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Found 221 results

  1. Remember the Bucket o' Bass series? Its on Steve Meades channel. In the video he uses four DC Audio Level ones. I decided it was a good idea and built the box and used those subs. My box design is dead near-perfect, my amp has plenty of power, and the subs are high quality. My only problem is during the test bump, I blew one of the subs! I don't know how. The subwoofers were NOT reaching anywhere near xmax, even on the extreme lows. The subs weren't even really being pushed. They were slightly over powered, but I didn't even turn the volume up that far. It was at 9 tonight. I just don't understand what I did wrong. I'm super new to this, but I'm pretty sure I did everything right. Help me! Shit I'm using: QCA4000d: 2000w rms Quantum Audio Amp. (4) DC Audio Level 1 12s Homemade enclosure 01' silverado
  2. Question for any person, I'm building a box for a friend. He has 2-JL Audio W7(not the AE) svc 3ohm subs with a Taramps 5000.1 mono but switching to a JL 1000 mono amplifier. He wants a sealed enclosure but he likes loud so I suggested a ported box. Doesn't want that, so I had mentioned having both types either going 4th order being sealed and ported or go with a 6th order. By experienced ppl out there, which type enclosure would be best for these 2 12W7's? The system is going in a 06' Buick Regal. Thank yall if any ideas on this
  3. Hello, this is my first post on this site but ive always found this website very useful. I was wondering if someone could teach me some about transmission line enclosures i have a single 15" skar evl 15 that i want to build a t line for. Its gonna be in my room so space isnt a problem. If anyone could shoot me some ideas that would be great. Im aiming for it to be tuned about 30 hertz
  4. Hey guys im doing my first build 3 skar evl 15s dvc 2ohm on a ts 3.5 I was gonna do a flat wall but everyone I know personally who does comps says if this is for me anf not for comps I need to do a fourth order cause it's more musical and has more bandwidth i wanna do demos but really i just love bass I've tried bass box 6 and win isd and on regular ported walls it wasnt a problem to get good response on the graph but when I try it with the 4th order calc no matter what i do I cant get the tuning right i want it tuned where its peaking between 32 and 55 Hz tops I don't know a bunch about it all i know is i love bass and I am a noob to all competitors I've read over an hour a day for 9 months and finally got the basics but still know nothing theres so much to learn but im dedicated i got everything for it ho alt batts subs amp and all power cable ran but cant build the box correctly cause i cant do the specs and don't wanna mess up the subs from doing it wrong I know it's time consuming and has no benefit to you but if someone could please help id be eternally grateful the box max external specs are 42d 36h 40w so it leaves plenty of room for the 2:1. And the subs rec enclosure are 3.5-3.75 sealed 3.5-4.0. Ported thanks so much for even reading this ridiculously long post if someone would help I will build and show results so they can know there time wasnt wasted -hooplah-
  5. So my 2014 Ford fusion is a great for tight spaces. And having trouble coming up with a alternator bracket design. But dream system simply can't happen without it. I atleast need some ideas for a bracket, mounting points and such unless someone may be willing to make me one. I've figured out (and I hope correctly) the max I can put in this thing is about 6k-7.5k of bass on 4 or 5 u series 10" sundown subs, and 800 watts of crescendo mezzo components on an c1100.4. If 6k then crescendo 6k amp, if 7.5k then sundown amp. I'mguessing 3 or 4 270 amp alts plus stock 170 amp alt, 3 or 4 xp3000's for secondary, 1 d3400 to replace starter battery, all alts 2 runs 2/0, (how should I connect wires in this system?, there are many options. All power to starter bat then starter bat [same amount of total runs to rear secondaries 2/0] to first secondary and so on or starter bat to each secondary battery [one run to first, one run to second and so on] then secondaries to amps using 1/0 and dual inputs to amps. Then for grounds, from alts, ground to chassis or run ground to chassis and starter bat then to secondaries, or all battery and alts ground to chassis? That's for audio, then I'm estimating on the high end 1000 watts for lighting system. Also do I have enough batts and alts in the system planned? Am I short or to much? Should I add lithium if so how do I wire that into the system? This is a link to engine bay pics for reference. https://photos.app.goo.gl/1PvssHTzAfz4qmW78
  6. So I'm listening to music and dialing in the max I can give my subs. I just installed an hcca 3k woth 3 skar evls, and everything is fine. Then from one song to the next I have very little bass. If I turn it down the bass cones back. If I turn it up bass goes minimal. Not completely gone. Sounds like I have less than 1 sub. Been running the system for a few days with no issues. I have: 250amp alt Regular front battery. Not sure what A power xs 925 for the back 3 runs of 1/0 gauge from second battery to amp all fused. And 3 runs of 1/0 ground to amp. 2 from battery 1 from fat seat belt all ground down and shiny. Any ideas? Could it be a loose... something that's interrupting power draw? Tia fir any help.
