Jump to content

Battery Choice, and wiring Questions.


Recommended Posts

Let me start with what I have, My truck is a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition, which means I have the 130amp Alternator.

I am looking for a cheaper, but not a garbage Battery to support the system I am putting in my truck. But after looking online at some battery prices, and seeing most well over $200, I just gave up, There was no way I can afford that. I have set myself a budget of at MAXIMUM of $200, including tax, and shipping(If I need to buy online). My local shop suggested Optima, but it is out of my price range @ $240, or a High Output Interstate Battery, which only costs $150, but I have never had experience with Interstate battery's.

I am honestly open to anything. My system is not SPL, I will be running 2 12inch subs, with a 500watt RMS amp, and 4 door speakers with 200watt RMS.

I already plan on doing the "Big 3", so I know I can get the most out of my system and alternator.

I plan on running some 4 gauge wire, unless somebody can explain why anything bigger would help, considering my system does not draw enough power to need 2, or 0 gauge wire. Plus 2, or 0 gauge is much more expensive, then 4 gauge.

My third and final question is about battery terminals. I know it is much cheaper to just hook every thing up with ring terminals, bit im my honest opinion, it looks horrible, and I would like to go for a clean look. so what are some CHEAP, but not junk battery terminals I can use?

Any input would be great, much thanks, Harold.

1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V8 AWD

So far with the Ford/JBL Stock Stereo system, Alpine System coming soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would suggest battery terminals and wiring from knukonceptz. You honestly won't need an upgraded battery with the power you're running. the big 3 should be plenty.

Audio Build

Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door

Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs

Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith

Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2)

Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4

Mids/Highs: Skar components

Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31

Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/


Perfomance Build

2003 Nissan 350z

Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU

Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations

Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels
466rwhp


Bike

2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14

Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would suggest battery terminals and wiring from knukonceptz. You honestly won't need an upgraded battery with the power you're running. the big 3 should be plenty.

I appreciate the reply. With my battery, it is a Walmart Battery, and I want to replace it anyway, one of the cells is dying, and it is just above 12 volts, so it is going out. I will be sure to check out Knukonceptz for some terminals.

1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V8 AWD

So far with the Ford/JBL Stock Stereo system, Alpine System coming soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what amp are you running?? and i would check out the knu CCA wire it is 0 guage but only $2 a foot so you could do the big 3 with it and run it to your amp so you could upgrade in the future. just a option. eather way i would do the big 3 with 0.

2003 VW Jetta Wagon AA Mayhem 15's Flatline BA2 2 XS D3100's in rear Shuriken BT80 under hood


Mike Singer 250A SHCA and KnuKonceptz wire Big 4+


AQ / Dayton pro mids+monsoon tweets


My Build : http://www.stevemead...35#entry1989435


Link to comment
Share on other sites

what amp are you running?? and i would check out the knu CCA wire it is 0 guage but only $2 a foot so you could do the big 3 with it and run it to your amp so you could upgrade in the future. just a option. eather way i would do the big 3 with 0.

honestly i would rather have OFC 4gauge wire instead of 0g CCA.. cca wire totally sucks in my book

but UNLESS you do plan on upgrading in the future.. the 0g is complete overkill and kind of a waste of money

and there is OFC 0g on ebay for cheaper than 2bux a foot.. OFC is ALWAYS better

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2 amps I am running are an Alpine MRP-M500, and a much older Sony XM-4045, the Sony I don't think needs 4 Gauge to go to it, I was considering just running 8 gauge.But I am for sure running 4 gauge to the Alpine amp.

As for the wire, my local shop has some high strand wire for $1.39 a foot. I figure I should just go with that, that way I don't have to wait, and pay for shipping.

1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V8 AWD

So far with the Ford/JBL Stock Stereo system, Alpine System coming soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2 amps I am running are an Alpine MRP-M500, and a much older Sony XM-4045, the Sony I don't think needs 4 Gauge to go to it, I was considering just running 8 gauge.But I am for sure running 4 gauge to the Alpine amp.

As for the wire, my local shop has some high strand wire for $1.39 a foot. I figure I should just go with that, that way I don't have to wait, and pay for shipping.

no need to waste wire and run 2 positive wires..

alpine m500 and small amp.. single ofc run of 4g front to back..and use a distrobution block and do your 8g to the sony and 4g or 8g to the alpine

single 4g run to distobution block..simple as pie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2 amps I am running are an Alpine MRP-M500, and a much older Sony XM-4045, the Sony I don't think needs 4 Gauge to go to it, I was considering just running 8 gauge.But I am for sure running 4 gauge to the Alpine amp.

As for the wire, my local shop has some high strand wire for $1.39 a foot. I figure I should just go with that, that way I don't have to wait, and pay for shipping.

yeah in that case just do that and go to autozone and get a battery with a 3 year warrinty so if you burn it up you can swap it out. also i know cca is not then best but its a option. but if you have the $ for ofc then its a no brainer.

2003 VW Jetta Wagon AA Mayhem 15's Flatline BA2 2 XS D3100's in rear Shuriken BT80 under hood


Mike Singer 250A SHCA and KnuKonceptz wire Big 4+


AQ / Dayton pro mids+monsoon tweets


My Build : http://www.stevemead...35#entry1989435


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, I guess just running one larger gauge and then splitting it in to the two amps never came to mind. It makes a lot of sense. I think most of my problem is that I am over thinking everything, and thinking my system is bigger then it actually is. I get pretty hyped up when I watch Youtube videos with guys with 15's and 18's and have well over 6000 watts of power. I just want my system to be headache free , and sound good. Not buying a HO battery will help me install everything a lot quicker.

1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V8 AWD

So far with the Ford/JBL Stock Stereo system, Alpine System coming soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1972 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...