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Everything posted by PropertyCO
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I'm friends with mine, we get 3-4 packages a week here, and even when we're not here the UPS guy will make sure he leaves treats for us to give to the dogs. As for the UPS > FedEx all day thing, i agree completely, seems as though some companys are just crappy all the way through, like autozone seems to be much friendlier and nicer than carquest, etc. and i had the same problem with a laptop, he took it right back, he said the box looked damaged so he wanted us to check it and make sure it was ok before he even left.
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have fun cooling it?
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can 10's get loud? low?
PropertyCO replied to AB18VFL's topic in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
kick ass, had it metered? -
Is that actually bad? If you have the gain down it shouldnt be a problem... should it? yes, amps dont like having power and searching for signal to put out that just isnt there, i dont know the reasoning behind it, but i know they really dont like it. Learned this when working on my system, class a/b amp without rcas plugged into it, got hot enough to burn my hand...
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I haven't found one in a junkyard in my area, but i have tried lol. I never considered foam before. I will look into that. Not sure about trim pieces, but car-parts.com is a database used by body shops and salvage yards for parts, maybe they have what you need?
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I guess this isn't necessarily mine, but i did a quit a bit of work on it. But i figured i might as well show off something i've done. This is a quick run through of the work done on my father's mustang It was bought for $6,500 with barely 19,000 miles on it, the person who owned it before us had apparently tried to drive through a set of yellow poles and failed. After a few thousand mile trip to baton rogue and back to get it we started on the work... So, $6,500 for the car, $2,000 for paint, $2,500 for a saleen body kit and various other parts like a ram air hood, headlights, etc... The black paint is actually a metalic flake paint called carbon black, it's actually a gm color. i also plan on painting my 81 goldwing the same color. Total time the project took was around 5 months, so i'll summarize the 200 pictures i have into a handful. A few before pictures: and the work begins: After new doors and fenders, which removing the old doors involved cutting them open with a metabo. And after a few hours with the porta power and a few body hammers, bondo work begins. And me doing a bit of wetsanding... during the final buffing: Rims painted with the same paint as the car, red is also metal flake.
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people over at fixmyspeaker can repair them for you, or sell you the parts.
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Listen to these people, don't get any rubbing compound that isn't 3m, actually, practically anytime that you have an option to buy a 3m product instead of a different brand, you're generally better off going with the 3m. Don't think i've ever seen a 3m product that didn't keep up to my expectations. yeah I'm going to take it to somone when i want it buffed. It's good for now I just hate seeing the swirls Make sure you go to a well reputed detailer, a lot of the cheaply ran ones will end up with more damage than you started with....
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90amp stock alternator isn't enough.
PropertyCO replied to PropertyCO's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
For the big three i've done ground wires, but the 2.3l engine i have doesn't have a easy way to get an upgraded power wire hooked from the alternator to the battery... And I guess i should've specified those voltages are while driving, I don't idle much in my vehicle so i guess i haven't checked it at an idle yet. I have 4 guage cable ran to the amp, and it's grounded straight to the battery not the chassis, I'd imagine that'd be enough, maybe i'm wrong? And if i were to get a second battery, if they vary in quality, is there a preference on which one i should use as the primary under the hood? wonder why this is so cheap compared to the other ones i've looked at. This is a lot of questions, i know, so thanks for the help guys! -
Rangers come stock with a 90amp alternator, My system runs around 1200w to 1300w total, including subs and mids/highs. i'm no electrician and i'm sure there's more math involved in this, but my math says 1000w should be a draw of 80 or so amps off my battery, head lights dim during burps, but my voltage generally sits around 14.3 and drops down to 13.8 or so at the least. Sits at a steady 14.8 without any music playing. So I guess I have a few questions... 1. Will a second battery help cure dimming or voltage drop 2. If the second battery won't help/cure the problem, will an upgraded alternator do the job? 3. My truck's a 4 cyl, already lacks in horse power (80hp if that) is a higher output alternator going to put extra stress on the engine? it's already horrible driving a four cylinder with ac on cause it robs my truck of acceleration, I'm afraid a better alternator will be too cumbersome for the little thing.
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Stop sound leakage?
PropertyCO replied to Adil Thanawala's topic in Pro Audio / Home Audio / Home Theatre
put a seal around your door, don't let air out. -
plasti-dip?
PropertyCO replied to 95legwagon's topic in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
it's a bit thicker than paint iirc, i'd imagine it'd soak up a lot less?