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Image Dynamics 12D4v3 - $170 a good price?


wellington

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Guy selling it for $175 on CL

About the only decent sub I can find, other than a Fi Q 10" and DD 18". 10" is too small, 18" needs too many cubes

Sonic says it needs about 2-2.75 cubes but I am going for the low lows and would like to tune it to 28hz and make the box maybe 3 cubes aero ported? What do you guys thing?

Right now I'm on a performance teknique sub that is a little better than my JL12w3v3-4.

My only other option is to fix my mojo 15" for $100 which would make it handle 750w rms (was 400w rms and took whatever the saz1500d dished out on 1 ohm with stock electrical - and I'm pretty sure the only reason it fried was I let it get passed 14v sometimes)

I was reading youtube comments about ticking due to the coil being so close to the magnet - would the ticking be a good indication of overpowering and act as a warning? Or if done too much, would it damage the sub?

I would be powering it in 2 ohm from the saz1500d v1. I also have an alpin mrp m500 500w rms @ 2 ohms. Would that be a better option for longevity of the sub?

I have a 1.75 f^3 box ported, 32hz - would that be good enough to test the sub with?

And finally, is $170 a good price? I know it's $400 on sonic but online prices aren't always valid.

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2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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That's an SQ sub, and handles a fair amount of power, like 2.3 cubes net would be ok for it ported, the company has had issues and don't know if a recone would be easy to get from them so you need to run some good tests on it before buying.

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That's an SQ sub, and handles a fair amount of power, like 2.3 cubes net would be ok for it ported, the company has had issues and don't know if a recone would be easy to get from them so you need to run some good tests on it before buying.

What kind of tests? I already know to check the coils with a dmm.

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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Well when you have an item sold for less than half it's price new you have to be careful, so test the coils but the best test is to place the sub inside a proper box and play it to rated and leave it 10 min playing, if you can smell anything or hear any (mechanical) noise you are not good, many times the same test on free air will not reveal a problem. Also check it physically to find some evidence of repair.

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Well when you have an item sold for less than half it's price new you have to be careful, so test the coils but the best test is to place the sub inside a proper box and play it to rated and leave it 10 min playing, if you can smell anything or hear any (mechanical) noise you are not good, many times the same test on free air will not reveal a problem. Also check it physically to find some evidence of repair.

Damn, that kind of makes it difficult since I would only be building a proper box after I purchased the sub.

How big is the margin for box sizing? If it recommends 2-2.75 ported and I have 1.75 and invert the sub, how far off would it be from optimal? What would it change? Would it handle more or less? Box is tuned to 32hz btw...

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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If the sub is inverted you likely wont easily be able to smell the coils, install it in the box you have and push it hard. Whatever you do pay close attention to details, many people have got burnt in these "deals", if you read around for a while you will notice, also try to do some research on the seller if possible if you found that on the internet.

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If the sub is inverted you likely wont easily be able to smell the coils, install it in the box you have and push it hard. Whatever you do pay close attention to details, many people have got burnt in these "deals", if you read around for a while you will notice, also try to do some research on the seller if possible if you found that on the internet.

Wouldn't the coils be exposed and thus easier to smell compared to in the box? And I wanted to invert it to get that extra space gained.

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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Better cooling inverted.

Damn, you got me there. Now you got me thinking about running a temp sensor to record the difference. But before I do that, any ideas on how much better cooling would be with inverted vs not?

2010 HHR LT - DNX 6160 - sony xec-700 - sony xm-4040 for door mids - XM-6020 for tweets in a-pillar - saz1500d v1 - VVME RD-12 1.75 f^3 32hz

guru and president of the "cheap asses trying to beat up the block with bargain bin woofers" club

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Better cooling inverted.

Damn, you got me there. Now you got me thinking about running a temp sensor to record the difference. But before I do that, any ideas on how much better cooling would be with inverted vs not?

The better cooling down can help mask an issue, that's part of the reason that a free air test doesn't help much to spot some problems like an abused coil.

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