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  1. I need some help with my "DMH-A240bt" I'm having problem wiring up my subs... The unit onlt have 1 single female RCA output for subwoofer. And i can't seem to get any audio signal from it. I've tried several diffrent rca splitter and none worked so i went all out and bought an expensive one form amazon. but it still wont work. The amp has power and has worked previously with a different headunit so that should not be the issue. Any help appriciated. Cheers
  2. Ok so I've been doing research and honestly I'm kinda stumped, I know I wanna go with lithium titanate but I would like to avoid building my own bank so I've been looking at cased cells https://www.google.com/amp/s/store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/amp/ces-custom-electric-service-40ah-lto-battery-cased-lithium-10-spot-terminals-actively-balanced/ https://caraudiobargain.com/xs-power-ioxus-ix-3160-60ah-lithium-lto-battery-10-000-rms-handling/ But would I be able to hook my current battery terminals up to it without a battery delete since my battery is already in the trunk or do I still need to do a delete and run everything off that? I have a BMW e46 sedan with an h8(group 49) duralast agm in the trunk as my "under the hood" battery. Still new to car audio and this is my second build (first was a single 12 on 800 watts) so I've got a lot to learn, any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
  3. I need help deciding on an amp to purchase, I'm currently running one kicker cvx12 wired at 1 ohm to a 800 watt pioneer amp. I recently purchased a couple FI bl12v3s fully loaded and have been looking for an amp to run them at 1 ohm. No, I don't have the electrical to support an amp to run them but I plan on playing it low and watching voltage till I upgrade, can anyone suggest an amp, would like 2.5 to 4k at 1ohm and 1.5 or more at 2. Budget is 550usd but I'm willing to pay more if it's high value and on sale or if I just feel impulsive enough. I've been looking at the crescendo symphony s1 plus but I'm still new to car audio, (built my first system less than a year ago) and don't wanna make a purchase and then regret it, like I did with my cvx. Thanks in advance for any support/advice, I really appreciate it, -Nico
  4. I recently started my first car audio build. I have a Skar Rp1500.1d, Skar EVL15D2, a good HU that has clean volume till 1 before max, an epicenter, components up front, 6x9s in rear deck, and a 1000w pioneer 4ch, all on 1/0g to an XS bank, then 4g to the amps. My problem is this...I am on a budget. A VERY TIGHT budget. I have 2 full sheets of 5/8" ply. I need an enclosure that will fit the trunk of a 1995 Honda Accord 4dr, while leaving room for batteries and amp rack. I listen to mainly rock and some rap. The maximum dimensions of the trunk space I can use are: 33"x25"x16.5". Thanks in advance for your help. P.S. I suck at designing and math so...yeah...roast away.
  5. i need help deleting vehicles from my garage as i no longer have them. have been trying to figure out how and i just cant figure it out. can anyone help? please?
  6. I'm trying to buy some recones for a pair of SA woofers and I having a lot of trouble getting a hold of Sundown to purchase the recones Does anybody know of a quick way to get a hold of them? I've contacted and talked to a couple SA dealers in DFW area (Texas) and I've sent a couple of emails over a period of about 2 weeks. And I realize there busy but it's just a little frustrating..
  7. well im in need of help about my amp ...... i picked it up for 50 bucks and it was not working right .. the right channel was making a buzz sound but left worked but was distorted so i opened her up and everything looked new still ....i mean new no dust on fan nothing. caution sticker still on never opened. after opening there are no clamps that hold the fet's and what not down the cover did that so 2 i THINK power fet's blew not being clamped to the heat sink....... so im trying to figure out what was causing the fet's to get hot that not being clamped to the heat sink blew them.......... PICS....... any help will be nice. i'd like to fix my self fet's that blew when i opened up they where good till i powered it up open then they smoked and blew they are the top 3rd and 8th from left amp amp again side other side now GUT'S gut's caution sticker before i broke it
  8. Here's the run down so you'll can give me the best opinion. I drive a 2006 F-150 XLT 4.6 (V8) crew cab. Stock 125 amp alt. I plan on replacing my battery soon and I'm gonna try and convince the 'rents' to buy a better battery than the ones you buy from Ford. I'm tore between getting a XS Power and Kinetik battery. I have no idea what size I need. So your opinion on what size and brand would be wonderful. This isn't 'vs.' thread just a 'suggestion and opinion thread' since I know you'll hate the 'vs.' threads. I also am about to rebuild my system which be consisting of an Orion HCCA 12.2 with 2500 watts pushing towards. I added that just in case it might change your suggestion on size. Sorry for this being long just want the basic run down to get the best opinions. Thanx!