  7. Hello everyone, I am in major need of understanding port measurements for slot ports with 3 common walls. I have built a few amazing sounding boxes in past and always guessed port length and got lucky considering I don't know anything about the math used to figure out ports. I have a Sundown SA 12d2 on a Sundown 1100.5 it is @1ohm and currently in a prefab box that sounds horrible. I am wanting to build a box between 2-2.5sqft as I've heard these subs actually need bigger than recommended. I'd like to tune between 27-33hz and require a solid bottom note and a flat curve that doesn't drop till well in the 100hz range. Width has to be 35" max and no less than 34" heigth max of 15" and max depth 16" Sub and port both face rear of trunk. I have both BassBox 6 Pro and Torres Tuning Calculator. Any help figuring out a box that hits the deep lows and has a strong full range will be considered. Also help understanding how to get the port measured and cut correctly. Any help understanding port ratio greatly appreciated as BassBox Pro always seems to give better designs with small width ports where as Torres I find bigger ports do better. Thank you for any and all help to tho that post suggestions!
  8. Hey guys! So I've been busy shopping some batteries and cables for my setup, so when the car is not running I'd be still capable of powering my setup fine. I bought some KnuKonceptz OFC 1/0 gauge wire, and ended up with two AGM batteries that I purchased used, but still in fine condition. (one 95 AH , and one 105AH) In order to get the max out of them I strapped the two together in hopes to get the sweet 200AH I was looking for based on this online calculator: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html When I set everything up, and tuned the amp, there came the big moment, to clamp test everything. I was suprised, but I only got around 800 RMS, on test tone. As far as amps go I got myself a Hifonics Brutus BRX 2016.1D, and a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3 D4 subs. The reason why I wrote down everything this meticulously, is because I wold like to know what could went wrong with my little test. According to my calculations I shold easily get 1000 RMS, with this particular choice of equipment. The batteries are capable of producing this kind of power, the wiring is overkill for 1k I think, the amp is rated at 2kw and even if half is true it is still 1kw, the subs are CEA-2031 rated and knowing Fosgate they are up to the task, I got the 200A fuse as recomended by the manual of the sub, so I don't know what could cause this power drop. What do you guys think can be the cause of the problem? Any thoughts wold be useful! ??
  9. Popped one of my Xl 18s last week and trying to see about a recone, not sure about the model of the sub itself. it looks fine but does not play and is very stiff, will not budge at all. Does anyone know a way of telling which Model it is, Either M1, M2, or M4? and should i get the other reconed so they are the same? any help would be greatly appreciated
  10. I got this 15in sub in a tuned 32hz box, 2400.1 D hifonics zues amp and tons of extra 0ga wiring for a trade. its been custom capped and even dude i got it from had no idea. so I'm wanting to check the specs on it so i know what it can do without smoking it. it laughs at the 2400.1 and it has more to offer im sure. i have a hifonics brutus 3016.1 D at my fingers so i wanna find out what i can. any help would be great.
  11. Building a box for 4 sundown E8's to go in the trunk to sit flush against the rear seats and port out the rear seat opening (ski pass). The attached picture has a rough draft of the design it is a angled box with dimensions of 36"width x 14"tall x 16"top depth x 24"bottom depth. Volume of each sub camber (RED) is 1.344ft3 and port area (BLUE) is 1.5" wide with a area around 18.75 tuned to around 33-34 hz. Mainly just need to know what happens to that tuning once it reaches the center chamber (with the front of the subs) and out the ski pass.
  12. Hey there, I have two 15" Earthquake DBXI subwoofers that are currently in a sealed enclosure and I'm looking to go ported. My car is a 2003 Monte carlo - My amp is an Alpine 1k - The trunk space available is 36" wide - 31" Deep - 16" Tall The subwoofers are 6 3/8" from the bottom of the mounting bracket to the bottom of the magnet if that helps I listen to a lot of rap (Gucci Mane, Future, etc) and I'm a huge fan of low bass (Decaf <3) but I'd still like to be able to handle mid range bass also Im not opposed to any style of box I Just want it to sound better Please let me know if you need any more info! Will appreciate any help someone can give!
  13. need help designing a port for my enclosure it is 5 cubic feet and i wish to tune to 38hz please help i dont know where to find 8 inch pvc or port desiging and making the port for me would be applicable for a transfer of funds to the creator and maker i would pay shipping thanks in advance i also would like 2 ports if possible 4" in diameter plus please
  14. i am soon to purchase 3 type r 10's the new ones that run 1000 watts rms so please help me pair an amp or or amps to these subs and any other helpful information would be accepted as well. (please do not troll me i am 16 and on my 2nd system)
  15. ive had this sub sitting around tryin to figure out a good box for it (sub up port back!) its wanting 5 cube after disp. sub disp. is .26 now i want my box 20x38x17 which is about 6.06 cuft. now the port is where im having the most problem cant really figure out the right tuning im wanting about 32 hz ANYONE HELP!? :huh2: :huh2: :huh2: :huh2:
  16. I am in the process of sealing off my trunk and I still want to be able to get to my spare tire or have trunk space if I go on a trip. Here is my idea and I was wonder if anyone has done it before. I could make a frame slot that is the size of the outside if my box and secure that to the trunk and seal that off in the trunk and make a lip on the front.. Then I could slide the box in and out at will. I would make it a tight fit and have a way to lock it in place so that it will still have no airflow going past the box. Would this work?
