sps1989 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 the 4 gauge doesnt help any. and you would actually need 2/0 welding cable to roughly equal 1/0 car audio wire. turn all bass boosts off or all the way down on both radio and amp. if there is a sub volume option on the radio, turn it all the way up. and if using the remote knob, turn it all the way up as well. you will probably not get the full 2250 from the amp with the wire you are currently using but you should possibly have enough to move the subs some. just set it to the maximum non clipping setting until you get better wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 (edited) the 4 gauge doesnt help any. and you would actually need 2/0 welding cable to roughly equal 1/0 car audio wire. turn all bass boosts off or all the way down on both radio and amp. if there is a sub volume option on the radio, turn it all the way up. and if using the remote knob, turn it all the way up as well. you will probably not get the full 2250 from the amp with the wire you are currently using but you should possibly have enough to move the subs some. just set it to the maximum non clipping setting until you get better wire. WHAT??? no, dude... no. and you don't need to turn the sub level up any on a pioneer. i have always left mine at 0. alpines you need to turn all the way up.adjust your subsonic just below the tuning frequency of your box. it's there to protect your subs, use it. put bass boost to 0. it might be boosting a different frequency than 40hz. so when you test at 40hz, you get a good set point. but then when you play music that has content where the bass boost has boosted, you get clipping. is the remote gain all the way up when you tune? turn the LPF down to around 80hz. thats more preference but it will help with clipping a little bit. oh, and yes, that power wire is definitely hurting you. just to test it though, play a tone and turn it up to be just shy of clipping and then measure input voltage at the amp. Edited April 29, 2012 by skittlesRgood Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 listen to this man... Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcincy Posted April 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 the 4 gauge doesnt help any. and you would actually need 2/0 welding cable to roughly equal 1/0 car audio wire. turn all bass boosts off or all the way down on both radio and amp. if there is a sub volume option on the radio, turn it all the way up. and if using the remote knob, turn it all the way up as well. you will probably not get the full 2250 from the amp with the wire you are currently using but you should possibly have enough to move the subs some. just set it to the maximum non clipping setting until you get better wire. WHAT??? no, dude... no. and you don't need to turn the sub level up any on a pioneer. i have always left mine at 0. alpines you need to turn all the way up.adjust your subsonic just below the tuning frequency of your box. it's there to protect your subs, use it. put bass boost to 0. it might be boosting a different frequency than 40hz. so when you test at 40hz, you get a good set point. but then when you play music that has content where the bass boost has boosted, you get clipping. is the remote gain all the way up when you tune? turn the LPF down to around 80hz. thats more preference but it will help with clipping a little bit. oh, and yes, that power wire is definitely hurting you. just to test it though, play a tone and turn it up to be just shy of clipping and then measure input voltage at the amp. I'm a little confused on the remote knob. The manual says it's a bass boost/remote gain. So which one is it? And thanks for all the input guys.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 it SHOULD be a remote gain. i would be very much surprised if they started using remote bass boost. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcincy Posted April 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 it SHOULD be a remote gain. i would be very much surprised if they started using remote bass boost. Ok. My previous amp (PPI) has a remote bass boost know at a certain chosen frequency. I was using that knob with the crescendo as a bass boost knob. so does the remote knob override the settings on the actual amp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 oh, no no. dont use a knob from another amp. ive heard of amps smoking just because of that. others claimed that to not be possible but why ever risk it? the remote gain knob will only cut "power". it never adds. so 100% on the remote = whatever the gain at the amp is set to. so i pointed out some smaller problems with your setup and they should be addressed regardless. but it sounds like this knob is your main problem. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcincy Posted April 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 oh, no no. dont use a knob from another amp. ive heard of amps smoking just because of that. others claimed that to not be possible but why ever risk it? the remote gain knob will only cut "power". it never adds. so 100% on the remote = whatever the gain at the amp is set to. so i pointed out some smaller problems with your setup and they should be addressed regardless. but it sounds like this knob is your main problem. thanks skittles. i typed that wrong, i was using a bass remote knob previously with my ppi amp. i am not using the ppi remote bass knob with the crescendo. but you did clarify what the knob does now and how it should be set and used. what about this phase setting? i have never seen this on an amp before. and like you said i think, should i keep the bass boost on 0? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sps1989 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Bass boost on zero. And don't change the phase. You only need it when you are strapping two together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 you can look up a 180* phase switch on google. look for some pics. basically the higher you turn up the phase, the larger the delay is in sound to the speaker. its really nothing you need to worry about. it wont make the sub louder. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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