ant the ninja Posted May 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 Bump.... Alt positive to battery positive Battery negative to strut tower engine block to strut tower or battery negative? Quote 2002 Ford Explorer XLT Front Stage: Crescendo CCX 6.5's Rear Stage: ??? Two 15" Powerbass M154 Audiopipe AP15001d Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 ummmm it goes to strut tower. should have 2 connections at your strut tower just check this out... it's very informative and it has colorful pictures lol http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/13280-how-to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/ Quote My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autruche Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 for 1/0 a 300 amp fuse dont replace stock wires not necessary to buy new terminals, but makes it easier NO. You should only ever fuse the wire according to the amount of current that it will see. I.E. fusing a wire for 300 amps when it will only see 120 amps of current is just stupid and possibly dangerous. Also 1/0 AWG is not good up to 300 amps like everyone thinks. Everything else in your post is right on though. OP: Yes. Alternator positive to battery positive, fused for the amount of current it will see. Engine ground to battery negative. Battery negative to good body/chassis ground. If the stock battery grounding point is any good, you can use that. If not many people use their strut tower bolts. I prefer to drill a hole in a nice solid piece of metal and secure the terminal with a nut, bolt, and washers. Make sure to sand all connections to bare metal. With the battery you have, getting new battery terminals isn't necessary since yours has those accessory threaded posts on it. I'd simply make use of them, but allow a few inches of excess wire on the runs to allow leeway for replacing the battery. Here is a great place to get terminals on the cheap: http://impulse-elect...let%20Terminals if you plan on soldering them, you can simply drill a hole in the top of the terminals to allow you to solder them like an open ended terminal. Quote Need Test Tones/Sine Waves? Click Here!My Saab 9000 build1993 Saab 9000 Aero 5spdPioneer - Zapco - Hifonics - Sundown Audio - O2 Audio - RE AudioJust Say No To Rear SpeakersJust Say No To CCA WireReal Men Drive StickHit me up on Facebook, if you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ant the ninja Posted May 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 (edited) for 1/0 a 300 amp fuse dont replace stock wires not necessary to buy new terminals, but makes it easier NO. You should only ever fuse the wire according to the amount of current that it will see. I.E. fusing a wire for 300 amps when it will only see 120 amps of current is just stupid and possibly dangerous. Also 1/0 AWG is not good up to 300 amps like everyone thinks. Everything else in your post is right on though. OP: Yes. Alternator positive to battery positive, fused for the amount of current it will see. Engine ground to battery negative. Battery negative to good body/chassis ground. If the stock battery grounding point is any good, you can use that. If not many people use their strut tower bolts. I prefer to drill a hole in a nice solid piece of metal and secure the terminal with a nut, bolt, and washers. Make sure to sand all connections to bare metal. With the battery you have, getting new battery terminals isn't necessary since yours has those accessory threaded posts on it. I'd simply make use of them, but allow a few inches of excess wire on the runs to allow leeway for replacing the battery. Here is a great place to get terminals on the cheap: http://impulse-elect...let%20Terminals if you plan on soldering them, you can simply drill a hole in the top of the terminals to allow you to solder them like an open ended terminal. Shit, I went with a 300 fuse, bad idea? I have 100 and a 120 laying around, should I use that instead? I haven't installed anything yet just trying to make sure I have it all right. I did buy new batt terminals but I dont think I like them so I probably wont use them. I actually bought those copper terminals that look identical to that on amazon so those should be good. The stock grounding point for the battery is shit, atleast it looks it too me, you can see it in on of the picture I posted. And now Im confused again...haha your post conflicts with the one above, Your's says engine ground to negative battery, so I cant just use the same strut tower for both my engine ground and my battery negative ground? Sorry, It seems so simple I just dont know why the fuck im confused so bad. Edited May 28, 2012 by ant the ninja Quote 2002 Ford Explorer XLT Front Stage: Crescendo CCX 6.5's Rear Stage: ??? Two 15" Powerbass M154 Audiopipe AP15001d Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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