STEvil Posted June 3, 2012 Report Posted June 3, 2012 yeah i agree that they are a good company with some good amps but the coils on jls are just not worth it in my book... To each his own I guess. The only sub I've heard bad things about are the newer W1's. Don't really care about the JL argument at all, mostly just HEY LOOK SOMEONE ELSE FROM TUCSON! lol wow that was unexpected dude subs freeze from being over powered the coils lock up. Correct. And if it was over powered that is user error and NOT JL's fault. jl 10w0v3/4: Recommended RMS Amplifier Power 75 - 300 W kendwood kac 8402: 90x4 rms w (btw thats at max gain with perfect 4 ohm load) playing music not even turned up and it just stopped...looked at it and it was frozen...(second jl i ever owned) apologies i have an edit to make, their amps are great amps. but still, the prices of ANY of their products is a complete turn-off to the point where i wont even use the equipment they put out. once again agreed but i sure as hell wouldnt turn it down it it was free max gain. smells like clipping in here.. That's what I was thinking. Junior, the gain on an amp is there to match the output voltage from the headunits preouts. The higher the headunit output voltage, the less the gain needs to be turned up to achieve the amps max output. If you had the gain maxed out on that amp, it was probobly clipping the shit out of that sub and unwound the coil in the gap and ceased the cone. That's just my guess though one yes i know this ranger but seeing as i dont know my pre out voltage and dont have access to a dd1 i simply set the amp to the rms rating of he sub using ohms law(see below) two i never said that i had it set at max gain i said that my amp is RATED at 90 w rms but thats is with the gain maxed and a perfect 4 ohm load when i was younger (first system) i thought like 90% of kids with a thrown together system that the gain was basically like an amount to amplify which in basicality it is just how much to amplify the signal but i havent since then because even though i didnt blow any subs back then i realized it was bad on the subs...right now if my amp wasnt hidden under piles of boxes(in the process of moving) i could go look at it and it would be set right at 3v input sensitivity with my amp markings at 5v 3v 2v 1v .5v and .2v markings which means that the amp (even though its hooked up to a different sub that i dont know the rms handling of but due know that its a 24 ohm sub) is set to the square root of 250rms(desired) times the 4 ohm load of my previous sub which comes out to 31.xx volts ac on the dmm 31*31/4 = 240. Too bad its not as simple as that and using a 4 ohm load across two channels achieves a final impedence factor of 2 ohms. 31*31 /2= 480.5, though to tell you the truth the impedence curve is going to make that number look even worse.. In short you clipped it to death, using 2 channels of a 4 channel amp. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
bassface Posted June 3, 2012 Report Posted June 3, 2012 I never had any problems with my 8w7's in my truck at all, had them installed since 2004.
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