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Challenging box design?


Tim2902

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As I read through this section I see there seem to be a lot of helpful guys with box designs and guidance. So I'm hoping maybe someone has the time to help out.

I've built plenty of regular boxes and have been sharpening my skills, although still pretty much a beginner. I have a 97 Mitsubishi Eclipse and I'm trying to figure out a new box for my new subs. The outside dimensions of my current box are pretty much as big as I can fit in my hatch. The current box is subs and port facing back (or front if I spin the box around). If I face them back, the subs are about an inch (at best) from the back interior panels. If I face them forward, they are all over my amp rack, which I've built between the strut towers and so that when the back seat is up, it is flush with the front of the amp rack.

So it seems that my only option to give the subs room is to put them, and the port(s) in the top of the box firing into the back hatch. It seems that acoustically, this might be the best option anyway. So here we go as to equipment and goals...

Head Unit is a Pioneer DEH-7200HD

Front stage is a pair of Rockford Prime 5 1/4s in the doors and a pair of Rockford Prime 6x9s in the factory sail panel location. All powered off of a JL Audio 300/4.

Subs are 2 JL Audio 12w6v2-D4 powered off of a JL Audio 1000/1 wired to the amp at 4 ohms.

My goals are:

I'd like to get the most SPL out of this setup, however, I want to try my hand at a little bass racing. So I need to do it on music. However, I'm not sure of the best frequency to tune the box to in order to accomplish this with these subs and power. JL recommends 1.5 ft^2 per sub and 32 Hz. But other more real world suggestions are welcomed to accomplish this goal

I've done enough normal square boxes both sealed and ported. But I'd like to step up my game a bit and try my hand at kerfing, and making some braces for the inside of the box (if we decide they would fit and/or be helpful. I also want to do a double baffle and flush mount the subs. I could go with two single kerfed ports, or one long single kerfed port. But I'd really like to try a single, double kerfed port between the subs if possible. I'm also going to use birch for this project.

With all of that said, the dimensions I have in the hatch area are 34" wide max, 18" Deep (although I might be able to go an inch, maybe two if necessary deeper), and 13.5" tall (again, I might be able to go 1/2" or so taller but at the rearmost end of the box it starts getting really close to the hatch.

I've been playing with SketchUp trying to get this figured out but I am struggling.

So there we go... Anybody want to suggest tuning and/or tackle designing this? If we get the design done, I'll be sure to post pictures of the build, including mistakes, and the finished product. We'll just call it a collaboration.

Here is the area I have to work with with the bottom shelf of the amp rack laying where it goes and the subfloor in.

IMG_2186_zps12951d54.jpg

And here is the amp rack:

IMG_2202_zpscbbcc26d.jpg

And here is the current box in the car with the amp rack...

IMG_2203_zpsb6d6907f.jpg

And lastly, here is why the current box wont work and the subs and port need to fire up...

IMG_2208_zps3bee36bd.jpg

Any help at all will be greatly appreciated! :)

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Dang... Two days and no responses. I would have figured on a forum this big there might be someone with the knowledge and skills to help me out. It's not like I'm looking for something for nothing. I wouldn't mind paying someone for their time and experience...

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