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Hey guys new to the forum here!

I have a 2008 nissan altima sedan. I have a alpine cde-122 deck. 4 guage wiring from bat to amp. I am looking to upgrade. I want the bass to feel strong in the car without the seats down like it would in a suv. What will it take? I just got a free jl13w7 so i have built the enclosure to jl specs. I also bought a hifonics colossus amp to power it and am in the process of upgrading the big three. I will also be upgrading all wiring to 0 guage. And a second battery, plus h/o alternator. In the future will (2) 12" fi btl's make the car sound good with the seats up? Thanks for the advice1

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That's hard to determine, honestly it is totally on the box build and the power the colossus is producing. It won't really sound like an SUV because it takes less power to make an SUV sound loud than it does a trunk car but if done correctly that one JL on 1000w should be strong. Is the box you built sealed or ported? If ported what is it tuned to?

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collossus too much power for w7. w7 go poof.

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n8.. not with a dd-1 which i have:) and i dont mind my seats down.. but i want there to be good spl when i have a car full of people ya know? its ported and tuned to 34.59hz. i guess another question is.. would a colossus be enough to power one 12 fi btl or 2 fi bl's? (just thinking down the road)

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collossus too much power for w7. w7 go poof.

N8ball2013 is absolutely right. And yes, having a dd-1 is essential in being able to properly set your gains. But that means absolutely nothing when the sub that's being powered is unable to handle the rms that the amp puts out.

Edited by Mile High Guy

Headunit - Alpine 9857

Mids & Highs - T165,T1692

Mids & Highs Amp - T400-4

Subs - 2 12" DC Audio Level 3 M2s

Sub Amp - T1500-1bdcp

Alternator - MechMan 220a

Wiring - 1/0ga XS Power

Batteries - 2 Optima Yellow Tops

Read the fucking manual. Jesus Christ.

I dunno about that Steve...

Chuck Norris doesnt even do push-ups, he just pushes the earth down.

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well if thats the case.. i can sell the dub7 i got for free and get some other twelves.. ive been looking at 2 12's either fi or dc.. not trying to start a versus thread its more so finding two subs that can handle the output of the amp.. and i get confused with amps and there output with this impedance vs that impedance if you know what i mean.

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Ya when your learning about things like that it can be confusing but no worries man that's what this forum is for. Just read and learn as much as you can so you can make an informed decision on whatever type of product you buy. Read up on impedance loads, subwoofer wiring diagrams, etc or whatever else you want to learn about and also understand and know the specs of your patrticular amp so you know how much power at a certain ohm loads the amp puts out. Then you can figure out the sub wiring configuration which will best suit your desired setup.

Edited by Mile High Guy

Headunit - Alpine 9857

Mids & Highs - T165,T1692

Mids & Highs Amp - T400-4

Subs - 2 12" DC Audio Level 3 M2s

Sub Amp - T1500-1bdcp

Alternator - MechMan 220a

Wiring - 1/0ga XS Power

Batteries - 2 Optima Yellow Tops

Read the fucking manual. Jesus Christ.

I dunno about that Steve...

Chuck Norris doesnt even do push-ups, he just pushes the earth down.

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And welcome to the forum!

Headunit - Alpine 9857

Mids & Highs - T165,T1692

Mids & Highs Amp - T400-4

Subs - 2 12" DC Audio Level 3 M2s

Sub Amp - T1500-1bdcp

Alternator - MechMan 220a

Wiring - 1/0ga XS Power

Batteries - 2 Optima Yellow Tops

Read the fucking manual. Jesus Christ.

I dunno about that Steve...

Chuck Norris doesnt even do push-ups, he just pushes the earth down.

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