PropertyCO Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Rangers come stock with a 90amp alternator, My system runs around 1200w to 1300w total, including subs and mids/highs. i'm no electrician and i'm sure there's more math involved in this, but my math says 1000w should be a draw of 80 or so amps off my battery, head lights dim during burps, but my voltage generally sits around 14.3 and drops down to 13.8 or so at the least. Sits at a steady 14.8 without any music playing. So I guess I have a few questions... 1. Will a second battery help cure dimming or voltage drop 2. If the second battery won't help/cure the problem, will an upgraded alternator do the job? 3. My truck's a 4 cyl, already lacks in horse power (80hp if that) is a higher output alternator going to put extra stress on the engine? it's already horrible driving a four cylinder with ac on cause it robs my truck of acceleration, I'm afraid a better alternator will be too cumbersome for the little thing. Quote 1997 Ford Ranger 2 - Rockford Fosgate P3 600w 12s 1 - Soundstream Rubicon 1.1000d Pioneer Mids/highs Blacked out tail lights (removable, done with 20% static cling tint) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doodcody Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 honestly with your voltage drop that low you you could get away with just 0 guage wire front to back and the big 3.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac N Cheese Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 So correct me if I am wrong but you are only dropping to 13.8v while playing at idle? If so I wouldn't worry about it.... First thing I would do to save money would be do the big 3 under the hood and go from there. Monitor your voltage after that and proceed if it's a must. Quote 2005 VW GTI 1.8T (4) Fi BTL N2 15s/ 4th order bandpass (2) Crescendo BC5500s Crescendo c1000.4 (4) Selenium 6w4p (Q logic Kicks) Crescendo FT1 tweeters 3 runs of 4/0 Too much 1/0 DC power Engineering 320 XP ~235A at idle 3 XS D3100s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) yes, yes and no do the big three and you will see improvements if not a complete fix. Edit: I would add a battery if you don't want to pay big bucks for a high output alternator. just remember that batteries only store power and the alt is still putting out the same amount of current Edited July 10, 2012 by Crandis16 Quote My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) do big 3, add a bat if thats not enough. then add a capacitor. I know guys that no one likes caps but if electrical is behind it and you get a good cap that does what it is rated at then that does help. or get HIDs i have noticed less dimming with HIDs. or get a H/O alt. all viable options Edited July 10, 2012 by Bump4life Quote Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PropertyCO Posted July 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) For the big three i've done ground wires, but the 2.3l engine i have doesn't have a easy way to get an upgraded power wire hooked from the alternator to the battery... And I guess i should've specified those voltages are while driving, I don't idle much in my vehicle so i guess i haven't checked it at an idle yet. I have 4 guage cable ran to the amp, and it's grounded straight to the battery not the chassis, I'd imagine that'd be enough, maybe i'm wrong? And if i were to get a second battery, if they vary in quality, is there a preference on which one i should use as the primary under the hood? wonder why this is so cheap compared to the other ones i've looked at. This is a lot of questions, i know, so thanks for the help guys! Edited July 10, 2012 by PropertyCO Quote 1997 Ford Ranger 2 - Rockford Fosgate P3 600w 12s 1 - Soundstream Rubicon 1.1000d Pioneer Mids/highs Blacked out tail lights (removable, done with 20% static cling tint) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 xs power. get biggest one that will fit under hood. that should be enough for whole system Quote Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario928 Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 For the big three i've done ground wires, but the 2.3l engine i have doesn't have a easy way to get an upgraded power wire hooked from the alternator to the battery... And I guess i should've specified those voltages are while driving, I don't idle much in my vehicle so i guess i haven't checked it at an idle yet. I have 4 guage cable ran to the amp, and it's grounded straight to the battery not the chassis, I'd imagine that'd be enough, maybe i'm wrong? And if i were to get a second battery, if they vary in quality, is there a preference on which one i should use as the primary under the hood? wonder why this is so cheap compared to the other ones i've looked at. This is a lot of questions, i know, so thanks for the help guys! This one https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/1997~Ford~Ranger~2.3L-I4/7768-6k-190-oem.html is the same price. Quote Build Under Construction Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514 Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4 Battery = XS D3400 Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger Mids and Highs = Stock Sub= Kicker L7 12" Alternator = 220 Mechman Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario928 Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 xs power. get biggest one that will fit under hood. that should be enough for whole system Do the big three as well. Quote Build Under Construction Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514 Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4 Battery = XS D3400 Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger Mids and Highs = Stock Sub= Kicker L7 12" Alternator = 220 Mechman Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario928 Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Also don't add a capacitor it will stress the alternator. Quote Build Under Construction Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514 Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4 Battery = XS D3400 Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger Mids and Highs = Stock Sub= Kicker L7 12" Alternator = 220 Mechman Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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