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Posted

What's up everyone? I'm working on my new build and I'm going to be running 3 RE5000x1's and 3 RE high amps (I don't know what sizes yet). Vehicle is a 2011 Toyota Tundra

According to "Wire/Fuse Guide", I'll need to run 3+ runs of 2/0 positive and negative. Is that correct?

If I use 2/0 welding cable, will I still need 3 runs? or will I be sufficient with 1 to 2 runs of +/-?

Also, can I ground the batteries to the frame of the truck? or will it be better to run the negatives back to the front?

Before I get told that I'll need alternators and batteries: I have a Mechman 320 amp coming in as well as several XS3100s.

Posted

i am wondering the same thing i am not buying the same amps n speakers as u but i am putting alot of power in my back.... and i have welding lead so i i would guess it would be the same as running regular car audio wire.

whats wrong with fat chicks? they are like mopeds, as long as your friends dont see you riding it, they are a blast! hahah

I am dumb as a stump. I live in the south and we are all dumb here.

Posted

one or two is fine because the engine bay isnt delivering all the power your amps take. a lot of it is done from the rear battery bank. you only need as much wire as the alt and front battery can supply.

definitely run your grounds front to back but an extra chassis ground is good too.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Posted

sorry to hijack your thread, so your saying 2 runs of 2/0 wire back to the other batterys then from them to the amps?

whats wrong with fat chicks? they are like mopeds, as long as your friends dont see you riding it, they are a blast! hahah

I am dumb as a stump. I live in the south and we are all dumb here.

Posted

yep

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Posted

one or two is fine because the engine bay isnt delivering all the power your amps take. a lot of it is done from the rear battery bank. you only need as much wire as the alt and front battery can supply.

definitely run your grounds front to back but an extra chassis ground is good too.

Alright cool thanks. Looks like I'm going to do that than. Would you have drilled a whole or try and shove 'em through a rubber boot that has stock wires going through them?

I appreciate all the quick responses guys.

Posted

i would be shocked if you could find a boot that you could fit that much wire through. i drilled through the firewall and made my own grommet to protect the wire.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Posted

one or two is fine because the engine bay isnt delivering all the power your amps take. a lot of it is done from the rear battery bank. you only need as much wire as the alt and front battery can supply.

definitely run your grounds front to back but an extra chassis ground is good too.

Alright cool thanks. Looks like I'm going to do that than. Would you have drilled a whole or try and shove 'em through a rubber boot that has stock wires going through them?

I appreciate all the quick responses guys.

With a truck you can run it along the frame rail and pop it up through a hole in the floor wherever is good for you. Drill a couple holes, use grommets, pass the wire through the floor then seal it with some silicone and you're good to go.

Posted

Thanks guys, about to get to work lol. I hope Autozone or other automotive places have grommets for sale.

Would welding cable actually work better than normal power wire? I never found a verdict on that.

Posted

some say it is better and some say it isnt used for cars, ive used it in about 3 cars and never had any problems with it but i have not ran more than 2 runs of it. i would say as far as exterior it would be better as it is welding cable and made for more rrought shit to happen to it than a car audio cable... my .02

whats wrong with fat chicks? they are like mopeds, as long as your friends dont see you riding it, they are a blast! hahah

I am dumb as a stump. I live in the south and we are all dumb here.

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