scooter99 Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Ok guys and gals, here's what I've got going on. I'm in the middle of a big build on my 2006 Honda Civic ex right now. But when that's all said and done I'm planning to start on my next project which is a 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab. This is going to be a complete restore and build project. Much like the civic, with exception of the fact that the civic didn't need restoring, just did a bunch of performance mods. I've got a while left on the civic build but I've got about 95% of the product in hand. SO that means in the time I'm building it, I want to do two things. Replenish funds (paying off credit cards) and at the same time buy equipment for the next build to build up the stock pile. I posted a thread before a while back in the SPL side of things and I'm not sure that's where I want it to be, plus I was going in a different direction with it. I actually have a couple of goals in mind with this build. 1) I love speakers and love the looks of a well balanced and showy build. 2) I want sound quality as well as to rattle the mirror off the windshield. 3) This is not a daily driver but when I do drive it chances are I'm going to have my kids in it at some point so it needs to be functional, which means NO WALLS and I need to be able to shut off the subs. 4) This thing needs to be clean and I'm really OCD (Cannot stress this enough) about my equipment matching. Don't ask me why but it does literally drive me crazy when it doesn't. There are some other things I'm sure that will come up but those are the basics for now. On to some design thoughts I've got already. Give then fact that I have to be able to take my kids around with me, the truck needs to be functional and with that I mean I need to be able to fit car seats back in the back seat and they need to act as a regular seat would act. With this in mind, I'm sure I'm going to get some quick protest to what I've designed in my head thus far. SUB DESIGN What I want to do is replace the back seat with a sub enclosure. I have taken the measurements of the current seat and I'd like them to stay pretty close to the same measurements. I'm not sure if a few inches in rise is going to matter or not but there will be some things to consider with it. Here are my measurements: 58" wide x 24" deep x 9.5" high. The height is from the floor to the top of the seat. So that's where the seat sits now. I was originally thinking 10's but I don't think I'm going to be able to do that. Given the fact that I have to think about bottom and top panels of wood, as well as padding on top (most likely memory foam) and the fact that whatever is done I want the subs at least an inch counter sunk from the face. This way I can make a cover panel for them, and put a grill over them for the kids swinging feet. Then I don't have to replace subs all the time! LOL! SO given my dimensions, I came up with approximately 7.6 cu ft. Given, again, the dimensions, I'm thinking along the 8" sub line. I'm also thinking 4 of them in a ported enclosure. That would give me about 1.9 cu ft per sub, for air space, displacement, and vent or port area. This is where I get sketchy and would like some help. I SUCK BIG ONE'S at ported enclosures. I'm not sure what size enclosure is good for them, how to figure out what size port to go with etc. I would love to learn and know how to figure it out, so that would be awesome if someone could help walk me through it. As far as equipment for it this is what I'm thinking. I'm on a budget, not a crazy limited budget cause i'll be buying things over time, but I'm not going to sink 10k into this thing. I don't drive it that often, so i can't justify spending that much money. But when I do I want it to pound and sound great! So I was thinking first, along the AudioQue side of things. The only line that they make an 8" sub in is the 2.0 line. They're the Street Duty SDC2.0-8. Doesn't seem to be real beefy and only rates between 250 - 500 watts. But, the price is pretty good at 85.00 a piece. I figure I could run those with 2 AQ1200D's or a single AQ2200D amplifier. The second option I was looking at is a bit more pricey, all the way around, and yet I've hear awesome things about their sub lines. I'm talking about the Sundown SA-8 which is a massive sub for an 8" and while I'm not sure what it rates at cause I can't seem to find any wattage ratings, I'm going to assume it can handle it's fair share. That does make it a little tough to figure out amperage, but I'm thinking again either dual SAZ-1500V.2's or a single SAZ-3500D. Even if I went with an SAZ-2500D I'm sure I'd be good. I'm not sure about the DC line, although I hear all kinds of great things about it, the only 8 offered is the Level 2 and I don't know enough about them really to know. As well not sure about their amps and pricing. So this is my biggest dilemma. If I can get passed the subs portion of this, I can start designing the rest of it as well. I'd like the enclosure to have the four subs, split in the middle by the vent or port. So two subs on one side two on the other, vent or port in the middle. Sorry about all the typing, but I'm hoping that give everyone enough info to maybe help me along with my decisions. Thanks all, and I can't wait to start getting this thing planned out! Appreciate any help ahead of time! Meade, if you check this out, I'd love to get by the shop sometime with the truck and see what your thoughts are as well. I've been by a couple times now, but you weren't there the first time, and the second you were busy getting the DD-1's out! NO WAY I was interrupting that! Made a lot of people happy that day I'm sure! Thanks all! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 I think the room you have would work nicely with 3 10s, 2 12s, or 4 8s. Torre's box calculator says you have about 6 cubes. 