FrontierGello Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 15 inch midbass and 12 inch midrange raw drivers and bullet tweeters. Is it too big and heavy? planning to put it in the front doors. i want to have some loud mid's and high's will it sound great? help? Nissan Frontier 10" Cadence Midbass 8" Cadnece Midrange Bullet tweets 2 Re audio Sxx 15 Subs Mechman 270a 2 Re XT4000deV3 mono 1600 rms 1 Re XT400deV3 Bridged 350x2 2 Cadence 175.4 Bridged 350x2 Audiomaxx and Stinger 0,4,8,12 awg wires Dynamat sound deadeners My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...__+1999 +nissan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I say go for it I am doing something similar to my malibu this winter. 10" sealed midrange (eminence), and a 12" midbass (peavey), along with my ID horns. I would go active and mount the 12" and tweeter in the door and put the 15" in it's own enclosure in the rear by the subs. Should kick as providing you don't cross the midbass higher than 500 hz. Might draw the stage back. Do you want to go active or passive? What kind of vehicle? Budget? 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barney91 Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Are bigger midbass midrange louder and clearer then normal size ones, for example 8" midbass and a 6" midrange Alpine 9884 RF T2 comp set up front The Epicenter 2x RF T10001bd 2x Sundown sa-15 t-line Big 3 Smd DD-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Are bigger midbass midrange louder and clearer then normal size ones, for example 8" midbass and a 6" midrange Not cleaner necessarily, Larger midrange will have a lot of directivity depending on size and freq. It's called lobing. This isn't always a bad thing. They can be cleaner though due to the fact they don't have to work as hard to produce the same freq. It's much easier for a 10" to play 80 hz then say a 6" There isn't any hard and fast rules. I would go with a $150 6" midrange rather than a 10" for twenty bux. You know what I mean? 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 i would never recommend this. getting a 12" to accurately play up to 3000hz If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrontierGello Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I say go for it I am doing something similar to my malibu this winter. 10" sealed midrange (eminence), and a 12" midbass (peavey), along with my ID horns. I would go active and mount the 12" and tweeter in the door and put the 15" in it's own enclosure in the rear by the subs. Should kick as providing you don't cross the midbass higher than 500 hz. Might draw the stage back. Do you want to go active or passive? What kind of vehicle? Budget? It's a 1999 nissan frontier. Going active. My dad has some Jbl Pro's 15inch and a 12inch Philips and a bullet tweeter at his garage and i'm planning to put it to my nissan. But the 15's gonna need some big enclosure. will it sound great? Nissan Frontier 10" Cadence Midbass 8" Cadnece Midrange Bullet tweets 2 Re audio Sxx 15 Subs Mechman 270a 2 Re XT4000deV3 mono 1600 rms 1 Re XT400deV3 Bridged 350x2 2 Cadence 175.4 Bridged 350x2 Audiomaxx and Stinger 0,4,8,12 awg wires Dynamat sound deadeners My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...__+1999 +nissan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barney91 Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Are bigger midbass midrange louder and clearer then normal size ones, for example 8" midbass and a 6" midrange Not cleaner necessarily, Larger midrange will have a lot of directivity depending on size and freq. It's called lobing. This isn't always a bad thing. They can be cleaner though due to the fact they don't have to work as hard to produce the same freq. It's much easier for a 10" to play 80 hz then say a 6" There isn't any hard and fast rules. I would go with a $150 6" midrange rather than a 10" for twenty bux. You know what I mean? Yeah i do get what you mean, but would such a big midrange play the higher notes like 2k 3k or 4k without sound like poop Alpine 9884 RF T2 comp set up front The Epicenter 2x RF T10001bd 2x Sundown sa-15 t-line Big 3 Smd DD-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 it wont sound great. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Are bigger midbass midrange louder and clearer then normal size ones, for example 8" midbass and a 6" midrange Not cleaner necessarily, Larger midrange will have a lot of directivity depending on size and freq. It's called lobing. This isn't always a bad thing. They can be cleaner though due to the fact they don't have to work as hard to produce the same freq. It's much easier for a 10" to play 80 hz then say a 6" There isn't any hard and fast rules. I would go with a $150 6" midrange rather than a 10" for twenty bux. You know what I mean? Yeah i do get what you mean, but would such a big midrange play the higher notes like 2k 3k or 4k without sound like poop I wouldn't want to take a 12" to 4k that's for sure. At 3k you would need to have some pretty steep slopes (24db+) to make it work. I have no real experience taking a 12" that high but I wouldn't use that as an excuse not to try it. Will it sound good? With the proper drivers and a gaggle of dsp I could see it working. It isn't for everyone though. I say go for it I am doing something similar to my malibu this winter. 10" sealed midrange (eminence), and a 12" midbass (peavey), along with my ID horns. I would go active and mount the 12" and tweeter in the door and put the 15" in it's own enclosure in the rear by the subs. Should kick as providing you don't cross the midbass higher than 500 hz. Might draw the stage back. Do you want to go active or passive? What kind of vehicle? Budget? It's a 1999 nissan frontier. Going active. My dad has some Jbl Pro's 15inch and a 12inch Philips and a bullet tweeter at his garage and i'm planning to put it to my nissan. But the 15's gonna need some big enclosure. will it sound great? I have no experience with those drivers so I would do a little more research on the speakers you have and see if they are suitable for it. If you have the money for glass, mdf, and another pair of door panels I would go for it. Skittles could be right and there is little info on the subject I have been able to find so the only way to find if you like it and will work is to experiment. Finding a x-over point that transitions well would be the first task and you may need something other than a bullet tweeter as they tend to cross closer to 5k. Maybe a ribbon tweeter or horn would work better as it would play lower. Midbass 80-500 Midrange 500-2-2.5k Tweeter 2.5-20k I could see this working with steep slopes even with a 12" as a midrange. Not everyone will agree though which is why I say try it and see if you like it. There are rules to sq but what people percieve as sq is subjective 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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