AmericanLegend Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 I am the proud owner of a 2004 Mazda 3 S hatchback and a pair of Pioneer TS 5102 SPL subwoofers. These are the Champion Edition that are rated for 2500 watts RMS. Due to current space considerations, I will be running only one of them for my daily setup. Since I will be running a single sub for this system, output levels from the enclosure itself is very important. I had been contemplating building a monster vent ported system, but I have built many of these for people and want my enclosure to be a litle novel and unique. My question is, if I put this sub in a transmission line, what will happen to its mechanical power handling? This speaker has a lot of technology built into it (aramide rubber surrounds, assymmetrical double spider, etc) but will it really take an AP 30001D at 1 ohm bridged without a box to support the cone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ineeDBass419 Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 ive seen people say to run half the rms.not sure if its 100% true though Quote xbox 360 gamertag-greenrocks420 Not insulting you or anything, but did you just call us "bloody winging fairies" ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IH8PunkRok Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 there are a couple things to consider with a t-line the biggest is going to be your area. keep it as close to the sd of the sub as possible and that will increase power handling just a bit start with less than half of the rms and just watch it closely. for your situation keep the gain all the way down. get so you can turn the gain up and watch the sub at the same time. adjust a word of caution though once the sub goes past its limits, it will not come back. Quote -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanLegend Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 there are a couple things to consider with a t-line the biggest is going to be your area. keep it as close to the sd of the sub as possible and that will increase power handling just a bit start with less than half of the rms and just watch it closely. for your situation keep the gain all the way down. get so you can turn the gain up and watch the sub at the same time. adjust a word of caution though once the sub goes past its limits, it will not come back. These particular subs should have a pretty high limit though, which is the nice thing about putting one in a T-line. I am not worried about them electrically, but I wouldn't want them unloading on 2000+ watts to the suspension. Amp for this application have not been finalized, but I am leaning towards the AQ2200 or the Brutus 2400. Gain will be rolled in slowly, but I really wouldn't be crushed if I blew one (or both) of these subs doing a hairtrick lol. These subs are overbuilt (about 70lbs) and I wonder whether that isn't wasted weight over a BTL 12 or something. We are going to see how much abuse this particular sub can take, though and hopefully it sounds good in the process! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin - STAPUFT Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 there are a couple things to consider with a t-line the biggest is going to be your area. keep it as close to the sd of the sub as possible and that will increase power handling just a bit start with less than half of the rms and just watch it closely. for your situation keep the gain all the way down. get so you can turn the gain up and watch the sub at the same time. adjust a word of caution though once the sub goes past its limits, it will not come back. From experience, too. Maybe even get a ruler or something similar and measure excursion? ...remembering that as they break in, they will get softer and move further... And like IH8PunkRok said: Quote 12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro Build & Comment Log Un-Interrupted Build LogYouTube Channel Chevy Trailblazer 5.1 Dolby Digital DTS Install You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IH8PunkRok Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 i wonder if those subs wont be great in a tline.. this type of box likes short coils and low excursion Quote -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanLegend Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 i wonder if those subs wont be great in a tline.. this type of box likes short coils and low excursion Xmax for the sub is 11.5mm, which seems short for such a huge motor, but it is an extremely POWERFUL motor to couple to a port. Why not use the largest port factor possible? Btw Fs is 29hz and Qts is .34 but thats because the mechanical damping qms is .76. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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