TigerTony Posted December 11, 2012 Report Posted December 11, 2012 not too sure if this was the right section but its part of car electrical. I went to autozone to get my engine light checked and they said my cam sensor is starting to go bad. How hard is it to replace the cam sensor on your own?
mikelbolton Posted December 11, 2012 Report Posted December 11, 2012 We'll need more information than that to answer your question. I'm assuming you're referring to a CPS (camshaft position sensor)? Edit: Please post: year, make, model If at all possible, the actual alphanumerical code that they found 2011 Chevrolet Aveo(click for build log)Clarion NX-603SKAR 4500.1DIraggi 320A alt Knukonceptz 1/0 Kollosus Fleks Cable8 AWG Sky High Car Audio OFC 1/0- Sky High Car Audio 2- XP3000 XS Power BatteriesSMD VM-12- 12" Ascendant Audio Mayhems Toolmaker Fuse block Toolmaker Bus Bars (Last Season scores 1-15" Mayhem) 145.2 dB- Sealed @ NSPL World Finals (9/28/14) 148.1 dB- Hardcore @ NSPL World Finals (9/27/14) 150.23-- Hardcore on 4500 Watts!!!! New Build (2015, 2-12" Mayhems) 146.9- Sealed on dash 149.6 dB- Hardcore in Kick (No wall 0-24" Hardcore)
TigerTony Posted December 11, 2012 Author Report Posted December 11, 2012 Didnt tell me the code but did say that it needed to be replaced after reading it out. 1998 buick century. i know its somewhere under my power steering fluid. but im not surehow hard itll actually be to get to it and replace it.
mikelbolton Posted December 11, 2012 Report Posted December 11, 2012 Is that the 3.1L engine? 2011 Chevrolet Aveo(click for build log)Clarion NX-603SKAR 4500.1DIraggi 320A alt Knukonceptz 1/0 Kollosus Fleks Cable8 AWG Sky High Car Audio OFC 1/0- Sky High Car Audio 2- XP3000 XS Power BatteriesSMD VM-12- 12" Ascendant Audio Mayhems Toolmaker Fuse block Toolmaker Bus Bars (Last Season scores 1-15" Mayhem) 145.2 dB- Sealed @ NSPL World Finals (9/28/14) 148.1 dB- Hardcore @ NSPL World Finals (9/27/14) 150.23-- Hardcore on 4500 Watts!!!! New Build (2015, 2-12" Mayhems) 146.9- Sealed on dash 149.6 dB- Hardcore in Kick (No wall 0-24" Hardcore)
TigerTony Posted December 12, 2012 Author Report Posted December 12, 2012 Is that the 3.1L engine? yeah, Sorry for the slow reply, i had an exam today. I looked at it and i'm not too sure how to get under the power steering fluid. Im sure i'll have to take the serpentine belt out though.
Tarball Posted December 12, 2012 Report Posted December 12, 2012 I havent worked on that engine specifically but if it is indeed behind the power steering pump than it is best to remove the pump. for your review http://www.automotiveforums.com/t364092-discuss1998_cam_position_sensor_location_.html CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
02 GAGT Posted December 12, 2012 Report Posted December 12, 2012 It will take roughly 1 hour to do, it is under the power steering pump right infront of the LIM it's not a hard job just make Shure you put oil on the O-ring before you put it back in or you can leak oil
btotheeck Posted January 3, 2013 Report Posted January 3, 2013 This is probably too late, but I have dealt with a Crank Position Sensor code before and it was actually a bad alternator. My car's crank position sensor is a hall-effect sensor and measures AC ripple caused by a raised portion of the Cam sprocket passing by the electromagnetic sensor with each revolution of the cam. Since my alt was bad (bad rectifier/regulator) excessive AC ripple (electrical noise) was entering my electrical system, causing the sensor to see an irregular signal. Before replacing your cam/crank sensor ($$$ & time), try eliminating the alternator as the culprit.
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