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ive had luck using a wire brush for a grinder and get it down to bear shinny metal then use a good primer sealer. most times the reason rust comes back after the area has been cleaned is because it was not propperly sealed atleast in my expiernce

I picked up an MTX Sw1212 powered subwoofer today. This thing sounds amazing. 130 watts, 12" woofer with a passive 12" woofer tuned to 27 hz. Moving the pictures on the walls and my girl got wet from the bass when i showed her haha. Tonight should be good haha.

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Sorry brah, but most of that is not surface rust. ALL of the typical areas seem to be rusted right through, that car must've been driven a lot of miles on salty roads with no in between baths. Might as well scrap it the moment and expensive part fails. That car is done and not worth the cost or effort to repair. That would be a drive as-is car.

It's all gone!

The Celica Build

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Surface rust grind it down to bare then a little past that to get it all and seal it up great. Any through rust needs to be cut and patched. Check areas by poking it with a screwdriver to see if it pops through.

"The strongest reason for people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." -- (Thomas Jefferson)

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Surface rust grind it down to bare then a little past that to get it all and seal it up great. Any through rust needs to be cut and patched. Check areas by poking it with a screwdriver to see if it pops through.

That's what I've been wanting to here. Also, that's what I went and did.

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1994 - Mazda B3000 (Daily/Toy/Show)

2002 - Mazda Protege (Daily)

1995 - Hyundai Accent (R.I.P.)

1984 - Bronco II (Restoration Project)

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