Sammitch0 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) I have 2 DC Level 3 15's with extra spiders, running about 750RMS ea. It's loud but I want more but in order to do that I'd have to wall and keeping my back seats are a MUST (i hate 2 seater vehicles i'd buy a car if I wanted that) Max Dimensions: 36H x 20-22D x 43W The back of my Jeep is weird theres a light fixture that comes out at the top of the rear hatch and it makes it so I have to cut about 6 inches off my depth because the hight cannot be consistant. If anyone can design something with a slant at the back of the box that'd be awesome. But for now I have to work around it with only 18-20" of Depth (I want to keep about 3 inches from the seat to the subwoofer to account for excursion and amp mounting. I want no higher than 35hz and I want about 15-16sq inches of port and I require about 12cft (3 per subwoofer) I'm going to be running all 4 off about 4000w (give or take, more ore less probably going to run a 2.5k DC or a 3500 AQ.) I plan on having a 14.4v system (270xp DC, 2 XS3400's in the back and 1 XS1200 in the front.) I'm thinking I'll have to make a L slot ported design since theres not enough hight to do a port at the bottom or top. This is going to be a DAILY bumper not a SPL competitor I want to do hair tricks and scare people I dont care about numbers lower = better. So heres my design I'm going to build a big box enclosure and make beauty trim panels to seal it off and im going to use them for 6.5's and tweeters. (going to have 1 6.5 per door, 2 tweets up front and 4 6.5's and 4 tweets in the back.) I cannot slide the box in so the only option is building the box IN my jeep (can anyone recommend material to lay down on the floor of my jeep so I dont get glue etc. on my jeep while I build it. I'm thinking if I can about taking the light fixture in the back off altogether I'll have to scope it out. Heres the Specs: Port length is 17" depth of box is 22" I just dont want to buy all 4 subs and wood if I cannot build a box in my jeep... I want a wall really bad but 5.5 width port seems small? but it's 34.5in tall. any esuggestions recommendations etc/ Edited June 29, 2011 by Sammitch0 Quote Grand Cherokee Team Backwoods Bumpers DC 15" Level 3's /w 4 Coils Pioneer deh4200ub Pioneer 3-ways Pioneer Tweeters Pioneer GM-D9500F Audiopipe 1500.1D @ 14.4v Clarion Equalizer Knuconeptz Kollosus 0ga Knuconpetz Kollosus 4ga Coming Soon: 270xp / xs1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammitch0 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 that's about what it'll look like Quote Grand Cherokee Team Backwoods Bumpers DC 15" Level 3's /w 4 Coils Pioneer deh4200ub Pioneer 3-ways Pioneer Tweeters Pioneer GM-D9500F Audiopipe 1500.1D @ 14.4v Clarion Equalizer Knuconeptz Kollosus 0ga Knuconpetz Kollosus 4ga Coming Soon: 270xp / xs1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohckiller808 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Drop a brace all the way down the middle of the port to brace and even out the air flow. I just built a box like that and if you leave that port open like that it'll flap like crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammitch0 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 What will flap? and di it sound good? u did a wall? Quote Grand Cherokee Team Backwoods Bumpers DC 15" Level 3's /w 4 Coils Pioneer deh4200ub Pioneer 3-ways Pioneer Tweeters Pioneer GM-D9500F Audiopipe 1500.1D @ 14.4v Clarion Equalizer Knuconeptz Kollosus 0ga Knuconpetz Kollosus 4ga Coming Soon: 270xp / xs1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunkie Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) First I just want to say that I don't see a problem with this plan of yours and that this is all just some food for thought. Only issue I can see with the current design is bracing, especially since you want it to play low. Since it is a daily vehicle why not make it symmetrical and put the port in the middle? This would help brace the top of the box. In either case I would use allthread or dowel rods to brace in between the subs. And brace the port. Edited June 29, 2011 by BassJunkie Quote 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammitch0 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Yeah I like that Idea I might redesign for the port to be in the middle with a brace lengthwise in the port like suggest (I'll make port a little bigger compensate. and I'll add cross braces 1 per subwoofer (1 in between each set O o O like that) and 1 accross each beam. I'm not tuning that low I guess Ihave to tune somewhat high since my box isn't big enough. I'm going to be about 37hz can anyone tell me if this will still hit low? I'm assuming power/cone area wise it should still do hair tricks? With a single 18" tuned to 28hz off 1600rms I was doing tiny hair tricks. Quote Grand Cherokee Team Backwoods Bumpers DC 15" Level 3's /w 4 Coils Pioneer deh4200ub Pioneer 3-ways Pioneer Tweeters Pioneer GM-D9500F Audiopipe 1500.1D @ 14.4v Clarion Equalizer Knuconeptz Kollosus 0ga Knuconpetz Kollosus 4ga Coming Soon: 270xp / xs1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohckiller808 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Without bracing the outer port wall will flap. With having the port that skinny and tall it was noticeable that the air was stronger at the top and bottom. When i dropped a board down the middle it evened out the air flow and I did gain .2. And that was after I used rods for bracing. That setup I was doing sub up port up below the line. I'm now doing a wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammitch0 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Okay man thanks for the advice I don't see a problem so just cut a piece of .75 MDF maybe resin it up a bit and stick it irght in the middle? seems like a plan I'm going to be putting the front of the box on last of course so I can do almost anything needed bracing wise. This is going to be a big project my first wall... I hope it goes wall I need all the advice I can get. Quote Grand Cherokee Team Backwoods Bumpers DC 15" Level 3's /w 4 Coils Pioneer deh4200ub Pioneer 3-ways Pioneer Tweeters Pioneer GM-D9500F Audiopipe 1500.1D @ 14.4v Clarion Equalizer Knuconeptz Kollosus 0ga Knuconpetz Kollosus 4ga Coming Soon: 270xp / xs1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohckiller808 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Look through my posts for my build log. It's recent and very similar to your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 kinda like my plans but on smaller scale Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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