This might be a bit noobish but...

[ant the ninja]

Bump....

Alt positive to battery positive

Battery negative to strut tower

engine block to strut tower or battery negative?

[Crandis16]

ummmm it goes to strut tower. should have 2 connections at your strut tower

just check this out... it's very informative and it has colorful pictures lol

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/13280-how-to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/

[Autruche]

for 1/0 a 300 amp fuse

dont replace stock wires

not necessary to buy new terminals, but makes it easier

NO. You should only ever fuse the wire according to the amount of current that it will see. I.E. fusing a wire for 300 amps when it will only see 120 amps of current is just stupid and possibly dangerous. Also 1/0 AWG is not good up to 300 amps like everyone thinks. Everything else in your post is right on though.

OP: Yes.

Alternator positive to battery positive, fused for the amount of current it will see.

Engine ground to battery negative.

Battery negative to good body/chassis ground.

If the stock battery grounding point is any good, you can use that. If not many people use their strut tower bolts. I prefer to drill a hole in a nice solid piece of metal and secure the terminal with a nut, bolt, and washers. Make sure to sand all connections to bare metal.

With the battery you have, getting new battery terminals isn't necessary since yours has those accessory threaded posts on it. I'd simply make use of them, but allow a few inches of excess wire on the runs to allow leeway for replacing the battery.

Here is a great place to get terminals on the cheap: http://impulse-elect...let%20Terminals

if you plan on soldering them, you can simply drill a hole in the top of the terminals to allow you to solder them like an open ended terminal.

[ant the ninja]

for 1/0 a 300 amp fuse

dont replace stock wires

not necessary to buy new terminals, but makes it easier

NO. You should only ever fuse the wire according to the amount of current that it will see. I.E. fusing a wire for 300 amps when it will only see 120 amps of current is just stupid and possibly dangerous. Also 1/0 AWG is not good up to 300 amps like everyone thinks. Everything else in your post is right on though.

OP: Yes.

Alternator positive to battery positive, fused for the amount of current it will see.

Engine ground to battery negative.

Battery negative to good body/chassis ground.

If the stock battery grounding point is any good, you can use that. If not many people use their strut tower bolts. I prefer to drill a hole in a nice solid piece of metal and secure the terminal with a nut, bolt, and washers. Make sure to sand all connections to bare metal.

With the battery you have, getting new battery terminals isn't necessary since yours has those accessory threaded posts on it. I'd simply make use of them, but allow a few inches of excess wire on the runs to allow leeway for replacing the battery.

Here is a great place to get terminals on the cheap: http://impulse-elect...let%20Terminals

if you plan on soldering them, you can simply drill a hole in the top of the terminals to allow you to solder them like an open ended terminal.

Shit, I went with a 300 fuse, bad idea? I have 100 and a 120 laying around, should I use that instead? I haven't installed anything yet just trying to make sure I have it all right. I did buy new batt terminals but I dont think I like them so I probably wont use them. I actually bought those copper terminals that look identical to that on amazon so those should be good. The stock grounding point for the battery is shit, atleast it looks it too me, you can see it in on of the picture I posted. And now Im confused again...haha your post conflicts with the one above, Your's says engine ground to negative battery, so I cant just use the same strut tower for both my engine ground and my battery negative ground? Sorry, It seems so simple I just dont know why the fuck im confused so bad.

Edited May 28, 2012 by ant the ninja