Ford Mustang Posted May 10, 2011 Report Posted May 10, 2011 Hi guys, first post here, been a long time watcher of Steve on YouTube, so I have a little bit of knowledge here.... but not a lot, so please forgive me. Anyway, I'm working on my first real system, but I want to see how much I have to spend first. I'm gonna be putting this into a '00 Mazda Protege, if that helps. I would like to put two 10s in the trunk, I think 12s would be too big, as I had one 10 in a '98 Hyundai Accent (and still do), and that was adequate for the time. It was just a Fosgate P2 running on a 1000w amp at like ~350watts, but it was fine for what I needed. (Image not of my car, but a '00 Mazda Protege) Right behind the tail lights, there's a little hole that I was thinking of setting the two subs in, one on each side, running the wires under the trunk floor and then putting the amp up close to the rear seats. I don't want to buy a box with my subs, I'd rather make the "box". Probably a piece of wood, cut to fit the sub, and then either carpeted or painted to match, then screwed to the side of my trunk. Doesn't necessarily have to be ported either, it would probably be better though, right? My last "system" was a "plug and play" deal from Crutchfield, the only real electronics store we have around here. I'll be buying from them again, but only the sub, amp, and wiring, not a box. Haven't started looking at the subs yet, I was just trying to see if my idea would work, first. My choice of wood would probably be some particle board, and not plywood - or is there a better choice in the wood? I work at Lowe's, so it isn't that hard to get some. A few other questions that are probably simple, and I'm just too newb to know them... If I run the two subs, say 400w RMS, bridged on a 1000w amp, the amp could run at 800w and it would distribute evenly and wouldn't fry the subs, right? Also, I'm thinking of adding a small sub for my four speakers in the car (which are Pioneer, came with the car, car was used, etc). Two 6s, and two 6x9s. They provide a decent amount of sound already, would there be a vast improvement into getting a 4 channel amp for those? This is all running off an old JVC KDG-220 head unit which is providing 45w RMS to the speakers as it is.
tonedeaf Posted May 10, 2011 Report Posted May 10, 2011 Making two separate boxes for those 'holes' would be a pain in the ass and you wouldnt be able to fit them if ported, probably not even with sealed? The average 10 inch needs around 1.3 cubes probably sealed I wanna say, before displacement, etc. Honestly I think your best bet would be to make a box like everyone else that sits with behind the seats. It will be much easier and less of a pain in the ass. Wood choices = mdf is the cheapest and best to use. No plywood or particle board (leaks ftfl). As for bridging the subs on a 2 channel amp, that will be fine as long as you wire them correctly. They will both draw the same amount of power. And last but not least, the 'small sub' for your speakers im assuming you mean a highs/mids amp? ANY kind of power from a highs amps (as long as its not terribly distorted/clipped) will be 10000000000000000000000009999999 times better then the power of your JVC HU. Headunits have terribly inefficient amps that dont put out near what they are saying and are normally not very clean power. The 45 RMS is probably all things being perfect at max volume (will probably be clipping at this point, 99% of JVCs do iirc.) You put 15 watts of clean power to them from any amp and they will probably sound better. That being said, check the model of the pioneers and dont exceed their power recommendation. Seeing as your new and still a 'newb', browse the forum for stickies/what nots and start reading. Youll be amazed at what you can find and learn about. Welcome to SMD. :drinks:
Azagtoth502 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Posted May 10, 2011 Well use this to make a good ported box (yes ported will be louder) http://www.stevemead...or-updated-310/ You say you work at Lowes, so get a sheet of MDF.......Birch will also work well & is lighter but costs a little more. Pre-drill screw holes, use Titebond II for glue. To sum it up, you can build a good box for less than $50. BTW, that JVC unit is actually 17rms. The 45 is max watts which means nothing. Yes..an 800 watt amp powering 2 400 watt subs would be fine..as long as you match the impedance properly. Also...Crutchfield is overpriced. Since there are so many amps & brands to choose, how much do you want to spend on amps & subs? Look into Audioque....one of the best bang for the buck equipment makers there are. http://www.audioque.com/ And as tonedeaf said, SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH.....most of your answers are already here. pa-pa-platypus sorry not everybody has a companies nuts so far down their throat they catch every drop ball sweat when it falls
Ford Mustang Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Posted May 12, 2011 Hmm, okay. Apparently one of the guys I work with knows his stuff about subs and systems and all. Got quite a bit of information from him as well. Now, the question is, should I get 2 10" subs at ~500w RMS, or 2 12" subs at ~350w RMS? I found a package deal locally of two Kenwood 4ohm 10" subs for $69.99, handles 300w RMS, 1000w peak, frequency range of 35hz-300hz, so I figure they'd sound okay running on 400w or so. I don't have a ton of money, but I do have a 1000w amp already, so I figure I'd use most of it if I could. I'm trying to go as budget friendly as possible, heh, so cheap - but still sounding good. The RF P2 I had sounded good, I just want a little more oomph when the time comes. The Kenwood's above are looking to be good as a first "system" deal. Also, he said I could bridge the speaker to itself, pending what type I get - is this true? I know I can bridge to the amp, I've done that before. He said that'd lower the ohms of the speaker, then bridging on the amp would be best (which I had planned on doing anyway). Just as a funny thought, found an offbrand 10" sub for $30, says it can handle 400w RMS, 800w peak. Reviews on it says they pack a hell of a punch for the price, but probably not what I'm looking for.. same offbrand 12" sub for $55, 500w RMS, 1000w peak. And before I forget... he showed me his system this morning after work, and it sounded clean as hell. He's not using a 4channel amp for his 6x8's, he's using bass blockers to all four and then letting his subs take the bass department. Would that be an "adequate" option over buying an amp, or is there really no substitute? I liked the way his sounded, is the reason I'm asking. Thanks again for all your help guys, I'm trying to read and learn, but there's a ton of information here to grasp and then apply.
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