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ok this maybe a stupid question but im going to ask any ways. i know a little bit about audio but not enough to figure this out. my dad gave me a s10 he built and there is no radio in it. also there is no harness to plug a adapter into so i need to hard wire it. there inlays the problem there are really no wires in the dash since he swapped the motor out to a carbed v8. i mostly just need to know where i can get a constant +12volt from a switched +12volt and a ground. the ground i figure i could tap into the bar that runs under the dash or some where around there. the speakers i can run them anywhere i want to. but where can i get the +12volt sources from? its a 87 s10 reg cab if that helps at all.

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ignition column for switched and constant. or go to the battery for constant. FUSE your leads!

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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ignition column for switched and constant. or go to the battery for constant. FUSE your leads!

What he said

¿ǝɯɐƃ ǝɥʇ

Trolls never learn............

All BS aside, If I see one more comment in here that is NOT about the pre-sale, I will start the vacations. And that includes the trolls feeding the trolls.

YOU THE ONE THAT SOUND LIKE A OGER AND HUMPBACK/TROLLS?

Add "SMDLIFER" on Xbox LIVE to play with other SMD members.

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i fuse all of my powers. what size fuse should i run? do you know off hand what color the wires are i need to tap into.

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You can also go to your fuse box and use a test light to see which is constant and switched and usally a 10 amp would be fine.

Constant 12V+ Orange

Switched 12V+ Yellow

Ground Black

Illumination Gray

Dimmer Brown

Antenna Right Front

Front Speakers 4" x 6" Dash

Left Front (+) Tan

Left Front (-) Gray

Right Front (+) Light Green

Right Front (-) Dark Green

Rear Speakers 4" x 10" Rear Corners

Left Rear (+) Brown

Left Rear (-) Yellow

Right Rear (+) Dark Blue

Right Rear (-) Light Blue

Edited by ingramcaraudio
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im not a fan of going to the fuse box or a test light to be honest. I prefer the ignition source and its own seperate fuse. As for wwhat colors they are its tough to say and i wont recommend any wires in a truck someone else built.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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if it was mine and also being a custom truck i would run a 12v fused constant right to the battery and as for the switched 12v i would make my own switch :good: with another fused 12v constant from the battery

but i like switches just my .02

Btw that was the first person. Ever banned by me while dropping a deuce. Feel privileged

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I posted the wiring if the factory has just been cut but the wiring is still in tact if not then the code won't really help. Ignition is the better way to go but it's also more trouble for some people. The fuse box is a pretty easy quick fix.

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ill prolly run a fused wire from the battery for the constant and prolly the ignition for my switched. what size fuses should i run on each one.

edit sorry that was already answered. just red all the reply at once and forgot but just saw it again.

Edited by monoxide
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id use ignition wires, no need to run one to the batt, just find a constant and switch under the column.

and the best place ever for factory wiring colors = the12volt.com

has a lot of info in there, and a 10-15 amp fuse should suffice.

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