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Autotek SM2-1200 Amp Questions


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either wiring method will yield the same amount of power. but personally i would bridge it like in that picture you just posted. because the way you have it wired now, if a song has (for example) more bass on the left channel than the right channel, then the sub wired to the left channel will be moving more than the right one. which is typically unwanted if you have a box where both subs share the same air space.

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I appreciate the reply there kranny. This was going to be my wiring project for tomorrow and I wanted to make sure I knew what I was doing. I will go off that diagram tomorrow and wire them accordingly then bridge it at the amp. I wish I would have wired it like this first so I wouldn't have had to put two terminals on my box. I could have gone with the clean look and installed only one haha. Thanks again man.

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Well before I headed off to work this morning I got everything wired to 1200w x 1chan @ 4ohms. Well it turned out to be 3.7ohms at the speakers and the amp. After work I may take my subs out and try and get some actual wiring pics but I grabbed a few pics right before I left this morning. I can't really tell much difference by ear actually sounds just as loud which is good imo. Wired it just like the diagram above. Seems just as harsh on my electrical though. Isn't a higher Ohm load suppose to be a tad easier on the electrical system than a lower Ohm load?

IMG_20120529_092254.jpg

IMG_20120529_092417.jpg

IMG_20120529_092550.jpg

Thanks for reading,

-James

Edited by 252chevyboyz

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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