol. im guessing its doing about 120 watts to the FI, before box and wire rise.

heres a pic of the box we're going to build soon. 5.5ft^3 sealed, 10ft^3 ported, 21.5"x8" port (off the top of my head, i think) tuned to 45hz. outer demensions are going to be 48x23x32. going to use a hell of alot of resin, and a hell of alot of 3/4 threaded rod.

not on this amp he doesn't! 3mm xmax, MAYBE, before it starts clipping. gain is allll the way down.

lol, lets just say this is no where as loud, currently, as his last system.

Just as it sounds, just givin him a little beat, and might i add, the amp and sub i had laying around, everything else he bought, this is very much something he wanted, not something i did when i was bored, and i know the truck might not be pretty, its just a 4x4 hunting vehicle, but no sense in leaving everything stock, plus every year at the 4th i have to compete with some asshole from the other side of the family for sound dominance while we watch the fireworks.... Pioneer (2200?) deck, cant remember the number off hand, but its a nice cheap deck that will get the job done. Cheap 4" up front Pioneer 6.5"s in the rear doors Factory 4x10s in the back Legacy PREDATOR(lol) 800w amp (more like 100) (if you want to see the guts let me know lol) Fi X-Series 15" in a idfk tuned box. shitty temp. 8ga wiring kit To Come: 2:1 4th order for the Fi. AP15001 amp knu 4ga DC lvl 3 15" to replace the Fi. 2 2channel 400w amps 2 sets of the brand new crescendo 6.5"s and a different deck, one set of 2v preouts aint gonna cut it for long. will have an ipod mount where the drivers side vent is, should work pretty nicely, and can slide it out if we NEED to, but we're windows down kind of guys so shouldnt be a problemo. these will be getting replaced pretty soon... think Dayton. i repainted the grills, actually look pretty nice now, not that cheap dull shit it used to be. this box is a real head turner, as in, what the fuck is wrong with that box? lol... temp. wiring. Big 2 upgrade, didnt have enough time to finish today. The factory horn was demolished, couldnt even be heard over the running motor, and exhaust leak, so we installed these bad boys, $20 kit, couldnt be happier, sounds like a nice fat air horn, was easy as shit to install too, just drilled 2 holes and reamed out a mount. suprisingly the cheap 4"s get loud as shit, kind of suprised for such shitty VR3's, oh well, more to come!! whatcha guys thinkin so far??

as long as its not a piece of goat shit in a sealed box, im fine with it. wanted a sa-8 in my room for my HT setup, till i saw the responce graph >.>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnWOhkrP1bY i mean.... it looks real to me, but everyone else is callin fake. what do you guys think? would have posted in vids, but its late and i dont want to wait 2 hours for a reply.

i did a build that was a mirror of this in another jeep XJ, only one sub, and its doing a 148.7 on 700 watts, it makes sense to say this build will do a 150, at least to me.

1600wrms from my 1500bd, and trust me, that will be more than enough for this setup, but dont let that fool you, this is going to get LOUD for such a cheap build. this whole rebuild will only run be about $1000 with better bats, the subs, materials, more deadener, all new trim panels for the interior, and more, shooting for a 150, and judging by the acoustic profile of my design, that wont be a problem.