  17. Im looking into some train horns, and I just dont know much about them... I found the Hornblasters Rocker 228 horn kit, and for $320, im just not sure how it holds up for the price. Im just looking for some insight on train horns in general, and if that kit is worth getting. I want loud and deep, but I dont want to spend $1000. The $300ish price range was what im looking for, so if anyone knows something better for that price, that would be great. I dont need anything crazy, just enough to scare my friends if they walk in front of my truck lol. Space isnt much of an issue either. Thanks in advance for help on this
  18. Okay... I know most people hate capacitors..but i like them. Anyways I have two twelves and two tens. I have a 10 farad capacitor. One of my amps only has one set RCAs and the other has two. Can anyone help me on wiring this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Wade
  19. Ok and who could I talk to about just figuring out everything? How many ohms, specs on the sub, or just what the heck inverting it does?!?
  20. I just ordered two 12" Alpine Type R SWR-12D4 and a Hifonics Brutus Elite 2000.1. I need to build a box to fit in a 2000 Ford Taurus. I am fairly new to the car audio scene so I don't know how many hz to tune the box to or how hard it is. Just looking for a cut list and any suggestions on how I should build this.
  21. so as the title says what are some possible ideas for a 2000$ system. i already have high output alternator 320amp and big 3 so just looking for battery upgrade options amps and subs oh i almost forgot also take into account ill be having a box built for it, so that will account for like 300 of it haha
  22. I was running subs today at about 1/2 volume of max . My system has been tuned with the dd1. No eq or bass boost everything set flat and 0. Today with volume lower then usual... I heard a noise that was a loud buzz sound and then it sounded like a slinky hitting a wall. I immediately pulled over and the sub was still playing just not as loud. I pushed on the front and I can feel the coil rubbing. The sub was not hot or overheating. I had an old JL audio blow before but it usually would be super hot and have dust/smoke coming out the holes. This sub is a newer w3v3 that I have had for less then a year and purchased as a pair. The other is completely fine. When I put the multimeter on it, it read open but when I move it, it jumps around in Ohms alot. Could someone enlighten me or what may of happen? Is it blown or did the suspension go on it?? I plan to get it repaired by JL because they charged a flat rate repair of $150 on w3v3s. Both tinsel leads look perfectly fine and the spyder is untouched. From within the cone I can feel the whole shape of the coil pressing forward.
  23. Hey so i'm new to the spl competition world and want to ask a few questions. So i have a jetta wagon and have a 39" by 24" by 15" area in my trunk for a box (that will keep the port if facing back about 5 inches from the hatch.) So i was wondering what woofer size and # of woofers i should run to have the most out put? What i can think of so far is 2 12's 1 15 2 15's - (maby like SA 15's or Z 15's who like smaller boxes) 1 18 (will probably get around 6 cubes max after port displacement) aero or slot also i plan on running 2 batteries in total and one amp AQ2200D for now (3500 if i can get a HO alt) I have ran one 15" and scored a 144 Db and now have a daily box with two 15's but is above the window line so i cant compete. so the last question i ask is what classes can i compete in if i have 2 batteries no wall and with the variably being the # and size of woofers? If you can answer any of this and have advice from a vet it would be much appreciated.
  24. Here goes nothing... I've searched for hours to find info on building a box in my Civic but cant really find much. First off, Im not rich so this whole build will be as cheap as possible and redneck! Lol...anyways, I want to build a box for 2-12" RF P3s that will be right behind my rear seat. Im also going to seal off the trunk. Is this ok? I see alot of wall builds in the back seats that they seal off the trunk. is it right to seal off the trunk with a box in there? The subs and port/s will be facing forward. I guess, before I start this whole thing, I would like some ideas/input from anyone who is willing. Like I said this is my first build besides throwing some subs in a box in a trunk. I just want to get as loud as I can with what I have for equipment for as cheap as poss. Go ahead......let me have it!!!
  25. ok so my set up is i have 4 gauge wire running to my trunk area and have a second battery running 2 ken wood 1800w monoblock class d amps. 4 kicker 12cvrs and 4 gauge grounding the amps 80amp inline fuses(3. one from front battery, one to each amp from second battery). everything has been running fantastic until today my inline fuse to one of the amps blew so i replaced it, then the fuse in the amp blew, i replaced it lol, then the inline popped again. idk what the problem is with it but ive checked the power wires and ground and there is nothing wrong with them everything seems to be fine. so if anyone has had this problem or has a general idea how to fix this please let me know. i would greatly appreciate it
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