95Burbancalldsnow

Ok. Thank you both i will be going lvl 4 recone with the ar.

no dc rep can help me out here?

So im going to be reconeing the lvl 3 15s i have. My first question is if i upgrade to level 4 soft parts will the power handling capabilities be the same as a level 4? If yes can i order xl recones and have the same power handling as an xl? (Obviously with less motor force?) My next question is what benefits (specifically please) does the ar cone upgrade provide and is it possible to get a picture of a 15 with the ar upgrade? Thank you

Hey, i was wondering if some of you dc audio guys could check out my post http://www.stevemead...snt-cutting-it/ and possibly provide some feedback/insight thank you

wrong forums sorry mods please delete

I personally perfer my G30 .45 but I do have to say that my .40 springfeild is alot easier to carry due to its size and weight but still has sufficient stopping power at MOST self defense encounter distances

I am extremely angry....i only got one decal........i want a full refund and my decals!!......naw im just playin the decal was a bonus all i really wanted was the dd-1 and the test tone cd thanks steve!

Discount is Idk about free shipping upgrade I can hope though lol

Just ordered my dd-1!! Can't wait to use it and see if I can get much louder with proper tuning

yes I should of added that Im not one of the guys that runs it for 10k+ miles either like some people do, I change mine like said above^^ every 5-6 thousand or every 3-4 months which evercomes first

amsoil everything here, full synth high milage formula works great

unless they changed it from 95-99 it should be 7 t10 bulbs with wedge base twist locks the other size is t1.5 bulbs for the "idiot lights"

9k to 56283 I checked your site no dealer listed

Thanks again Hugh

So when constructing the port would it be best to center it from left to right and use the bottom as one of the port walls, or would it be better to center it in the rear facing panel and brace it internally? Am I just making this more complicated then it needs to be?

Though I've felt like an idiot today trying to build my first box for subs I'm with the other guy(s) being that it worked fine until you replaced they tranny I would go through and double and triple check your engine frame and bodie grounds

thanks hugh, people around me dont seem to think im a dumb person so I dont understand why I cant seem to grasp all of this lol

will do, thank you for your effort! can anyone else chime in on this and let me know what they think would work best several different box ideas thrown around on this post now, so opinions and ideas?!

max width im willing to give up is 44 max depth is 28 leaving about 4-5 inches between box port and rear doors and max height im willing to go is 22 inches but my windows on the back doors of my suburban are at roughly 18.5 inches and i heave heard you want to try and keep them below the window line dont know how true that is though, im trying mainly for "jaw dropping bass" then I am SQ (i know 1500 watts for jaw dropping is a joke compared to some of the system on this forum lol) so thats why I was trying to tune around 32hz, if my subs over power my mid ranges for now then im ok with that it just gives me an excuse to buy better speakers and another or multiple amps lol. Again I have read and I dont know how true it is that subs up port back is the way to go in suburbans and tahoes so I thought I would run it like that. I was planning on running a slot port design hence why my port was much longer then tall is I was going to do a common chamber box subs up and the slot port along the bottom of the box facing the rear doors, but I do like your box/port design much better then my Idea with the port on the bottom seems like that seems like yours would transfer sound better.

Thank you john, that would have a port volume of ruffly 18^2 per cu.ft of box volume thats only 4 over compared to my original design which was 7^2 under, is going over on port volume better then going under? or should i really try and keep it as close to 12=14^2 as possible? not trying to nit pick I appreciate you doing that for me john I just know im only going to have the money right now to do this once and want to make sure I get as close to "perfect" as possible for a first shot.

thanks michigancapri92, ok so I reworked the box design based on the information ive recieved here let me know if this seems better to you guys or if I should just give up and try and have some one else design my box (which I dont really want to do I want to learn this stuff for myself), thank you all for your knowledge and time, I know some people take these forums and the people and information they can provide for granted but I really do appreciate the help and knowledge you guys(gals?) can provide me. Here is my re-done design...

so is that 12-14^2 figure based upon net or gross volume of he box? I am assuming net because it takes into account the displacement of the woofer and port itself, but please correct me if I am wrong. Is that 12-14^2 just a general rule for all ported boxes?

Like I said first box build lol I was obviously in the completely wrong direction :/ thank you all

Thank you mbdblue I was making a dumb mistake, and rev I really do apologize the more I read that the rider I sound