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Do I Need A New Head Unit Just For New Subs?


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Great thank you guys for ur posts

thx jack sounds simple!

and matt,

okay that all sounds like I can do it but - as you said how would i get through the firewall for the amp/sub power? can the subs be plugged into a car socket...i have one of those in my trunk. i could wire that to the same switch as my subs

so everything seems easy enojugh...butjust the power for the amp...

suggestions/tips?

thanks so muchg gjuys you guys have been very supportive

~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm

with Shock and Proximity

(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator

(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0

(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell

(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver

(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device

(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers

(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface

(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers

(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)

(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils

(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz

(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier

(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)

(1) Stinger Volt Meter

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usually u can find an existing rubber gromet on the fire wall...just poke a hole it it and run ur wire. and no...u just wire ur subs straight to the amp. the remote turn on for the amp: u can tap into to the factory amp turn on i suppose and just run it back to the amp...

i likes me some audio stuff...

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ok thanks alot

everything makes sense to me except - wehre do i run the wire hah? just right through the middle of the car? i gues most ppl go under the chassis or something?

thx for ur help - i plan on buying subs eithr 2morow orthe weekend so hiopefully we kan figure this otu haha :)

~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm

with Shock and Proximity

(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator

(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0

(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell

(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver

(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device

(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers

(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface

(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers

(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)

(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils

(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz

(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier

(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)

(1) Stinger Volt Meter

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okay great your help is much appreciated!! keep you posted on how I do haha....like i said either 2morow ngiht or weekend

thanks alo :)

~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm

with Shock and Proximity

(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator

(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0

(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell

(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver

(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device

(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers

(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface

(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers

(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)

(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils

(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz

(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier

(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)

(1) Stinger Volt Meter

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dmanson,

Oh thanks for the tip! I'm sorry I don't know what a audiocontrol thing is...you can just add it right onto my current hu?

ill search google 4 it

thxx for that tip man

look into the audiocontrol 3.1 or 4.1 or even the Rockford Fosgate 360 and 360.2. there's so many units out that will allow you to keep your factory and yet get quality sound.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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okay i bought subs tonight

having a HARD time installing them haha

anyone know on a '01 yukon xl how to get the factory sub out and / or locate the amp?

thanks

~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm

with Shock and Proximity

(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator

(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0

(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell

(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver

(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device

(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers

(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface

(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers

(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)

(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils

(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz

(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier

(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)

(1) Stinger Volt Meter

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u need to get a line output converter like mentioned above with one pair of RCA's...it will have 5wires on one side and the rca's on the other side. 2 wires should be gray (maybe a different color), two wires should be white (again, maybe a different color) and one wire is black. u need to take the factory head unit out and find the following wires in the wiring harness...

Brown (left rear positive)

Yellow (left rear negative)

Dark Blue (right rear positive)

Light Blue (right rear negative)

then connect from the line output converter:

White wire with black stripe --to-- Light blue wire

White wire with no stripe --to-- dark blue wire

Gray wire with black stripe --to--yellow

Gray wire with no stripe --to-- brown

the black wire should be grounded somewhere near where u are going to mount (or ziptie) the line output converter...just find a bolt, unbolt it and put wire around it and bolt it back down.

then run your rca's from the line output converter to your amp. i couldnt find if there was an ignition souce...for a 07 gmc sierra it said there was not one....so that means you are gonna have to run your remote wire from the amp, to a switch (which should be placed near the dash so can easily access it) and then from the switch to the battery...good luck!

i likes me some audio stuff...

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Okay thank you SO much for allt aht help

i understand everything you said ( i bought a converter as well, the wires match waht you described)

but i don't know how to take the head unit out and also how I would run the wires

because the wires obviously aren't going to be going through the middle of the car....

soo that means they have to go behind the head unit somewhere and end up in teh back of my car which i dont know how to do

the main prob. is getting the head unit off..

i can popp off the plastic pltae that goes on in front of the head unit, but can't pull it all the way off (maybe i have to take the steering column off?)

help?

thx so much so far u guys and i hope i can get this working its fustrating haha

~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm

with Shock and Proximity

(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator

(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0

(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell

(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver

(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device

(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers

(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface

(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers

(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)

(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils

(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz

(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier

(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)

(1) Stinger Volt Meter

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2001 is a real basic install... just put the shifter in drive, pop off the trim around the stereo and then press the tabs on the sides of the deck to slide it out. i would take a rag and lay it across the ac controls will you try to unplug the harness from the rear of the hu to avoid scratches. wire up intgration module and mount stereo....enjoy

^^go with that to try and get the dash apart...

as far as running the wires...im assuming ur talking about for the line output converter (LOC). u should be able to find a spot behind the head unit somewhere to ziptie it up.

here is how i wired the wires from the LOC to the factory wires in the wiring harness...first with a utility knife (i always use on to strip wires...i hate wire strippers for some reason..lol) cut around the wire and then go about an inch down and cut around the wire again...then run the blade up the wire to connect the cuts (and try not to cut the wires or your hand here)...then peel off the insulation...in the pic below the dotted lines represent where im talking about cutting the fatory wire

wire1.jpg

and this pic is what it should look like once u pulled the insulation off (the brown with the lines represents the actual wires...plz excuse my paint skills..lol)

pic2-1.jpg

then take the wire from the LOC and wrap it around the factory wire...solder if u would like...and wrap it tightly with electrical tape...repeat this process for the remaining 3 wires. then after u have them all individually wired and wrapped...wrap them all up and it will look stock.

it takes a little time and some finess but it aint to bad...

i likes me some audio stuff...

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