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SmallTruk

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Everything posted by SmallTruk

  1. Not to be a dick but if you have never been able to look on a board and see something blown or burnt then you obviously haven't worked on many things. I'm kinda leaning that way already. Was just trying to avoid paying out the ass for shipping. Been wanting to run all RF amps, I guess it's time to save up... Not to be a dick, but in most cases you can't see if anything is wrong with it.Just because sometimes you can see it, doesn't mean that a lot of other things aren't dead because there is no visible damage. Yeaa, no kidding. But blatantly saying you can't see any damage by just a visual inspection is wrong. So, before it goes off to get repaired, anyone got any last ideas...?
  2. Not to be a dick but if you have never been able to look on a board and see something blown or burnt then you obviously haven't worked on many things. I'm kinda leaning that way already. Was just trying to avoid paying out the ass for shipping. Been wanting to run all RF amps, I guess it's time to save up...
  3. The amp was playing at low volume and just turned off suddenly. I turned the HU off and back on and it came back on, a few minutes later i smelled something electrical burning so I immediately turned the HU off. I pulled the amp out and found 2 of the A1695 transistors blown. Aside from the marks they left on the board when they blew, I see nothing else wrong. I replaced the pair and tried to power the amp on and it turns on but the blue light just flashes on for a fraction of a second then the red light stays on solid. The amp was still working up until the moment i turned off the HU when i smelled something burning so i honestly don't know if the protect light was on as it played those last few minutes. I see nothing wrong anywhere on any of the boards, anybody have a clue as to what else could be wrong? Im the original owner of the amp, been using it for my mids and highs for a few years now without any issues. Amp was never abused, has been at either 4 or 2 ohms, and never went into protect before.
  4. Ditto. Glad they came through for you in time for the comp!
  5. This ^ And depending on the climate where you are, even being stored inside can cause mold/mildew to form on the surround and spider if it's humid. Storing them with the cone side down would also be a no-no
  6. Wrong. They make spacers with studs in them that are just that....spacers. The bolt pattern will remain the same. There's more than just getting a 1" spacer if your wheel is too wide. The width AND the backpacking both need to be factored in before using spacers.
  7. You'll need extended studs. Extended lugs won't do anything if your wheel studs are too short
  8. HD version for anyone who cares... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIkF6SZgjYs
  9. One week to go....got my fingers crossed!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jD8Ywqtk1a4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
  10. Nope, it doesn't move at all. It used to turn and fall completely off but I used some epoxy putty stuff and it's solid now. Only moves if I move it.
  11. Get some 1/16" foam and put it along the seating surface for the back cover.
  12. I never even knew they had that posted lol. IMO any kinda computing device can get a virus. I just like the simplicity of the apple OS. I don't wanna molest files or do any crazy hacker code stuff so it's perfect. I wanna turn it on and not see 50 message windows for updates and other warnings. To each their own lol
  13. They just work because it's magical. And because you're playing inside of a sandbox instead of playing at the beach. and i love the sandbox. i bought a computer because i want it to do the work, i got tired of cleaning up the damn beach all the time
  14. All the govt computers we have at work are terrible, Legacy I believe they are. They just add to my dislike of PC's in general. Went to Apple a few years back....shoulda done a long time ago. It's nice when things just work...
  15. Hot glue in a few spots to hold temporarily then plastic epoxy once you're sure you have everything lined up how you want it. Works for me
  16. I'd do the whole door, can't see it being very strong or easy to work with if you only do half somehow. Just remove the switch panel, tweeter cover (if you want to keep the location, otherwise cover it) and that upper insert if it's removable.
  17. How about you spend less time being butthurt from the honesty and more time lookin up rims in your price range then posting pics and asking us what we like. Otherwise you probably ain't gonna get shit, do your own homework.
  18. 2500w, $500 and not shitty. umm, search classifieds. i doubt you'll find anything new that meets all that criteria unless you get damn lucky
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