2002 Caddy (8) Fi Btl 18's (2) Rockford T15k's and TONS more! Ipad Air 2 In Dash Page 16

[meade916]

It was rainin, it was pourin but this old man wasnt snorin.......i was out there workin

here is todays update. Oh ya, the weather out here in cali made short work of my RF banners.....damn!!

[meade916]

looks good and all but it will look even better sunk in a little.....

[meade916]

[meade916]

how bout this for a stealthy Bass knob.......what WAS and still APPEARS to be a cigarette lighter is now something entirely different

[meade916]

the gaps were big so i needed some sort of backer for the Flex Filler

i decided to use some plastic from earlier "butchery" This give me something solid to toss the mud onto instead of "free-Airing" it or using duct tape (which works too but i wanted something more solid here).

AFter cleaning it, Some plastic prep was applied.....

[meade916]

ive had enough for today, tomorrow, MORE sanding

[meade916]

just a little sanding tonite nothing too exciting.....i still have more to do but my hands are raw. These two pieces are sanded to 600 so they are gettin real smooth

next i need to finish the dash piece sanding and then shoot them. Probably gloss black. Then i can move on to other stuff.....

please leave comments here :

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...mp;#entry224400

thanks!

[meade916]

Vid of the Hoopty gettin metered.........she's officially loud

dash

kick

[meade916]

[meade916]

ok its friday, ive been up since 5, im tired........but i got out there and made some sawdust tonite anyway. Tomorrow i figure out exactly how im gonna do this and if it goes as planned i will be butchering up the passenger side door real soon. Anyway this is your tutorial for the day This is how you make a countersunk trim ring to flush in your mids.

First, start by planning it out....the spiral upcut bit will cut in increments of 1/2". It is a 1/4" bit but when you cut a circle its doubled.

Next set the depth of the bit to go most of the way thru, but not all the way. I leave about 3/8". Doesnt sound like a lot but its fine for a 6" speaker especially since it will have resin and glass on it to reinforce later.

if your doing multiples of the same ring, instead of doing one ring at a time and moving the pin every time, i just do them all at once.

It takes 6 passes to do these, all at different measurements and since the pin gets moved a lot, its helpful to mark the holes you use the most so you can find them quick. No thats not blood from when i cut my finger its red marker There is a LITTLE DNA on the other side though, like a drop. I left it there to remind me of my war-wound

Once the countersink is done its time to cut the very outside of the ring at full depth. Now this is the hand saver here.......i used to cut it off, flip the router upside down and cut the middle out. Now, just cut the very outside all the way around but leave about a 1/2" tab. The reason you dont cut the middle out sooner is you lose your pivot hole as soon as that is gone...so the very middle hole needs to be intact till the LAST pass.

see how the Tab holds the ring in place, this allows you to cut the middle portion out while its still attached to the flat stock.

Now grab a jig saw and cut that tab off. Its only 1/2" so if you have any skills you should be able to keep it nice and round. Take a sander to whatever is left of it and you cant even tell there is a tab. Done deal!