3 10s would yeild you the most cone area at about 225 sq inches, followed by 2 12s at about 216 sq inches, followed by 4 8s at about 195 sq inches. You have a ton of options. With the SQ aspect of the build, you got it down... EDIT: With the 16" length on the 2 ports, I'd fire them at the passenger side with at least a 6" gap in between the "wall" and the box. That will direct the port noise away from you and possibly make the car seem louder on the driver side. That is, if you don't want to be loud on the meter. Vice versa if you are trying to be loud on the meter. However, port noise and rattles, if there is any, will be obvious if the port is firing right behind you on the driver side. Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 pull the seat, build box, attach seat to top of box. more space MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Man that's great. I think for simplicity sake I'm probably going to stick with the 8's though. The end result would leave the seat where it is height wise or maybe only an inch higher. I've been browsing the SSA forums and I'm seeing most people with the SA-8's in a 1 cu ft box an ported tuned to 35 - 37 hz. That's all spanish to me of course, but some of the videos I'm seeing, these things pound pretty damn hard! I saw a test of the V2's and they were using a SAZ 2500D on one single 8" sub. THAT'S NUCKIN FUTZ! Right now I'm leanign towards this direction. So if I went with what you have there, that would be about 1.5 cu ft per sub right? That's not too much for an 8? Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Not sure i understand what you mean. I'm talking about replacing the whole bottom portion of the seat with a sub enclosure and rebolting the top part of the seat to the sub enclosure. Is that what you're talking about? Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 I think the room you have would work nicely with 3 10s, 2 12s, or 4 8s. Torre's box calculator says you have about 6 cubes. 3 10s would yeild you the most cone area at about 225 sq inches, followed by 2 12s at about 216 sq inches, followed by 4 8s at about 195 sq inches. You have a ton of options. With the SQ aspect of the build, you got it down... EDIT: With the 16" length on the 2 ports, I'd fire them at the passenger side with at least a 6" gap in between the "wall" and the box. That will direct the port noise away from you and possibly make the car seem louder on the driver side. That is, if you don't want to be loud on the meter. Vice versa if you are trying to be loud on the meter. However, port noise and rattles, if there is any, will be obvious if the port is firing right behind you on the driver side. The height and depth on that are backwards, btw. The height is 9.5" and the depth is 24". Not sure if that makes much difference but just thought you should know. It helps though, so hopefully you don't get me wrong. ThankS! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 I think the room you have would work nicely with 3 10s, 2 12s, or 4 8s. Torre's box calculator says you have about 6 cubes. 3 10s would yeild you the most cone area at about 225 sq inches, followed by 2 12s at about 216 sq inches, followed by 4 8s at about 195 sq inches. You have a ton of options. With the SQ aspect of the build, you got it down... EDIT: With the 16" length on the 2 ports, I'd fire them at the passenger side with at least a 6" gap in between the "wall" and the box. That will direct the port noise away from you and possibly make the car seem louder on the driver side. That is, if you don't want to be loud on the meter. Vice versa if you are trying to be loud on the meter. However, port noise and rattles, if there is any, will be obvious if the port is firing right behind you on the driver side. The height and depth on that are backwards, btw. The height is 9.5" and the depth is 24". Not sure if that makes much difference but just thought you should know. It helps though, so hopefully you don't get me wrong. ThankS! Here you go This box is a little more fine tuned. I threw in a little brancing and whatnot. In reality, you probably won't need much with a height that tall, and a port in the middle, but some 45s on the baffle which the subs are mounted on an the displacement of the "V" shape on the port, since you want to put it in the middle, should take up .3 if not more. Give it a shot! I didn't account for the tuning change with the displacement of the bracing. So if you choose not to add it in, the box is tuned at around 36.5 hertz. If you choose to add it in, add in about another 3" of port. That will also increase your port area per cube, decrease and decrease your volume to about 3.88, a little less than a cube per 8... which is still reasonable. (Ray said, for example; 1 12 = x cubes while 2 12s should be X - 15% volume. I'm sure he has a specific number to represent X, but I haven't been in the game as long as him, so I still use ranges of airspace versus exact airspace. For example, an 8 can work in .8-1 cube ported, a 10 1.5-2.0, a 12 2.5-3.0, a 15 3.0-4.0, an 18 4.0-5.5) Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 What about Alpine Subs? Maybe 4 Alpine SWR-843D 8" (2 ohm load) on an Alpine MRP-2000? I've been hearing great things about the new Type R line. Any thought's there? That would allow me to match all my equipment as well, considering the front stage etc. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 I've got a silly question, well I'm sure it's silly to you guys but not to me. When using a 4 channel amp, is it possible to run, say, the front two channels at a 4 ohm load, and then run the rear channels at a 2 ohm load? Trying to design everything out and I'm trying to get my amps and speakers in order. Not talking sub stage by the way! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 I've got a silly question, well I'm sure it's silly to you guys but not to me. When using a 4 channel amp, is it possible to run, say, the front two channels at a 4 ohm load, and then run the rear channels at a 2 ohm load? Trying to design everything out and I'm trying to get my amps and speakers in order. Not talking sub stage by the way! It is no problem to run each channel at different ohm loads. Type Rs are nice subs. Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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