Monergist Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 changed the positive on the DMM from the 10ADC to the V(resistance)mA slot and then turned the car power on and the popping went crazy. I know it's not funny but I couldn't help but laugh when you said that. It's brand new so it's under warranty. Hook it back up and see if it works. If it's blown, give Rockford a call tomorrow. 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham Pioneer AVH-P5200BT Hertz Mille MLK-165 Component System Hertz Hi Energy HCX-165, 6.5 Hertz Hi Energy HCX-690 (6x9s) Audison Voce AV K6 Component System Audison VRX 4.300 Audison VRX 2.250 Sundown 4500D SMD 15" XS Power D3400 (under hood) Three XS Power D3100 (trunk) Monster XLN-201 RCAs DC Power Engineering 390XP H/O Alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Don't go by anything anyone says as far as what something might cost to repair cause there may be hidden damage not seen but will need the proper equipment to test and the cost can vary wildly depending on whats wrong with it, now whats been said may be a ballpark figure but it's best to assume a worst case scenario in the event it really is that bad. thats kinda true. my quote was for a power supply rebuild. these amps are pretty different so cost could be far from $200. best to talk to the repair guys and get a quote. how did you plug the meter into the amp wrong? what did you do? and im not 100% sure, but i think fosgate still uses their MEHSA technology on their amps and that technology is super difficult to fix. Well i was having problems getting good sound out of my subs so i asked for help and was doing what people suggested. So i checked the voltage to the amp and it was good. then i wanted to check the DC Offset and it was 0.00 but i didnt know if i had the positive plug on the DMM in the right spot. So i turned off the car, changed the positive on the DMM from the 10ADC to the V(resistance)mA slot and then turned the car power on and the popping went crazy. so you measured resistance of the power and ground? ya... you cant measure resistance of a hot wire. you made a short through the DMM. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkahns51 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 changed the positive on the DMM from the 10ADC to the V(resistance)mA slot and then turned the car power on and the popping went crazy. I know it's not funny but I couldn't help but laugh when you said that. It's brand new so it's under warranty. Hook it back up and see if it works. If it's blown, give Rockford a call tomorrow. Well ive never used a DMM so i dont know what it does. I bought the amp from Trippi.. so i dont think i get a warrenty.... **Clicky>>My 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Buildlog<<Clicky** I'm messing up 98% of the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkahns51 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Don't go by anything anyone says as far as what something might cost to repair cause there may be hidden damage not seen but will need the proper equipment to test and the cost can vary wildly depending on whats wrong with it, now whats been said may be a ballpark figure but it's best to assume a worst case scenario in the event it really is that bad. thats kinda true. my quote was for a power supply rebuild. these amps are pretty different so cost could be far from $200. best to talk to the repair guys and get a quote. how did you plug the meter into the amp wrong? what did you do? and im not 100% sure, but i think fosgate still uses their MEHSA technology on their amps and that technology is super difficult to fix. Well i was having problems getting good sound out of my subs so i asked for help and was doing what people suggested. So i checked the voltage to the amp and it was good. then i wanted to check the DC Offset and it was 0.00 but i didnt know if i had the positive plug on the DMM in the right spot. So i turned off the car, changed the positive on the DMM from the 10ADC to the V(resistance)mA slot and then turned the car power on and the popping went crazy. so you measured resistance of the power and ground? ya... you cant measure resistance of a hot wire. you made a short through the DMM. No the cables were plugged into the speaker outputs. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634 i went off of what this article said.. i was right checking it the first time.. but when i changed the positive thing that is where i fucked up. **Clicky>>My 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Buildlog<<Clicky** I'm messing up 98% of the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 same concept. you measured resistance of hot wires and created a short. RF wouldnt have warrantied that anyways. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkahns51 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 same concept. you measured resistance of hot wires and created a short. RF wouldnt have warrantied that anyways. Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. **Clicky>>My 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Buildlog<<Clicky** I'm messing up 98% of the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 No the cables were plugged into the speaker outputs. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634 i went off of what this article said.. i was right checking it the first time.. but when i changed the positive thing that is where i fucked up. dude... that thing if for vintage, solid state, home audio amplifiers. why were you doing anything it says in there? If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. ya, thats going in the sig If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkahns51 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 No the cables were plugged into the speaker outputs. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634 i went off of what this article said.. i was right checking it the first time.. but when i changed the positive thing that is where i fucked up. dude... that thing if for vintage, solid state, home audio amplifiers. why were you doing anything it says in there? cus someone told me to do a DC offset and i didnt know what i ment.. was first on google.. Edit.. i didnt know it was for home speakers i didnt pay that close of attention.. and yeah 8 years old. my god.. **Clicky>>My 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Buildlog<<Clicky** I'm messing up 98% of the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 there is no reason for you to measure dc offset. dont know why anyone told you you needed to know what it was. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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