Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Belt or alternator squealing??


Recommended Posts

Every morning for about the last few weeks when i start my car I hear this loud screeching sound from under my hood that lasts for about 15 seconds, and then stops. I've looked under the hood and it sounds like the alternator (not the belt) is making the noise but I'm not sure. Also, there is no wear at all on the belt and it's pretty tight.

Has anyone had this problem before? Or maybe someone can lead me to fix this problem?

I have a excessive amperage 300 amp alternator if that helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had this exact problem in my truck it was an idler pulley that siezed up.

BUILD LINK: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/112034-2-sundown-18s-98-f-150/page__p__1565972__fromsearch__1#entry1565972

98 Ford F-150
Truck:
37" superswamper tsl radials
16" ion alloy wheels
3" body lift
2" suspension lift
Offbrand brushguard
PIAA driving lights
6000K HID's
System:
2 18" Sundown Nightshaed
Aq3500
Custom Fiberglass box
fosgate T1 6x8 Coxials
bass inferno 2000 watt 4 channel
2 XS power d3100's
0 Gauge

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Every morning for about the last few weeks when i start my car I hear this loud screeching sound from under my hood that lasts for about 15 seconds, and then stops. I've looked under the hood and it sounds like the alternator (not the belt) is making the noise but I'm not sure. Also, there is no wear at all on the belt and it's pretty tight.

Has anyone had this problem before? Or maybe someone can lead me to fix this problem?

I have a excessive amperage 300 amp alternator if that helps

sometimes its the belt not being tight enough i know you says its tight but find the longest stretch of belt and if you can twist it more that 1/4 of the way its to loose. you might also have to tighten it a bit more for that big of an alt.

if its still screeching after tightening i would remove the belt and try to spin the alt with your hands see if it takes alot to turn it.

it also may be another pully 1 way to check for bad bearings is take a long screw driver and place it as close to the bearing as you can and put your ear to the other end of the screw driver you will here it grinding if its bad

take some pics they always help =]

http://www.stevemead...f-system-build/

2001 VW GTI with a 1.8T motor

BIG 3

Pioneer AVH-4200DVD DOUBLE DIN HEAD UNIT 6 - 4 VOLT PREOUTS

RF T1500-BDCP (running at 2 ohm)

RF T400.4

RF T1 D212 x2 (in ported box)

RF 1/0 TO 4 GAUGE distribution block x 2

all stinger wires

200a alternator (SINGER ALT)

RF T2652-S (6.5 MID BASS AND 1" TWEETS in front and rear)

KINETIC HC 800 BATTERY (Front)

KINETIC HC 1200 BATTERY (BACK)

120ft of 1/0 stinger blue and clear matt

20ft of 4 gauge stinger blue and clear matt

30ft of 8 gauge stinger blue and clear matt

100ft of 12 gauge stinger speaker wire black

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have anything that is draining the batts at night? The alt could be heavily stressed at startup causing the belt to slip. The belt/pulley warm up and the batts recover quickly and it stops.

My Astro always did this even with a fresh belt and new idler pulley. I even had Mechman put a full size pulley back on the alt for more belt contact area. Only way it would not happen was if I left my intellicharger on the batts all night (float charge).

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 925 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...