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bcbrassard last won the day on February 22

bcbrassard had the most liked content!

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About bcbrassard

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  • Birthday 08/14/1971

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    Anchorage, ALASKA
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    Car audio, home audio, gambling, vacationing, Construction work, My kids & Girlfriend, Hockey, Football.

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  1. I used Stinger Road Kill Extreme on a few builds because it was a great deal price wise and a good product. I think i was getting 36 sq ft for $70. I always hated it was chrome foiled backed but thought it was a good product. I just tried Second SKins Damplifier & Damp Pro both very good products, get them as cheap as you can if b-stock is available. Also Tried SoundSkins for the first time and it too was a good product, just speedy. Basiclly if you have $1500 to throw at deadening a vehicle than those higher end product are for you. If you want budget friendly go with any off brand you can find on Amazon. These products are all similar in nature its just there thickness of aluminum and rubber that make the difference. Oh and the logo if you want to pay for that as well.
  2. 6x9's installed. Cleaned up the speakers before installing them. I have had these around 7 yrs. Put them in the son's Tahoe off a P500-4. They are nicely broke in and still sound pretty good, Good enough for rear fill off the HU. Would i like a more SQ driver there? Hell ya i would but right now sticking with the theme of using the equipment i have on hand. Unless i hit good in Vegas over spring break then all bets are off. Sky's the limit kinda thing. The Stinger Road Kill Fast Rings are a pain in the ass to separate, the back ring is very thin compared to the front and needs specially handling when separating to keep from ripping. They are huge in OD, i ended going around the outside of the speaker because it was so sloppy. Still looks good and should do the job. The trunks roof panel hugs the RF's magnets pretty tight so i can't use the back baffle of the kit. I know the rings will help, especially the top one, to push the sound out the rear deck which it needed. So much left to do. The plan is get it a daily by this fall, for sure by the beginning of winter. -replace HU - Deadening to buy & install. -backup camera, new RCA's & remote turn on. -Battery's: largest under the Hood & trunk with a mounting bracket -0 gauge runs to rear depending on how many amps i run. 2 or 3. Couple thousand dollars and time. Right now i have the time but no $, in the summer i have the $ just no time. Starting to go thru the car with tape, foam, and scraps to deaden the last of the wiring & prep for panels to go back on.
  3. If your system is grounded properly, and you have separation between power and signal wires there shouldn't be any noise in the system. If anything the high level inputs would be a more direct connection, HU to amp. As of now you have high level turning into low level and sending it to the amp. If what you have now is solid and works leave it. If there's any issue then get some 9 wire and re-run signal wires to amp.
  4. Glad you figure it out. User error 95% of the time. lol
  5. I guess that's up to you? Is there a issue with the set up now? What do you gain from switching? If you do decide to go this route look into 9 wire, It's all 4 of your speakers and a remote turn on it a small cord designed to run thru the car. Be the easiest way to go IMO. Unless the amp is next to the HU.
  6. Used up the Dynaliner today. It didn't go very far. I put some acoustic foam on the b-pillar posts to help quiet the panels. I had a long strip of dynaliner and put it here where the back seat bolts up to the rear deck. It is not metal to metal now. lol 1 sq ft of dynaliner for each 6x9. I should work on getting these mounted today. I think that is all the deadening i can do for this round. I hated to switch products in the trunk but with panels covering everything i will have to be ok. I need 20 sq ft of 1mm damplifier and 2 rolls of soundskins to finish trunk Floor and doors. 1 more roll of dynaliner too. About $350 more... well there is the trunk lid that needs attention later down the road so call it $500 more to finish all deadening. Start putting the interior back together and save up for next round of goodies.
  7. 42 sq ft of SOUNDSKINS used up. (2 sq ft of scraps left) Pretty happy with how it turned out. I couldn't have done it without my helper Coco. 3 lbs TeaCup Poodle. Now to measure out everywhere i want the Dynaliner and start cutting. Oh with all this SoundSkins in here it is supper comfortable to crawl around on.... And Quiet! lol
  8. bcbrassard