  9. Alright guys I have another question that's gonna make me look like a car audio noob. My Dad likes me to explain everything I do to my system and the reason why I'm doing it. I was explaining the Big 3 and he wants to know why you run a power wire from the positive of the battery to the alternator. I couldn't even answer it. If you could tell me why please do. Thanx
  10. Does anyone in the DFW area have a DD-1 that can help me with my amps? I can pay you for your help. I just wanted to check and see if somebody close has one before I go and buy one for myself. Thanx
  11. Whats up everyone, i'm new here and I'm really getting into car audio. Right now I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado that I threw 2 shallow P3 12's in. I really want something louder. I'm not quite ready to do a blow through, so I want my first build to be 4 Sundown SA-8's underneath the rear seat, facing the front. I want two 4" ports, one on each side. I'm extremely new to box building, but I learn very fast. I have a few questions, and I would also really appreciate some pointers & tips. Question #1: Since I want 4 subs with a port on each side of the box, am I going to need to put a center divider in the center of the box, so that I create two chambers, each with two subs and a 4" port? Question #2: The SA-8's recommended box volume is .5-.75 cu. ft. so should I simply take .5 and times it by four, giving me a 2 cu. ft. box volume for the 4 subs? That's all the questions I can think of...for now. Any tips or other help is GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks, Mike
  12. I'm replacing the power and ground in my car to 0 awg and plan on doing the big three upgrade too. I'm on the fence on choosing which brand to buy though. EXO from YouTube talks Audio Technix so I checked there site and I am guessing 20 feet will be enough to run from the battery to the back seat and maybe the big three too. But I can get 20 feet of 0 awg power wire from Audio Technix for $70 but I also did some looking around and found Cadence 0 gauge on AudioSavings which is $50 for 25 feet. I just wanna buy the right stuff. Help.
  13. I recently screwed myself out of a deal and need a new amp. I've been looking around and came across the Sundown SAZ-2500D. (I have an Orion HCCA 12). I just wanted to know what the forum thought about this amp on this sub. I bought a nice sub and I don't want a cheap amp that's why I choose Sundown for an amp, I plan to do this the right way.
  14. So I think this might be a little noobish but I still havent done the big 3, I know I know, It should have been done a long time ago. Anyway, Im going to do it next week but I am extremely nervous about it for some reason. Does anyone have any pointers for me? and Exactly what I need to do it. I know 1/0 gauge ofc wire but what else? Has anyone thats done it on a 2002 ford explorer know the best place for the ground? ahhh, help! thanks guys.
  15. I have 2 15" AB HD's in a 8cubft box in the back of my blazer with the slot port facing up and the subs inverted and me and my buddy DAN have been arguing, he thinks i should put the subs non-inverted and turn the box so the port is facing the hatch, he thinks i will get one or two DB's by doing this so i figured i would ask my SMD family what they think...........WELL??????
  16. Currently I have the Hifonics amp. I am expecting two new Skar VVX 12's tomorrow. I am wondering which amp out of the two would be a better match for the subs, with sound quality and spl in mind. What would the pros and cons of either amp be for this setup or similar ones? I'm asking this, because I am selling one of my old type-r's on craigslist, and I have someone that wants to trade the p1000 for my type-r. This made me wonder if this amp would be a better option for me, or if I should just hold out for cash and either keep the Hifonics or save up for an even more powerful and better amp like an AQ 2200 or similar. I don't mean to start a vs. thread, because it seems like they are rather disliked on this and any other forum. I'm just looking for opinions from others with more experience than I have. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
  17. hey guys i just got a new car and sadly decided to go from my dc xl 18 to 2 12 inch DC lvl4 m2. i have read goood things about these so i am staying positive lol. my question for you guys is what amp would you recommend? i have and AQ 2200d. would i be good running this? Or should i upgrade to an AQ3500 or DC 3.5k any help would be great thanks!
