Jump to content
 
 

JasonJones

Members
  • Content Count

    787
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

47 Excellent

About JasonJones

  • Rank
    140db

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

9059 profile views
  1. Posted some of these along with headlights/tail lights over in the non-car audio section but I wanted to repost these here as well. The parts came out of a 2008 Chevrolet Suburban 5.3L but will fit 2007-2014 Chrevrolet Tahoe/Suburbans and GMC Yukon/Yukon XL's. The kicks are well used, as you can see in the pictures. They were trimmed to house some RF T2's so that is why they're a little nibbled on the inner ring. However, they are 100% functionally sound. I'm sure if you throw a coat of paint on them they'd look brand new. Price: $75 + shipping. Q-Logic kicks: https://www.qlogicenclosures.com/products/q-logic-q-forms-ql-k1017c The alts are Singer powder coated black with red banding and boast the chrome Singer S pulley cover. The PCM controlled is a 275a and the internally regulated are 350a. They have not been installed since 2014 and have been getting knocked around in a corner of my garage so the powder coat is a bit worse for wear. These alts were connected with a DC Power Inc. Quad bracket. The bracket also has some chips but is 100% structurally sound. I do not have the serpentine belt but I do have the bracket, the harness to trigger the 3 internally regulated alts, the idler pulleys that came with the bracket, as well as extras that I used to take up some tension in attempt to eliminate squeak. I am looking to sell all the alts together and would offer a discount if purchased with the bracket. Price: $800 for all four alts, $1,000 for the alts+bracket shipped. $250 for bracket alone. These prices reflect the physical appearance of the alts. I also have a non-functioning DD M4a that I'd be looking to take offers on. I'm more than likely just going to be sending it out for repair for future personal use but I figure I may as well get some offers. The amp has a blown MOSFET on the output supply section and has some noticeable scratches on the exterior. With that being said, throw an offer and if it's worthwhile I may accept. Amp link: http://ddaudio.com/product-archive/amplifiers/m-series/m4a/
  2. So I've had some parts laying around collecting dust that I'm looking to get rid of. All parts came out of a 2008 Chevrolet Suburban 5.3L. Therefore all parts will fit 2007-2014 Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL. The lights are only 9 months old and are in great condition and come with all working bulbs and have no damage. These lights are an easy plug-and-play setup and take around 30 minutes to install all of them. Price: $275 + shipping for the head lights and tail lights. (Mods, I apologize, somehow I boneheaded out and didn't put the paper in front of the headlights/tail lights. If needed, let me know and I'll add). Headlights link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BQF7A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Tail lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZYCFGA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The kicks are well used, as you can see in the pictures. They were trimmed to house some RF T2's so that is why they're a little nibbled on the inner ring. However, they are 100% functionally sound. I'm sure if you throw a coat of paint on them they'd look brand new. Price: $75 + shipping. Q-Logic kicks: https://www.qlogicenclosures.com/products/q-logic-q-forms-ql-k1017c The alts are Singer powder coated black with red banding and boast the chrome Singer S pulley cover. The PCM controlled is a 275a and the internally regulated are 350a. They have not been installed since 2014 and have been getting knocked around in a corner of my garage so the powder coat is a bit worse for wear. These alts were connected with a DC Power Inc. Quad bracket. The bracket also has some chips but is 100% structurally sound. I do not have the serpentine belt but I do have the bracket, the harness to trigger the 3 internally regulated alts, the idler pulleys that came with the bracket, as well as extras that I used to take up some tension in attempt to eliminate squeak. I am looking to sell all the alts together and would offer a discount if purchased with the bracket. Price: $800 for all four alts, $1,000 for the alts+bracket shipped. $250 for bracket alone. These prices reflect the physical appearance of the alts. I also have a non-functioning DD M4a that I'd be looking to take offers on. I'm more than likely just going to be sending it out for repair for future personal use but I figure I may as well get some offers. The amp has a blown MOSFET on the output supply section and has some noticeable scratches on the exterior. With that being said, throw an offer and if it's worthwhile I may accept. Amp link: http://ddaudio.com/product-archive/amplifiers/m-series/m4a/
  3. Shit wish I had seen this sooner... Hopefully you resolved the problem but here is what resolved the all the service lights for me... Check your brake fluid. Mine was low, and yes, it caused all those fucking lights to go off and do other random shit.
  4. I'd like to know more about this "1990's station wagon" to be completely honest. Drawing close to 500a of current off a stock alt for any period of time while maintaining over 13 on 4 unknown make batteries? More information would be appreciated to understand the whole situation. OP just remember, it is all in the math. It is not opinion, it is fact. And the fact is if you wish to supply your amps with what they need current wise to output their maximum potential than you need supplied current, regardless of where it comes from. And the fact is 500a of current is a considerable amount to be maintained primarily by batteries over any period of time. Furthermore people have stated fact that if you are to run a stock alternator with multiple batteries that will pick up the slack of having low alternator output charging then the result will be alternator and or battery failure. You cannot expect an 80a alternator to charge 4 batteries that have significant draw. The alternator will constantly be charging and the batteries will constantly not be topped off over an extended period. The primary use of batteries should not be to supply your system over an extended period, but instead should just be used to filter the dips when your system pulls a significant draw. I believe you're thinking of this as "which one is better", which the answer is both.
  5. B. Get videos up now! P.S. still got those Singers if you're upgrading your power still like you said. Different phone number now so PM me if you're interested.
  6. It's all the little things in this build that make it awesome. Like others said its the attention to details that are great but you go beyond that. You can tell you're a veteran because your placement and fitment is immaculate. I wish I was on that level... I try my best but it looks like I just threw the shit in by the end of it. Keep em' coming boss!
  7. Ok... I guess when I "cleaned" the truck I put it back in the house. I will get those to you ASAP. However, I can assure you it is LITERALLY BNIB.
  8. Thank you Ghost and sure Ken. I'll get them in a sec. I'm on the road right now so they'll be shitty and without paper.
  9. Have you tried metering with seats down vs seats up? Reason why I'm asking is I'm debating 4th vs flat wall with port along the roof both behind the C and am just curious to the difference the port firing into the seats would yield.
  10. Brother. You have struck a chord indeed! Honestly I don't think guys and girls can be friends unless they're fucking. Friend zone is an urban myth for sluts.
  11. What's wrong with having a female friend that you're not fucking nor want to fuck? Do you even have a penis? Because that's the most girly shit ive ever heard. Haha. Yes.
  12. What's wrong with having a female friend that you're not fucking nor want to fuck?
×
×
  • Create New...