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About BanginOnABudget

  • Birthday 08/26/1992

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Jefferson City Missouri
  • Interests
    car audio, HIPO cars, and the ladies. maybe not in that order tho ;)

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  1. Can i get some tips? one XJ 2 door owner to another? gonna pick up a sa-15 as soon as i can afford one, might have to get a job at mcdonalds to afford it tho >:/ fucking economy. lookin at 5ft^[email protected] sundown ftw.
  2. i hate all you p&s haters, its not that bad when you apply it correctly, and obviously you didnt, because its literally impossible to get off when applied correctly. its not THAT bad, it doesnt lower reasonance but it sure as hell stops rattles, dont give it such bad cred.... and you're supposed to heat the activator out of it before you apply it, thats why people have such shitty results and why it comes off 6 months later, because they didnt install it properly. im not a second skin hater tho, im just saying p&s isnt THAT bad.
  3. Just as it sounds, i have a 71'Buick Riviera(pics of one below), and am really itchin to fix it up, but it needs a LOT of work. So far i have ordered a new floorpan set, minus trans tunnel, i have swapped a different 455 into it, it starts and runs like a champ, i put new brake lines in but they keep getting air in them, and i will need to re-do the whole interior, im looking for any tips you guys may have. My first major problem is the trunk, its completely rusted out, the floor that is. i dont know how to fix it, honestly, i want to just weld a sheet of steel in, and call it a day, but i think i need to do more than that. keep in mind this car will have a "blowthrough" via the rear seat vent, with one 12" dc lvl 3 in a 4th order, and i want to hide a hifonics 1000/[email protected] and a hifonics 150/[email protected] ohms amp in it, with seleniums in the dash, rear deck, and doors, hidden of course, just something that will look stock, yet still scream... sorry, wondered off a bit, but i really need tips on how to fix the trunk floor before anything else. if it warms up i will take pics today, its freezing out, and it was like 90 yesterday.... fuckin missouri. this isnt mine, of course, just showing the dont-knows what it they look like. 71 is the only year with louvers on the rear deck ;D
  4. I DONT UNDERSTAND why people keep putting square subs in vented enclosures.... but do whatever you want OP.
  5. make a sealed box, as big as possible, put a piece of mdf down the middle to split the chambers, and fill the chambers with polyfill. thank me later. i hope nobody saw my massive failure before i eddited that.
  6. you must not know alot about drivers. im refering to a driver ebp value. its real world.
  7. in a nutshell, the way i understand the theory is that soundwaves are round, and a round diaphragm is ideal to produce sound waves, but when you introduce an oblong or square diaphragm the total Q of the driver is drastically changed, and the overall electrical compliance of the driver results in a lack of electrical Q in ported enclosures, due to defraction of the soundwaves, due to a non circular driver, this makes the woofer behave terribly in anything but a acoustic isolation enclosures, also known as sealed, ive been doing lots of research and dont fully understand all of it yet, but all of the material i have read points to the fact that anything but a round speakers doesnt produce the correct waves to be in anything more than a sealed enclosure. think of it this way, a round driver is a gasoline driven engine, and a square driver is a diesel engine, both are very similar, both do generally the same thing and work in generally the same way, but they are actually far from the same, and work, in completely different ways. i dont really know how to explain it, but i do understand what im saying, even tho im sure none of you do lol.
  8. IN MOST CASES ported will be louder, but when dealing with a driver that isnt round (example: square or oblong) you will get louder with sealed, and he hit it right on the head with the displacement commend, all it really does is add room to the box, yet exposed all of the soft parts to the elements, so unless you have a garaged car and a pretty hefty woofer, i dont recommend going inverted. Elaborate please. its hard to explain without a write-up, i might make one this weekend if i have time.
  9. What do you mean F the BTL?? i said f the new ones, not f btls. all of the characteristics of the old one are nicer than the new ones. fi really messed up by going neo on it, instead of a nice fat ferrite slug. just my opinion tho. its good for burping, but for daily, any new btl will get stomped by DC, and im not a dc nuthugger, dont even own one, just giving my opinions as an enclosure designer.
  10. if you want to get loud, and dont want to spend alot of money, you might as well just get a train horn, because skimping on your system in any way shape or form will lead to something getting messed up, i say save up and do it right the first time. if you can only afford a sub and amp, yet not an alt, battery, multiple runs of 1/0, you arent ready for that kind of setup.
  11. fuck the new BTLs >.> get a nice saucer mag on the cheap and put a new crescendo 3500 on it. /thread.
  12. True, it does look cool. Not if you have Legacy Predtors >.> chrome and orange FTW/L
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