  18. I've decided on buying a Fi Q 15, I just need help on finding an amp that would be best suited for it. I have a Treo amp that pushes 1000 watts that i'll use to break it in.
  19. I am currently running two JL 12W3's and am looking to upgrade to a single, better sub. I'm having a hard time deciding between the two in the title. Please help. I listen to a lot of metal and rap. So i need quality and great response time for double bass and whopping bass for 808's and rap.
  20. Im confused as to what dimensions my box needs to be for the SA-8 i got in the mail, i know .6 cubes and around 35 Hz, but i don't know how to construct it, i am a noob, i do need to be walked through on certain things. thanks.
  21. Hi, I recently purchased and installed my first sub system: Kenwood 9105D Mono-Amp @ 1800w max / 900 rms(2ohm) Dual Kenwood 12" w3013ps subs (bridged @ 2 ohms, 450rms per sub(400rms-1200w peak)) w/ 34-300 freq. response, recommended ported enclosure @ 2 cft tuned to 34hz 4 Gage power wires, 12 gage speaker wire, gold plated terminals etc Got most of it on sale, cost about $350 for everything from sonic electronix and crutchfield. The subs are in a Sound Ordnance dual 12 inch ported enclosure @ 1.63 cft per chamber, tuned at 33hz The subs sound too high pitched of bass, it's LOUD and shakes most of the car, it just doesn't sound quite right, I believe it has to do with the enclosure size and bad box tuning but I wanted to make sure, that's why I'm asking here. So my question is this, is the bass problem the size of the box, the tuning, or the high freq. response of the subs? or a mix of some of these. Right now the subs don't play below 40hz very well which I'm sure is because of the tuning and size of the box. I'm more than willing to build a box for these but I'm not sure if it's worth it if the subs still wont touch anything below 34hz, I see a lot of people here with boxes tuned to 30hz or less and I'm wondering if I should tune that low even though my response is only 34hz. Should I just buy new subs? Most of my music doesn't hit lower than 34hz but still, I want some ground pouding bass every once in a while, can't really afford anything much bigger right now with my financial situation. Any info would be helpful I'm just looking to soak up some data since I'm a beginner, a lot of the topics here are very helpful. Thanks!
  22. Ive been looking but havent seen anyone really do (3) v3 z18 subs. i just got 3 of them and have 3 hifonics brutus 2100d and am curious has anyone had experience with these subwoofers? Sundown says 4 ft^3 and that sounds too small. Also, this is my first real system, gathering everything i think i need. Input appreciated.
  23. I've got a Orion HCCA 12.2 in a ported box and I'm in need of an amp but unsure which brand or wattage I should get. My sub is rated for 2000 rms 4000 max power. I plan to wire it down to 1 ohm so it needs to be 1 ohm stable. Suggestions? Help? Thanx
  24. i have 4 mofo 15s, i would like to pull some decent numbers and keep it an every day driver. the box will be 22.86 cubic ft, 220 in. port area, tuned to 35 hz. all will be double thick 3/4 in mdf, with bolt bracing. subs and port up port. port by back window or up front? will it work correctly with the subs i have? love to hear your input. new to this big of a set up.
  25. I've got a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder and right now I'm on my second system, running a Power Acoustik LT1440/2 bridged for a Kicker L7 in a Kicker custom box that they discontinued with the metal grill on it all on stock electrical with a new head unit, 2011 Pioneer DEH-6350SD. The box is pretty big, but im looking to upgrade and found Audio Queue. i live in an area where the only car audio store i know of reps Z-Stat and thats really about it. I tend to stay away from most of their other products and only have a pair Z-Stat woofers in my front doors because i blew my bose up there before i knew much about car audio. Found what ive got now online. Wondering if i were to buy two AQ SDC2.5 12's and throw them in a generic ported box with an MB Quart ONX 1.1500D, if it would be worth the change, or if i would even notice the difference. Should i find a custom box? ported or bandpass?
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