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bcbrassard

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bcbrassard last won the day on November 19

bcbrassard had the most liked content!

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About bcbrassard

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    170db
  • Birthday 08/14/1971

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Anchorage, ALASKA
  • Interests
    Car audio, home audio, gambling, vacationing, Construction work, My kids & Girlfriend, Hockey, Football.

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  1. Just a reminder that if your space isn't treated properly achieving your goal will be difficult and/or sound like shit! Prep is KEY imo. Remember a full range signal starts @ 20 hz so it a matter of finding the right driver to do what you want WERE you want. Good luck!
  2. There is probably a video on the installation of these speakers out there! Basically its a coax with the tweeter separate. RF's Punch line does the same thing.
  3. Thanks man. i appreciate the thought! Fuck that would have been nice to have won! Wife's got a TrailHawk needing a system And that tiny piece of shit needs all the deadening it can get! Maybe next time i will win something....Not i always over pay, get it late & half broken kid of guy. lol
  4. Holy shit this build came together fast. I am at ToNsty's speed. Be lucky to get my done by spring.
  5. This was my second set up on the front stage. First was stock location in the door. Felt i wasn't getting enough mid-bass so i decided to build some kick panels for 6.5". I probable have T3 6.5" in the doors, and the T2 in the kick panel. Paint didn't match well but finish of body work was spot on. At this point i still wasn't happy with it so that's when the door panel project began. Along with the new kick panels for 8" drivers. all in a tiny car space! lol
  6. Yes, even on the drivers side i find there is plenty of room. I know to be more careful its passengers that kick from time to time. I don't mind though, it's not a show car it's my work car. And i made them stout and super durable, just clean off any dirt or scuff marks.
  7. Nice response. This is want this forum is all about. OP... when you go to start this build take lot of pics and start a build log so we can see how it turns out and a review of the system.
  8. Yes. If you get a 2 ch amp and use the passive crossover that came with the components. You will want to convert your high level output from hu(speaker wires out of HU) to a low level signal (RCA's) before you input it into the amp. Unless you get a amp that accepts low level inputs into it.(again speaker wire from HU) High level inputs = the powered signal from the HU into wires out of the HU. Low level inputs = the signal that run thru RCA cables from HU to amp. It is straight signal with no power, cleanest form of signal you can get.
  9. I have learned to spend the most time and money on the front doors. I would leave them on Deck power for now and get your front stage the best you can.
  10. Rear doors of my Lancer. Front stage. Mounting of 4 ch amps. Right amp runs front tweeters & rear 6.5". Left amp runs the 2 sets of T2 6.5" Stereo Bridged @ 2 ohms , each driver in the doors seeing about 150 watts. 2 amps in the trunk, one runs the mid-bass speaker in the kick panel. Each 8" driver is getting 350 watts. Other amp run 2 10" sub getting 1000+ watts each firing into the cab, This is my work car and it is very dirty in this pic. It is usually much cleaner than this. I swapped these amp out from the Power series 4 channels i had in here for the Punch series & these are more powerful by at least 25 watts rms.
  11. Having more speakers in the rear than the front is not the ideal set up. Having rear speakers for some slight rear fill or for passenger is one thing. If your going for just loud then pick rear doors or rear deck. If you are going for any real kind of proper staging the rears don't need amplified and could be run off HU power. It will be more work than its worth! Trust i been there, i did it & wished i had spent the extra $350 on anything rather than the rear. Imagine going to a concert and the whole time you had your back turned to the band. That is what your car will sound like with all sound coming from the rear. It's you build and you can surely do what ever you want. This is just a suggestion from the 10+ years of experience learning about the science behind car audio. Making mistakes along the way, having others chime in and to help guide thru the planning and building stages of the systems i have built. Rear deck in my Malibu build, trying to build more of a SQ set up with the equipment i had on hand. These will be running on HU power and faded for a slight rear presence of sound. I have deadened the shit out of this car. About $1,700 worth.
  12. That would be my suggestion. If you get new subs build a new enclosure to suite the subs for best performance. Or at least find out the cubic sq foot of the existing enclosure and get speakers that would match the air space as close possible. Pretty much any 500 watt rms subs will do. There are a lot of mid level subs that would suite your needs. Go to amazon and search for 12" subs. Page after page will give idea's. Sub is a sub, pretty much entry or mid level all sound and perform the same.
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