    Looking for a DSP

    Gotcha, your looking for channel suming and acu bass. Audio control comes to mind as well. I used a LC7 from audio control on 2 builds with great results.
  9. bcbrassard

    Looking for a DSP

    I SUGGEST you buy it, Run it, Review It!!! Tons of DSP's out there. Not to sound stupid but what does de-equalizing mean? I googled it and didn't find a meaning for it. Equalize, yes. De-equalize, No.
  10. What HU? Signal loss if its not a power loss? Still a strange solution for running more that one amp for 3 subs.
  11. I used up the last 2 pieces of Damplifier to finish trunk where SoundSkins stopped. I have enough SoundSkins left to do the fender wells and possible trunk or rear deck.? I think it looks killer. Shit works to keep the sound from traveling. Research i did said the fender wells are a major source of road noise introduced into the vehicle, and if you think about how close your ears are to them i could see them being an issue. Not an issue in a truck or SUV so much. I think the distance between the speaker and fender wells are very close and i could see it affecting the SQ. If you think about it the back of cars are just rattling echo chambers from hell that need attention when deadening. More to do tomorrow.
  12. That sucks man! Hate when shit like that happens.
  13. Update on my progress: Materials not hard to work with because its pliable to contour changes, radius's & bends. It will tear pretty easy and i was glad i had a 2" urethane roller to help work the material out. I think a 1" wood roller could damage it pretty easy if you pressed to hard. I do not regret putting the Damp Pro down first as this material has little damplifier and thin aluminium which is why its flexible and it alone would not have the same results. Working on passenger side wiring harness and rear floor heater vent. This channel is where the rear floor heat vent passes thru so i wanted to make sure it stayed noise free by Tesa Taping the wiring harness it rest on. And applying some speaker gasket foam to each side of the oval opening. Here you can see it touching the channel and harness with the potential noises it could have made. Not to mention the vent resting on the floor and against the hump. With this SecondSkins installed you know this shit ain't making a peep. lol Here i cut a piece of foam to wedge the vent over into place. 1 on each side of channel. And then taped over it to help keep it in place. Front side. Driver side Harness needs some taping. Driver side cleaned up and all wiring back into position. Driver side floor vent same process as the passenger side. With the front done except for the back of tranny hump and wiring by back seat done it was time to finalize real layout and start cutting. I taped it down and reinstalled rear carpet for layout to cut for back seat brackets. Carpet went in nice and snug. So far no issue's with anything yet as far as deadening goes and putting items in stock location. Between the Damp Pro and SecondSkins i have add 5/16 uncompressed, 1/4" compressed to the interior. And that's where there are no overlaps. Few goodies showed up today. This is a ASC 2 pair GM speaker adapter kit i picked up for $25 off Amazon. Why do i have these? Well when i install the T3 6.5" in the doors i used what i had on hand which was a 3/4" abs speaker adapter ring and not the right adapter for GM models. So when i go to SecondSkins the front door i will change out adapters and make it right. I hate to leave any half ass work and make sure everything is right to the best of my ability. What i did was good and the speakers sound amazing but... it isn't right and i can't leave it. The left over 2 adapters i can give to my son for his truck. He might be able to afford new speakers in the future but i don't see a system for him anytime soon. He is expecting his first child in October. Oh the quality of the adapters is pretty good. The factory one is real solid materials which is why people break out the speaker and use the factory one. I plan to Craigslist all 4 stock speakers for like $40. otherwise they are junk. I have kept them thinking i would pull the T3's if need be but i don't see that happening, well only to put something better in. lol And i got my fast rings in from Stinger. First set from them i have used. They seem to bee a REAL pan in the ASS to break apart. Maybe someone from the company should contact FASTRING company to see how they do it RIGHT! More to come.... & Slow to come as well.