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no, I just hadent screwed it down or glued it yet, I just got done glueing it up and screwing it down, im going to be building a new one this fall probally but first im gonna try my hand at fiberglassing with this box after I get some other things with the ride taken care of like amping mids and highs and battery and alternator...581061_384641831577953_100000964175123_1062198_1691611966_n.jpg

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579372_385246054850864_100000964175123_1063579_1022273195_n.jpg547362_385220538186749_100000964175123_1063409_361203917_n.jpg582167_385244561517680_100000964175123_1063572_1993801924_n.jpgalright so i got the subs out of the old box and was getting ready to screw them down and noticed my carpet in back was soaked, ive had trouble with it getting wet through the rear barn doors but thought i fixed that and it hasnt rained in 4 days, so I started ripping the rear of my suburban apart to find the problem....rear heater core type deal is leaking im assuming sence the rear ac unit is totally disconnected... so now im in the process of ripping all this shit out and i cut one of the coolant lines...bye bye coolant.... now im stuck waiting till monday because no parts stores are open here on sundays.....fuckin minnesota....pics for proof coming...
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Great job on the build so far man. I love that body style chevy. I got a '97 Tahoe and I honestly don't ever plan on getting rid of it. Been in the family since '97 then I bought it from my father in late 2008. I plan on upgrading my system soon but back to the subject. Props to you for doing everything yourself. I'm tuned in for this build. Keep up the good work.

-James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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thanks james, I love doing this stuff even when i get pissed because I messed up and did somthing stupid like cut a coolant line, im just glad we have 2 cars so my wife can still get to work and doesnt kill me when this kind of stuff happens lol I want to do a complete custom rear interior eventually so I guess its a good thing I got the experience disassembling this thing now lol. I love this body style too, they just look super clean to me. My burbans sitting at 207 thousand and still runs like a dream as long as routine maintenence is done it seems like these things run forever lol.( I looked at your garage and noticed yours has 280 thousand O.O they are amazing arent they lol)

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I look at it as most of the time when I get pissed while working on something that means I'm learning something haha. Anyway cutting that coolant probably wasn't such a bad thing as you said you got the experience of disassembling the rear end and not only that but you took some weight out and made a little more room that you might be able to use for something else. Maybe a rear battery or just a spot to hide wire? I am assuming you completely took the rear air system out though. Rear air is nice if you are riding with your family on a long trip but other than that I'm not a huge fan of it. Just something else to pull current and more problems in the long run. It is a good thing the wife has her own car though cause I can imagine she might not like having the Burban torn down due to our audio addiction. I just rolled over 282K miles yesterday and it runs like a sewing machine (knock on wood). Regular maintenance every 3k miles, tranny/rear end every 7.5k miles, rotate tires every 2k miles. They really are amazing trucks.

-James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Amazingly enough she is fairly supportive in my audio addiction, she gives me alot of shit for it especially when she see's reciets and billing invoices but in the end, she is out their helping me tear the car apart calling me a dumb ass while ripping out my side panels and finding hidden screws for me when i get frusterated lol im a lucky man haha. I did completely remove the rear air system except for the duct that runs through the roof because I dont feel like dropping my whole head liner untill I have enough second skin sound deadener laying around to coat the whole roof all at once, at that point the rear duct will come out. As for now im stuck waiting untill tomorrow to fixe my lines and get the subs installed again, My wife had actually suggested the battery(s) could/should go under the rear panel when i get them and decide it is time to install them. and that would allow me to sufficiently hide all of my wireing.

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You got a keeper there man. Lucky to have a woman who actually will help you with your work and take over when the frustration kicks in haha. My woman will listen to my small little setup with the bass all the way down (-6) but she is still getting use to it tho. I ask her what she was going to do when I upgraded systems and she went to go pull a pack of ear plugs out of her purse lol. The pack of ear plugs now resides in my glove box for when I turn my system on. I am with you on not dropping the headliner until you get the second skin to coat it. Are you taking the coolant lines out all the way up to the front or where they start at? I am also guessing you and your wife are perfectionists like myself? haha. Make sure you post up some pics when you start installing :popcorn:

Got a questions for you though man. I am stuck between these 2 options and wondered what you opinion might be. Not trying to highjack the thread but since you have almost the same vehicle as myself I was just wondering you opinion

1. Take headliner out, sound deaden, re-cover headliner (since the material is now sagging a bit), then reinstall headliner

or

2. Take headliner completely out, get roof bedlined, then build pods for my overhead lights and roof compartments, and if I did this I would have to probably do some fiberglass work for the sunvisors and light pods.

Thanks,

-James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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for now I am just going to loop the lines in the back of the car right below where they came up through and patch the wholes with some expanding foam so I can easily cut it out later if need be and run wires up through their (sense the wholes are already their I may as well utilize them and I dont offroad my vehicle so the wires would be safe tied up to the top of the frame of course this is all just an idea) I dont take it as highjacking my thread I am happy to offer my opinion if people want it, if I were you I would put on second skin and cover the headliner (I personally like the look of suede) and then replace lights accordingly if you wanted to do a color theme or what not, I would also consider possibly building speaker pods into the roof, I know the back of mine has 4 by 8's or some odd size like that already their but I planned on retro fitting a set or a couple sets of 6.5's or 5.25's back their in their place and running some other tweeters different places in the headliner. just my ideas though.

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Good thinking on running the wires through the coolant line holes. You could cut the line right above and below the floor but leave enough rubber hose to protect your wires from the sharp metal on the floor. Expanding foam would work great to seal it up if you didn't want to fiberglass it. The back speakers really are an odd size 4x8 or 6x9 but making some fiberglass pods for 5.25 or 6.5 speakers IMO would be better than the oblong speakers. Plus I like the look of round speakers better. When I do upgrade my system I was thinking about clipping the rear speakers and just having my door speakers cause the bass may cancel out the rear speakers. Kinda like the pressure from the bass might keep the speakers from moving like they should so it would inhibit the sound coming from them. I am honestly not sure on that but sitting in the back seat on my truck at full tilt I cant really hear my rear speakers. If money wasnt so tight I would fiberglass my door panels and put 2 or 3 5.25's ans a super tweet in each door. Maybe I'll come into some money and i can actually get my Tahoe sounding and looking competition worthy.

As for my headliner that is also what I was thinking and I also like the look of a quality suede in a car. I'm really trying to go for an all stock look but have it looking very clean at the same time. I love a clean all stock look. I have been trying to work on my interior and upgrade my electrical but being on such a tight budget just makes the process a little longer. I will appreciate it even more since I had to work for it. Thanks for the opinion man.

Best Regards,

-James

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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my rear doors and my rear roof speakers are all blown (just deteriation from time i assume sense the front ones were blown too and when i replaced them it looked like the paper cone had just fallen apart over time) but even with my bass goin hard on tech n9ne delusional(one of the videos I posted above) you can hear the rear roof speakers cutting in and out slightly.

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