Art's 92' Corolla Build

[dereileak]

Another update. I started my car earlier this morning to go get some gas and run some errands, and my alternator doesn't charge. My car needed gas , so I drove to the gas station and back at around 12 volts. I probed the battery, and I got 12 volt reading. Then I probed the Alternator itself (at the Pos+ post and the casing ground) and still got a 12 volt reading. SOOOO the alternator is pretty much dust. I'm gonna try to get a refund from mechman and send the unit back. I really don't want to have to do business from 5+ states away, and I'm feeling like I might get a new car sometime in the near future. Anyways, Tomorrow my mechanic is gonna make something to fit the bracket he made to get the old alternator back in. I have to drive to palm springs tomorrow, so this just happened at a perfect time!

And no hard feelings towards Mechman or any of their products, the alternator worked great up until now. I would just rather not have the risk of something happening again, and then have to pay shipping to send the alternator cross country to get it fixed.

Many that sucks, i really hope my mechman has no issues, idk what it is but there are a lot of posts with mechman alt issues, idk what it is though, mine comes in soon, so I hope it works fine also your build is awesome, I have audiotechnix stuff also, works great!!

[Cardboardcat15]

Another update. I started my car earlier this morning to go get some gas and run some errands, and my alternator doesn't charge. My car needed gas , so I drove to the gas station and back at around 12 volts. I probed the battery, and I got 12 volt reading. Then I probed the Alternator itself (at the Pos+ post and the casing ground) and still got a 12 volt reading. SOOOO the alternator is pretty much dust. I'm gonna try to get a refund from mechman and send the unit back. I really don't want to have to do business from 5+ states away, and I'm feeling like I might get a new car sometime in the near future. Anyways, Tomorrow my mechanic is gonna make something to fit the bracket he made to get the old alternator back in. I have to drive to palm springs tomorrow, so this just happened at a perfect time!

And no hard feelings towards Mechman or any of their products, the alternator worked great up until now. I would just rather not have the risk of something happening again, and then have to pay shipping to send the alternator cross country to get it fixed.

Many that sucks, i really hope my mechman has no issues, idk what it is but there are a lot of posts with mechman alt issues, idk what it is though, mine comes in soon, so I hope it works fine also your build is awesome, I have audiotechnix stuff also, works great!!

Thanks! Haha I feel you on the alt issue though, I may have just had bad luck, but now I'm paranoid about starting my car because I don't want to see my voltmeter reading 12 volts LOL. But Mechman makes great products, their alternators are beasts. If I didn't have to need a custom bracket I wouldn't be as worried about my alt dying, but since I have a custom bracket my old alternator doesn't fit and I NEED my car for school and work. But I have faith in their products. PLUS the two year warranty is nice. I'm hoping that my alternator is good now, I hope I wont have anymore issues. I'm sure I wont though.

And yes! The audiotechnix is amazing! Best bang for your buck! I am so pleased with the product. I even have a good 5sqft left after doing my trunk and lid!

[Cardboardcat15]

Woah, haven't updated this in a while. Things really slowed down, I hit the alternator speed bump, and ever since then my money has been dwindling. Anywhere from gas or little things with my car have taken a toll on the wallet haha. A little update doesn't hurt though. Nothing much has changed, just rocking the same old gear. The MB quart amp is still sitting in it's box, like it has been since I got it. I took it out once to find a mounting area and realized that I probably wont have the space/need for that power. I'm thinking about selling it and looking for a nicer 4 channel that will do smaller power. Maybe something more SQ oriented. One of my goals in the future is to run some nicer components for my front stage. (Maybe the lower end HAT Imagine series) Then upgrade the rears to the same. I might have something up in the for sale section soon LOL. Either way, I have decided that I wont be upgrading anything with my car until after each quarter of school, mainly because I get paid for grades by my aunt (thankfully, she's awesome) AND I get my refund for school. Plus, that's the only time I get breaks from classes where I have 3+days to just let my car sit so I can work on it.

So there ay go. A little update for the select few (and I use that term loosely) that watch my build log. haha.

[Cardboardcat15]

Little update. Decided to drive the 25+ minutes it is to go home for my one and ONLY jacket, seeing how god was taking a piss on southern California today. Anyways, old stripped car= No auto headlights. I think you all can see where this is going.

I left my headlights on for a good 7 hours. Needless to say, my batteries were almost toast. The Redtop was sitting at about 11.8 after I took it out for 2 hours. The XS Power was around 11.6.

