pitbullninja Posted October 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Oh so u hook it to the battery like a amp and ground it the same way? So much easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Oh so u hook it to the battery like a amp and ground it the same way? So much easier yeah exactly. i never thought of it like that LOL. and as far as wiring the amp to the back batt, wire the + and - directly to the batt, with fuse on the + wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbullninja Posted October 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Ok so 5 people now have said "big 3".... What is that haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01VWGREENMACHINE Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 i would go with second batt i have a 10 farad cap and it doesnt do jack with my rf 1500 bdcp heres a diagram of my wiring it doesnt show in the pics that i have removed my cap because i havnt been able to do an update seens how my car is in a tiny garage with the motor and tranny removed ill get update pics and story of that later lol hope this helps Quote http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01VWGREENMACHINE Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Ok so 5 people now have said "big 3".... What is that haha look at my diagram i upgraded all my wires to 0 gauge. i ignored the stock wiring and just added 0 gauge. from alt to bat with 0 gauge and 2 new ground wires from negative to frame and to engine everyone foes it different for different applications check out the link below it will teach you how to do it! this will explain how to do it http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/13280-how-to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/ Quote http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/ 2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor BIG 3 Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm) RF T400.4 RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box) RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2 all stinger wires 200a alternator (SINGER ALT) RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear) KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front) KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK) 120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt 20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt 100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbullninja Posted October 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brownm3 Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 If you have the money I would upgrade the alt but you should be fine with the stock alt and your planned setup. But if you plan to increase the wattage maybe it might be good to think about investing in a new alt. As for the capacitor I agree with everyone else and just go with batteries, kinetik and xs power are the popular choices. I am going with XS Power and there batteries provide the buyer with estimated power ranges. So if you system is 2500 - 3500 total watts they recommend a XS D3400. Kinetik batteries also has a power calculator that gives you suggestion on which of there batteries to purchase http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/powercalc.asp Quote BrownM3 Build Log BrownM3's Youtube Channel "Csbrown147" My Official Feedback Thread (UBL) BrownM3 Jeep Build (UBL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3dreaper Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Ok so 5 people now have said "big 3".... What is that haha look at my diagram i upgraded all my wires to 0 gauge. i ignored the stock wiring and just added 0 gauge. from alt to bat with 0 gauge and 2 new ground wires from negative to frame and to engine everyone foes it different for different applications check out the link below it will teach you how to do it! this will explain how to do it http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/13280-how-to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/ Wow gotta say ya'll are pretty damn respectful... I was afraid to ask that question for a long time and recently i started searching online and learned it that way... Needless to say... Big 3 is a must if you're going to run that high (i would advised it at over 500-600 rms)... I'm planning on doin the big 3 and i'm only running about 400 rms (need to get some readings to be sure though cause this amp is very elusive in the specs....) and as far as the batts go, I personally would get a couple red/yellow tops in there. Quote Those of you who are risking your relationships need to grow up. Bass can't make you sandwhiches. You clearly haven't tossed lunch meat, cheese, and bread in your port yet. Makes a hell of a bologna sandwich salad. Jiggles the balls pretty good too. If i ain't learning, I ain't living. Steve blocked me on YT... I think i irritated him a few years ago.... LOL sorry man I don't have any serious builds goin on... currently i have an Interfire IF-2400b pushing 2 Alphasonic PSW610J's... I'm broke and i don't want my son deaf before he's 2 haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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