ChillMasterWill Posted April 21, 2012 Report Posted April 21, 2012 here's the deal, I have a Kinetik HC1400 up front along w/the big 3 (I call it the big 4 because) I have Kicker hyperflex 1/0 Gauge wire, a run from my battery positive to my alternator positive (it's my OE 80A), I have a run from my battery negative to the chassis & one run from my battery negative to the engine block, my positive run goes all the all the way to the rear to a dist block then from there to my XS Power D3400, my ground is grounded to the chassis (paint ground off to match the ground up front) my "dilemma" is on a good cold morning when I crank up I'm sitting at 14.9 once warm it still floats between 13.8 - 14.2 and at full tilt competing in Bass Boxing 30 second runs, the lowest I see is 12.6 no matter what I'm playing, after the bass stops it goes right back to the 13.8 - 14.2 depending on how hot the alty is, so I have good voltage right now, I'm trying to justify spending money on a H/O alty($400) & another XS Power D3400($260) how much "more" will I gain by adding each or just one, will it be worth it or do I just "leave well enough alone" because for what I have I'm still shocked at the output, like for another $600 - $700 or so will this "up" my voltage another 1 or 2 volts like instead of my voltage dropping to 12.6 at full tilt will it only drop to like 13.8 - 14.2 or not drop at all, plus I have an issue w/aftermarket alty's reliability my OE's doing good I don't want to buy an aftermarket alty & be worried about it quitting & other XS Power D3400's easier to just add to help w/reserve amperage, I have 4 SKAR VVX 15's D2's run down to 1 ohm on the amp, the amp's rated to do 3200 x 1 @ 2 but it's running at 1 ohm x 1, if any of you guys have some input good or bad, let me hear it, thanks.... William - Metter,Ga. Dad, Self Installer/Fabricator & Repair Tech, Weightlifter, Motivator, Team SKAR Audio Captain, Team Deadly Hertz Georgia Leader 99 Toyota 4Runner SR5, "Rolling Thunder" Daily Driven, No Wall, C-Pillar Build, BASS LIFE! 2K16 SBN MECA Park and Pound DB3 Champion 2K16 SBN ISPLL Real SPL Class F Champion Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Kenwood eXcelon KDC X498, Clarion EQ, Knukonceptz RCA's The Big 3, Sky High Car Audio OFC & Kicker Hyperflex Silver Tinned 1/0 Gauge Singer 340a Alt, Northstar NSB-AGM31, SMSAGM480, 12 NessCaps Super Caps Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty Line Driver, The Oval Port Tuned To 31 Hz, CNC Machined 4 SKAR ZVXv2 D2 15's, 2 SKAR SK-4500.1's, 4 SKAR PAX 6.5's, 2 SKAR LP-80.4's MEMBER OF THE YEAR 2013If you don't have any haters, get some, best motivation there is...
rubbernutz1 Posted April 21, 2012 Report Posted April 21, 2012 id try just adding a voltage controller to up the voltage a lil b4 dropping more $$ on a new alt and batts. i mean hell man slammin 150's and only going down to 12.6 aint bad at all. boost it up to like 13 when its hammering and it may help ya out. just seems a bit cheaper to try that b4 buying the good stuff
AA98hoe Posted April 21, 2012 Report Posted April 21, 2012 Adding another battery will put stress on your stock alternator...id buy a high out alt at least 270.then get the mechman avm to up voltage if you want...add another run of pos 0g and a neg run frm front battery to back it will help voltage also TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.