Redcorn245 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 yeah a bigger box would be better for less power i guess. but it would make more sense to me that more power would mean a bigger box would be better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honolulublue Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 yeah a bigger box would be better for less power i guess. but it would make more sense to me that more power would mean a bigger box would be better More air for the driver to move compensating for the extra power and the box will not be so boomy. But it is just a theory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 More power=smaller box, because the sub is going to be pushed past its mechanical limits, and the smaller box helps out on the mechanical part of the sub (not bottoming out, etc) Less power=bigger box, since the sub won't be pushed to its max, take advantage of the larger enclosure to get more output, but if you do this with overpowering, goodbye woofers. woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Like I said in a previous post - the issue is that you don't just lose efficiency/gain power handling with a smaller box, you also lose low frequency response and cause a larger peak above the tuning frequency. The best bet for a daily music box is still to design it based on the driver and the goals you have, and then don't drive it past the mechanical or thermal limits. In most cases, the efficiency makes up for the decrease in mechanical power handling. If you can't do that and get the output you want, look for a different sub or use multiple subs. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honolulublue Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Like I said in a previous post - the issue is that you don't just lose efficiency/gain power handling with a smaller box, you also lose low frequency response and cause a larger peak above the tuning frequency. The best bet for a daily music box is still to design it based on the driver and the goals you have, and then don't drive it past the mechanical or thermal limits. In most cases, the efficiency makes up for the decrease in mechanical power handling. If you can't do that and get the output you want, look for a different sub or use multiple subs. Profoundly stated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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