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a little help/advice would be great.


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kinda, i want high numbers. this will most likely be my last year actualy trying to win. next year it will be more of just to show up at the shows hang out and compete for the love of the sport. if i go the route of the round ports i could always find a way to make it to where i can change the port just for competing.

even in the current box tuned to 43hz i can still play into the high 20hz. sounds fantasic down to around 30-32hz. changable ports would be nice though.

Edited by alaskanzx5

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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i would rather not have to change out boxes. its just me and my wife and its hit or miss with my freinds when it comes to getting help. these speakers and box are no light weight lifting. current box with subs weighed in just below 230lbs. put it in the car by myself and ended up pulling a muscle or something in my back.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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so if i was to do the round port design above, would these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352 at a total lenght of 13" work for the port?

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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didn't really read the thread, but i saw you at the image audio show. i drive the silver cavy with the sundowns.

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2001 chevy cavalier

Rebuild in progress

what happens when your CD player skips and you accidentally drop a 22 hz sine bomb at an unholy volume on 7-8 year old subs? Mechanical failure floppy sub knockage on at least 2.

well...as i see the level 6 is compared to a lamborghini.....but a corvette?

i was thinking more like a chevy volt. its cute and new and "hip", but i would just rather stick my dick in a blender.........

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You can still do a decent slot ported box. Just do Sub up, Port back. Make your port area around 14-16. And tune around 35-37. And then do the common 3 port walls. You should be able to still get the high notes, and still do decent low.

Last box i built, was tuned to 35hz and a port area around 21. Played low, and also hit the high notes pretty damn well.

*06 330i - Sundern x12 - saz-3500*


*91 Foxbody V1 S-Trim Notch*

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didn't really read the thread, but i saw you at the image audio show. i drive the silver cavy with the sundowns.

yeah i remember seeing you there. what was your score agian?

You can still do a decent slot ported box. Just do Sub up, Port back. Make your port area around 14-16. And tune around 35-37. And then do the common 3 port walls. You should be able to still get the high notes, and still do decent low.

Last box i built, was tuned to 35hz and a port area around 21. Played low, and also hit the high notes pretty damn well.

well if i can gain a little by using round ports i would like to but i do prefer slot port

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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Ok. Let's see.....you got the right idea. Not sure if you said it or not, but if have the actual meter, you can test one thing at a time. But if you don't. That's ok. If you don't mind an ugly box....With the box you posted above, I would first try and cut those holes nicer and sand the inside and outside of the circle. Basically make it as rounded over as possible. Then work on the port. Sand, sand, sand. Round over the port on the inside, no sharp edges. Then outside of the port. Round the outside edges, making a kind of flare. I gained more doing this rather than using pvc, as seen in the spl gains thread on here. But that did gain me a few tenths though and look prettier with duct tape. But anyways.

How is the speaker wires ran through the box? Use bolts, just don't use those terminal things, never had much luck with them. Or just do a smal hole and run the wires through it and caulk it. And I would run another metal thread between the subs.

Then, box placement, I gained a whole db in my suv doing sub and port up. So if you can move that box, turn it over, subs up, port firing up on the driver side. Good luck!

'11, '12, '13, and '14 Meca Street 2 AL State Champ

AL Meca Street 2 Record Holder(151.6)

2012 Meca Street 2 World Finals - 3rd Place(148.7)

2013 Meca Street 2 World Finals - 2nd Place(151.1)

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i have to box port up sub up port on passenger side. i would turn the box around so that its facing up but with port on driver side but then i would have to move the amp, battery ect ect. and there just isnt enough room to move the battery anywhere else. the inside of the port is rounded, but there isnt a 45 in the port where it turns. i know it can help and its on my to do list. the wires are going straight to the box just like how you explained it. i dont have the meter but i can get it metered about every 2 weeks at no cost with the same meter everytime. im leaning towards building a new box with round ports since ive heard a good amount of people have had better luck with round ports. i just cant find a way to do it sub up port back with enough room between the port and back of the car. i could if i dont do subs up port back but there has been people who have had better luck subs up port back.

the max dimensions i can go is 18.75 high x 37.75 wide x 17 deep. i want the box to be at/around 4 cuft after all displacement with a box tuning around 40-45hz. it seems to like peaking at 44hz sub up port up and 51hz sub back port back. so if the box is deisgned to peak between 44-51hz is where i should be peaking with sub up port back, or atleast thats what im guessing. for the cost of 2 more sheets of mdf i can build another slot port box. i have plenty of wood glue, caulking and threaded rod for another box build or 2 just have to buy more wood.

i do have a competition im going to on the 26th and i would like to be at or above 145 so im gonna try to gain a little by rounding the outside of the port and adding a 45 to the inside of the port an atleast sand the inisde of the port some if i can get enough time. if i can find a way to more the box so the port is on the driver side and find something to do with the battery then i will. just hoping to be at or above 146 by the end of the summer.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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so could being slightly high on port area make me lose db? the torres box calc says 48-64" and im at 67".

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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