Grounds.

[finkster]

The spot with least resistance LOL.

I would ground to a rubber dildo if it had less resistance than a run of 4/0 wiring.

Do like AMI said and use a DMM to figure it out.

[JasonJones]

Silly noobs lol

Anyway, I ground all over the truck oh no I must be a noob????

Not even close, lol just take a minute and look over your entire vehicle guess what you see ground everywhere, wait what? These car company must be creating ground loops like crazy huh??? Nope

Best thing to do is test a ground with a volt meter to see if it is a good location. I have my amps grounded in a few difference spots but all grounds are good locations that I choose cuz I checked with a DMM. Shortest ground clean bare metal is best, same spot isn't necessary, if you can well then it is better cuz you have a smaller chance to have a bad ground.

Not saying you're a "noob" but comparing factory grounds to a ground that would complete a multi-thousand watt circuit isn't a very good example. With my statement of grouping grounds or at least having them share the same point of contact is in reference to avoiding a differential in ground paths.

Your statement of using a DMM is definitely the best method but never the less you can still get a "good" ground on two different points of conact and still create a loop.

Again not undermining your particular application but just saying to rather be safe than sorry right?

[AMI CUSTOMS]

Grounding at two different points in a vehicle for two lets say 4k size amps isn't gonna make a bit of difference if both ground points are of equal resistance. Ground loops are no joke but if there is a difference in resistance if resistance is equal at both points you won't create a loop just won't happen.

[AMI CUSTOMS]

And the absolute best place to ground is at the battery neg. but most everyone should be aware of that!!!!

[JasonJones]

And the absolute best place to ground is at the battery neg. but most everyone should be aware of that!!!!

Exactly. The way I read your previous post was that any ground is good as long as it reads as a good ground. Some people may interpret this in the way that if the reading from their DMM is an acceptable value then they're ok, but that's simply not true.

The way I've always done it in applications where additional batteries are used is to first do the big 3, then run from front battery negative to rear battery negative, ground the rear battery to the frame of the vehicle in which then shares the same ground as the front battery due to the big 3, then ground ALL amps off the batteries in the rear.

My main point is to not ground a battery directly to the frame then out of lazyness ground a 4channel or something to that likeness to a "good" ground say a tower strut, or rear seat bolt. But then again everyone should understand that grounding to OEM bolt locations can sometimes be poor because the terminal won't get true contact.

I go by the golden rule of making my own grounding points and avoiding OEM where possible. Because of course it could read as a good point but the minute you try to thread that bolt through it may either loosen or bounce around and get poor contact.