scooter99 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Next up is the back wall. and finally the top. Measurements are perfect! Now it's time to cut some shit out! My trusty little router with my home made circle jig! Had to add a hole for the 15. My pin! Ready to go! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Sub hole! Next was to cut out the port hole. Flush trim bit! squared up! Now it's time for a little roundover! How's it fit? Like a glove! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Had to address the dual 45* corners. They needed countersunk predrills and then to be glued and screwed! Glued and Screwed! Drippy mess! And cleaned that up a little! So that's really it for now. Remember everything is pretty much only held on by a couple screws. I need to remove the port inner wall and glue and screw it together again. It can stay together permanently. But as I said after trying it, it'll have to be built inside the trunk. I countersunk all the holes so that I could easily get it together but it's looking like I won't even be able to use those holes. I'm thinking at this point that I may have to cut a bunch of 3/4" x 3/4" strips to put on the inside corners. I'll probably round those off to get the square edges off of them, and then use those to glue and screw on from the inside. Then fiberglass over them once it's all together. So that's about where I'm at now. It's time to go out and see about doing some work! Be back a bit later! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Wow, 2 pages of pictures and nothing. Football must be on! Well here's a little more. These are the spots I'm looking at in placing the face plate. Spot one, under the HVAC controls under the dash kit. I'd have to do a pod to put under there but that's no big deal. But it brings my eyes down below the dash line and I think I'd have to actually have to drop my head down to look for it. Don't like that. Then there's this spot, which i'd only have to do a slight pod for but it still pulls my eyes down to search for the face plate. Not sure about this one either. This was my original thought, just above the rear view mirror. Believe it or not, this is easy to look at cause I'm just glancing at the rear view mirror anyway, and this puts it just above that. However, what I don't like about it, is it seems bulky and like it doesn't belong. This is another version of that, where I do a pod in front of the light area. This I'm not fond of cause it's closer to in my face than it appears. Not good. This is my favorite one! I took the light piece out and felt in behind the headliner, and there's nothing under there. So I could move the lights and switches (sunroof and lights) up and then put the faceplate counter sunk into the old light area. This would put it still within eye glance, and very low profile and sleek! I think this is my favorite. It's all going to depend on the ability of how far I can extend the face plate. If I can get 10 - 12 feet out of it, then it'll be a go! If not, then I'll need to go below the dash. I'll start on that next! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04murdalanche Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Niiiice, love it. And I'm taking notes with you r box building for when I build mine this week(: Keep it up man! It's gonna be nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04murdalanche Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Oh yeah, how did you do the homemade circle jig? You can PM me if you want so I don't clog your build thread lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 It's all good. I took a piece of 1/4" x 4" poplar and cut it down. Then I took the plexi glass plate, that comes with the trim router I have, off and used it to center the hole for the bits, as well as the holes for the screws. Then I screwed it to the router, did a center line on the wood from the center of the shank. From there you just figure out what bit you're using, and what speaker or sub you're using. Take the cut out diameter of them, split it in half, and that's what you measure from the outside of your bit to the center point of the hole you drill on the panel. Mark it so you have a reference for the future, and router it out. I drop short distances at a time, usually take 3 or 4 passes in a 3/4" piece. Hope that helps everyone. I'm working on the tablet molding now, and it's going great!!! Be back with pics later! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrangeJuiced Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Looking great man. I love the idea of moving the faceplate like that and the box looks emaculate. Can't wait for more progress. 2001 GMC Sierra Build. Body dropped and Juiced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Thanks! That means alot coming from you! Just uploaded a bunch, but I'm not done yet, so I will upload and post the rest later. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04murdalanche Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 It's all good. I took a piece of 1/4" x 4" poplar and cut it down. Then I took the plexi glass plate, that comes with the trim router I have, off and used it to center the hole for the bits, as well as the holes for the screws. Then I screwed it to the router, did a center line on the wood from the center of the shank. From there you just figure out what bit you're using, and what speaker or sub you're using. Take the cut out diameter of them, split it in half, and that's what you measure from the outside of your bit to the center point of the hole you drill on the panel. Mark it so you have a reference for the future, and router it out. I drop short distances at a time, usually take 3 or 4 passes in a 3/4" piece. Hope that helps everyone. I'm working on the tablet molding now, and it's going great!!! Be back with pics later! **bows down** I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy!! Thanks so much man(: will save me the $20+ for a circle jig lol, I appreciate it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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