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bcbrassard

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bcbrassard last won the day on February 28

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About bcbrassard

  • Rank
    170db
  • Birthday 08/14/1971

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Anchorage, ALASKA
  • Interests
    Car audio, home audio, gambling, vacationing, Construction work, My kids & Girlfriend, Hockey, Football.

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  1. Nice start with some solid equipment. Make sure you do research on deadening your doors to get the best sound out of speakers. Tuned in to see where you go with this build. Nice truck
  2. Strain on a factory all will kill it faster as well as the battery. A high output alternator and better battery will help your system run more efficient and if you have a mids and highs amp you have to account for that too. I suppose it's not a must but your electrical system wasn't designed for that extra draw of that large amplifier so just keep that in mind if you have the money do it.
  3. It will just go into protect mode. Designed that way so they don't blow up.
  4. Spring break delay. Corona virus hit Alaska today. Start work on it next week.
  5. My Malibu stock battery was a b64 I think, I measured and stuck this d3400 big bitch in. You don't like what Xs has, buy something else!
  6. Glad you got it up and running again. You have a shit ton of nice equipment in amps. I would like to see better wire management. What you have it those pics is pretty messy in my opinion.
  7. Ends crimped, heat shrink-ed & loom on. Loom is on 18' of the 20'. i single loomed it for 18" so it matched under the hood. Then i used 1.25" split loom to keep the two runs together. I will be using these to mount the loom under the car. In and hooked up to fuse block. I had little room to work and it was a real pain in the butt to weave it in and out so no moving parts touch in and serviceable. Different angle, i need the positive runs done so i can figure out where i am drilling into the trunk. And then where the positive & negative will come up into the battery and fuse block area. When i know were that is i can drill holes in the spare well baffle and then it can be painted. i will continue Monday.
  8. Still working with the wood patterns to finish & paint. Belt & disk sand work good, i went to Lowe's to get a adapter to hook up the shop vac. The piece on the stool will have to be a two part piece for battery & fuse rack. My template was off and i was out of large plywood pieces to remake it. Always adapter and make it work. This is the piece after hours of sanding & using a 45 degree champ fer bit for proper fitment. Don't need the SMD ground distribution block with battery terminal having 6 positions for grounding. Close to the end result. I am scratching my head how to get the amp rack in if it has 3" sides to enclose it and put a lid on it. Sub enclosure has to go in first with trunk baffle next and then the amp rack with very little room to maneuver it. I had to re-trim the amp riser for better fitment. First time process and trying to work issue's out as i go. With the batter & fuse rack mostly done it will be time to run 2 0 gauge positive leads under the car and into the trunk.
  9. Updates: Cardboard templates finished and bought a sheet of 5/8" maple plywood for trunk build. This was a pain but after a couple hours of measuring and trimming the trunk baffle template was finished. Layout of templates on plywood, I wasn't able to get the lid of the amp rack out of this sheet. I will have to get another sheet down the road to for the lid. Probably 3/4" so i can counter sink the acrylic window to put a false 1/4" panel on top for a stealth look. just working everything out. I would rather work thoroughly thru this process than make any mistakes. And i work slow anyway. I was able to use the new Band saw today. It's not good for large pieces but that's were the jig saw comes into play. It worked really well, no complaints for $140. All pieces cut out. The one on the floor is the spare tire well for battery & fuse. The pieces on the right are the trunk baffle. And the pieces on the left are the bass of the amp rack with the amp riser for LEDS & cooling. Taken the weekend off and will start sanding pieces for fitment. Finally some Progress!
  10. Ouch! Thats bad luck, I hope you got it cheap. Contact Singer and send it to him, hopefully its something simple otherwise the rebuild will cost you on top of the purchase price.
  11. I got a couple but like you said you can't really get a feel of the sound. It gets loud as fuck. This car is deadened about 85% but not as good of materials.
  12. Run your 0 awg as close to your amps as possible and then get a fused power distribution block to split the power up. Your going to have to run it in the wiring channel on you door jam or run it under the carpet. Just don't run any signal wires with the power wire or you could alt noise in you system.
  13. Couple quick pics of that build. It's my work car. Front Stage. 8" p3 subs in the kicks for midbass & 2 T2 6.5" midrange, w/ a T3 tweeter. Substage: 2 Sound Qubed HDS 310"s 1200/2400 max on wattage. 2 Kenetic Energy 1800 battery's w/ a Singer 220 amp alt. I was running RF Power Series amps, but i pulled them for the Malibu(T1500.1 & T1 400-4) These are budget friendly Sound Qube amps(2250 watts on subs & 850 for 8" in kick panels up front. I swapped out my Power Series amps for Punch Series, These are raised up 3/4" from the floor for cooling & spills. 2 P500-4's Rear fill speakers are now RF T1 6.5"( i will never do amplified rear speakers again, not work the expense) The power plant to run the stereo system lol.
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