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t1500


jmfrb1

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Posted

Id sell the cap, do big 3 in 0 gauge, and upgrade the front battery to a nice AGM at least.

edit: What vehicle is it and how many amps is the stock alternator putting out? What kind of wire do you have? Id get OFC 4 gauge or bigger not CCA wire unless its 0 gauge in which case Id still pay more to get OFC.

Posted

Id sell the cap, do big 3 in 0 gauge, and upgrade the front battery to a nice AGM at least.

edit: What vehicle is it and how many amps is the stock alternator putting out? What kind of wire do you have? Id get OFC 4 gauge or bigger not CCA wire unless its 0 gauge in which case Id still pay more to get OFC.

2003 mitsu galant. I'm running the 4g ofc wire from the batt to them amp right now. I'll def do the big three asap I just have since for some reason Mitsubishi decided to run the batt to alt wire behind the damn block. Would a yellow top work?
Posted

Id sell the cap, do big 3 in 0 gauge, and upgrade the front battery to a nice AGM at least.

edit: What vehicle is it and how many amps is the stock alternator putting out? What kind of wire do you have? Id get OFC 4 gauge or bigger not CCA wire unless its 0 gauge in which case Id still pay more to get OFC.

2003 mitsu galant. I'm running the 4g ofc wire from the batt to them amp right now. I'll def do the big three asap I just have since for some reason Mitsubishi decided to run the batt to alt wire behind the damn block. Would a yellow top work?

Should. Friend ran a VFL 120.1 off of one with almost no drop. (Had big 3)

2007 Volvo S40 2.4i (no turbo :( )(Soon XS Power D2400) Stock battery for nowRockford Fosgate 4 gaugeAudioque 6.5" Mid Bass (front)Rockford Fosgate T1 Tweets (front)Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" Mids (rear)Rockford Fosgats T600-4 (Mids and highs)Rockford Fosgate P3001Fi SSD 12" with PSI recone, building box<p>400 watts, 139.3 @ 42 hz , in the kick window open. Build log!!http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/159148-2007-volvo-s40-audio-build-start-to-current-comment/

Posted

You don't have to worry about them running the wire behind the block. Just leave it there and connected and just run your 0 gauge from the positive on your battery to your alt in a path that you choose. Just make sure it is out of the way of any moving parts.

03 Ford f150

2 Sa8 v2s

Ap 1800d...

Stinger 0 Guage

CA Auto/ Electric Big 3

Xs power d680 in parallel with new group 65 stocker

Soon to come another d680

Rockford Punch 6x8 3 ways in the front, Rockford Punch Pro 6.5s in the back

Soon to come Pioneers all around

Focal Solid 4 Speaker Amp

Kenwood KDC-X896

Memphis Line Driver

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/160368-03-f150-king-ranch/

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/LabAudio502?feature=mhee

Posted

You don't have to worry about them running the wire behind the block. Just leave it there and connected and just run your 0 gauge from the positive on your battery to your alt in a path that you choose. Just make sure it is out of the way of any moving parts.

For some reason I didn't think about that! Sounds good think I'll do that
Posted

Ive heard more bad than good about Optima yellow tops. Id look at something else unless you have it already.

No I don't have one yet. what would be better then?
Posted

Ya batteries are crazy expensive, I have a 03 Mitsubishi lancer with stock alt but have a Optima blue top, and to Kenitic batteries in the trunk, Big 3 and 2 runs of 0 AWG. All RF wire & fuses, Street wires connectors. Probly have close to a grand on upgrade electrical with almost no voltage drop to Sub battery with terminal volts reader on it. Says 15.4 and at close to full tilt drops to 14.45. Running a 1999 RF Power bd1000a1 at 1ohm to a 2012 RF T1D212". Hits pretty hard for one 12, probly getting 1100+ watts. Great electrical system. I believe in head room! lol

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