Neckbeard Posted November 29, 2012 Report Posted November 29, 2012 So, My build is going to be 1 DC level 5 18" on a DC 3.5k. Then i starting looking at trucks because i wanted to do a blow through. But got to thinking a 18 is pretty big to be fitting into a bed the way i want it. Then i thought about putting 8 8"s in the bed. The 8's would be (Because DC doesnt have the 8s ready, damn you rusty!!! just playing, don't hurt me) Would be the E series 8"s. The cone area for a single 18 is 254.47, The cone area for 8 8's is 402.16. Would this be a better way to go considering more cone area? or am i just a dumb ass Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
Neckbeard Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Posted November 29, 2012 Also,IF i wanted to, i could step it up to 10 8"s Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
Socky Posted November 29, 2012 Report Posted November 29, 2012 i would change the title name, you cant have vs threads Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell Kenwood H/U 1/0 wire, 136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily 2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's 3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz
Neckbeard Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Posted November 29, 2012 how do i change it?!?! >< Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
Socky Posted November 29, 2012 Report Posted November 29, 2012 Should be a edit near the top says like edit orginal post, then you can change the title. Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell Kenwood H/U 1/0 wire, 136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily 2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's 3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz
Blackedout Posted November 29, 2012 Report Posted November 29, 2012 The cone area is there. In a perfect world, it has all the potential to be louder. But in reality, the more drivers you have, the more you'll be fighting cancellation. An 8" sub isn't an efficient use of space either... Say The maximum height of your bed rail is 16", you have to make the box longer than it needs to be to accommodate the space of all 8 8" subs, since you can't mount them on the baffle 2 subs high. Trunk Build Log
Neckbeard Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Posted November 29, 2012 So 8's are a no go? Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
Blackedout Posted November 29, 2012 Report Posted November 29, 2012 I'm not going to tell you not to. Determine the height between the bottom of the bed and the bottom of the frame rail. After you include the total width of the top and bottom baffles you want to use, how much space do you have to work with? Say you end up with 17" on the baffle that the subs are going to be mounted to... 15s are going to accommodate that space a little more efficiently. Are you catching my drift? Trunk Build Log
Noel989 Posted November 29, 2012 Report Posted November 29, 2012 Aside from the cone area and all the other things to consider I would go with the 10 8's just cause I've already had an 18 to change it up But that's just me Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/
Neckbeard Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Posted November 29, 2012 I'm not going to tell you not to. Determine the height between the bottom of the bed and the bottom of the frame rail. After you include the total width of the top and bottom baffles you want to use, how much space do you have to work with? Say you end up with 17" on the baffle that the subs are going to be mounted to... 15s are going to accommodate that space a little more efficiently. Are you catching my drift? The problem is i havent got a truck yet haha. But i really want a old school Chevy LUV. And those beds are not tall what so ever. the wood would be 1" MDF, no double baffle or anything Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
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