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Pro Audio Subwoofers In A Car Audio Setup


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oh so hes not getting loud, i was under a different impression.

Huh? I think the message here is clear: you shouldn't purchase a driver for a purpose other than it's intended use.

I'm gonna hate

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I did pro audio in my neon and chevette subs cost $49 each

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I used a visonik 900HC..

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I use a rodek 2300! on the subs/ woofers lol..

No warranty

95 civic

air-ride RE-5 slam specialties

4-18's Dc xlm2's tuned 35hz

2-1100.1's @ .35 each

2-SD 250.2 nano amps

3-deka 9a31 1-deka 35ah

2-250 amp alts/ Adjustable regulator

159 sealed @ dash 51hz

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Thanks for the help guys, I had no idea the topic had taken off after I stopped monitoring it. This is what I thought would be the case. The Pro Audio subs might be louder at higher frequencies but the SP4 will be much better in the lows which is what I want so I will be keeping my setup with the SP4. Maybe even adding another one soon.

(Old Car) 1995 Volkswagon Golf MK3 2.0L:

Fi SP4 18 On A DC Audio 3.5K In A PWK Box

Hertz DSK 6" Speakers, Clarion HU

3x Fullriver 120aH AGM's, 225A Alt

2012 Subaru BRZ:

Audison Prima APK 163

Bit One, Rockford Amps, Audison Sub

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All depends on the sub and enclosure. To say one is specifically only good at one thing is just uneducated.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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All depends on the sub and enclosure. To say one is specifically only good at one thing is just uneducated.

Uneducated? Care to elaborate on that? Seems most people in the forum will agree if a Pro Audio sub put against a Car Audio sub - The car audio sub will be louder at lower frequencies which makes sense because for example my sub the Fi SP4 is described as being a ground pounder and is able to be very loud and very low. In concert and other Pro Audio situations frequencies that low don't really work in an open area.

(Old Car) 1995 Volkswagon Golf MK3 2.0L:

Fi SP4 18 On A DC Audio 3.5K In A PWK Box

Hertz DSK 6" Speakers, Clarion HU

3x Fullriver 120aH AGM's, 225A Alt

2012 Subaru BRZ:

Audison Prima APK 163

Bit One, Rockford Amps, Audison Sub

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All depends on the sub and enclosure. To say one is specifically only good at one thing is just uneducated.

Uneducated? Care to elaborate on that? Seems most people in the forum will agree if a Pro Audio sub put against a Car Audio sub - The car audio sub will be louder at lower frequencies which makes sense because for example my sub the Fi SP4 is described as being a ground pounder and is able to be very loud and very low. In concert and other Pro Audio situations frequencies that low don't really work in an open area.

Already told you in the material you quoted. Read it slowly and let it sink in.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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