I've got the XS power on the charger right now, I'm hoping it'll be fine. It discharged pretty well though, along with the redtop. I'm hoping I'm not out 250+ bucks. =/

[Cardboardcat15]

Another small update. Yanked everything out after banging for a solid 4 months. During this time I've bolted the false floor down, installed the 4 channel and that's about it. I am planning a rebuild sometime after Christmas. I will either be using:

2 level 4 12's

or

4 level 3 10's

No set decision on DC Audio, I may choose another company with similar woofers with similar power handling, I've just always assumed I would go the DC route. I am leaning more towards the level 4 12's for space and weight issues, but I have a feeling I'd be louder with the 4 10's. For those of you who are actually paying attention, give me your opinion!

[Bump4life]

first, did you up grade to 0 gauge for your audiopipe amp? that is a must. 2nd thing i noticed, why not just ground oyur audio pipe amp to the battery? (make sure ground is as short as possible definetly less than 3 ft. and possibly DD subs? DC is good too but just something to think about.

[Cardboardcat15]

first, did you up grade to 0 gauge for your audiopipe amp? that is a must. 2nd thing i noticed, why not just ground oyur audio pipe amp to the battery? (make sure ground is as short as possible definetly less than 3 ft. and possibly DD subs? DC is good too but just something to think about.

I eventually moved the ground to the battery, yes. Sadly the AP 1500 only accepts 4 Gauge, and I didn't have any 1/0 to 4 gauge reducers, so the 4 gauge stayed for a while. It's actually all out of the car right now. I'm only running the MB Quart 4 channel to my Mids and Highs right now. Once christmas passes, I'll be doing a rebuild since I'll have more time. I'm gonna do 2 level 3 15's in a sealed box, since space is a big issue with this car.

[Bump4life]

first, did you up grade to 0 gauge for your audiopipe amp? that is a must. 2nd thing i noticed, why not just ground oyur audio pipe amp to the battery? (make sure ground is as short as possible definetly less than 3 ft. and possibly DD subs? DC is good too but just something to think about.

I eventually moved the ground to the battery, yes. Sadly the AP 1500 only accepts 4 Gauge, and I didn't have any 1/0 to 4 gauge reducers, so the 4 gauge stayed for a while. It's actually all out of the car right now. I'm only running the MB Quart 4 channel to my Mids and Highs right now. Once christmas passes, I'll be doing a rebuild since I'll have more time. I'm gonna do 2 level 3 15's in a sealed box, since space is a big issue with this car.

you can trim 0 gauge to fit in 4 gauge hook ups on amp. but reducers are pretty cheap. knuconceptz or darvex. and why are you going sealed as opposed to a ported box for subs?

[Cardboardcat15]

first, did you up grade to 0 gauge for your audiopipe amp? that is a must. 2nd thing i noticed, why not just ground oyur audio pipe amp to the battery? (make sure ground is as short as possible definetly less than 3 ft. and possibly DD subs? DC is good too but just something to think about.

I eventually moved the ground to the battery, yes. Sadly the AP 1500 only accepts 4 Gauge, and I didn't have any 1/0 to 4 gauge reducers, so the 4 gauge stayed for a while. It's actually all out of the car right now. I'm only running the MB Quart 4 channel to my Mids and Highs right now. Once christmas passes, I'll be doing a rebuild since I'll have more time. I'm gonna do 2 level 3 15's in a sealed box, since space is a big issue with this car.

you can trim 0 gauge to fit in 4 gauge hook ups on amp. but reducers are pretty cheap. knuconceptz or darvex. and why are you going sealed as opposed to a ported box for subs?

Yeah I know, I was just too lazy to do it Once I put the amp back in I'll do that. The reason I'm going sealed is because I have almost no space for ported anything. I don't have much space for external aeroports, and if I were to build a box with a sufficient slot port, I wouldn't have more than 1.6 ish CF or so to dabble with after displacement. I figure I can get louder with a sealed box and as much cone area as possible. Plus, I listen to a wide array of music ranging from slowed/chopped/rap to rock, death metal and trance. Also, with a sealed box, I'll still have a small bit of cargo space for storage, so a sealed box just kinda fits well with what I'm looking for in my system right now. My next car will most likely have some more cargo space so I can get things done proper with a nice ported box though

[Siete_Cinqo]

Just do what you can with the knowledge you have bro. Just keep at it. Should be cool!!