Swampy Posted July 5, 2013 Report Posted July 5, 2013 Okay so before I go drop a,l of my money, I wanted to post up the next system I'm PLANNING on investing in. ( subject to change of course) Okay, here we go: Vehicle: 98 Ford Explorer sport (2 door, manual transmission) Deadener: Second skin Electrical: -2 runs from front to back batteries (for both + and -) -front batt: XS power D6500 -back batt: XS power D3400 -alternator: DC Power Inc 180A (150A hot @ 1200rpm) -Big 3 under hood w/ 1/0 pure copper welding cable (all wire will in fact be 1/0 pure copper industrial welding wire) Sub/box: 18" level 5 (1st gen) DC Audio sub DVC 2 ohms custom built, metal reinforced box tuned to 32 hz. Amplifiers: Sub amp: Hifoics BRX 2400.D wired @ 1 ohm 4 ch: still largely undecided (and don't really know how to shop for a good 4 ch amp) I know I want components as well for the front to hopefully even out the bass a bit from the back, but I haven't decided on a set yet. I'm not really shooting for SQ or SPL in general, I just want a daily driver that sounds good and still beats stuff up. Any advice/help is greatly appreciated. I don't claim to know how to solve anything, I just practice the basics. There is nothing worse than wasting hours over a problem that should have taken 5 mins. Anything I post and claim to know, I know simply because of a lesson learned from a mistake on my part.
dfoland93 Posted July 5, 2013 Report Posted July 5, 2013 For a 4ch check out MB quart, Alpine, Sundown, RF, IA (good brands, not all listed) The brutus lines is power hungry so at least you have good size batts. Everything else sounds good, just search around and looks, tons of info on here for everything. The spot with least resistance LOL. I would ground to a rubber dildo if it had less resistance than a run of 4/0 wiring. how many poeple work there 3 or 4 lol At crescendo HQ? probably 2-3 At the sweatshop in china? 30,000 children No Engine
Swampy Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Posted July 5, 2013 For a 4ch check out MB quart, Alpine, Sundown, RF, IA (good brands, not all listed) The brutus lines is power hungry so at least you have good size batts. Everything else sounds good, just search around and looks, tons of info on here for everything. Cool thanks, I'll look into them. Can someone enlighten me a little bit on how the RMS ratings work for a 4 ch? Like if it says 125W/ch @ 4 ohms, is that per channel (125Wx4) or per set of channels (125Wx2)? Hope that makes sense and doesn't come off as ignorant as I feel typing it lol. I don't claim to know how to solve anything, I just practice the basics. There is nothing worse than wasting hours over a problem that should have taken 5 mins. Anything I post and claim to know, I know simply because of a lesson learned from a mistake on my part.
john253a Posted July 5, 2013 Report Posted July 5, 2013 your average 4ch you will see 75x4 @4ohm 125x4 @2ohm 250x2 @4ohm that is what each ch will see at final ohm load idd recommend looking for something 75rms @4ohm min side note why do you want a 4ch when you only have a 2door unless you plane on some mids and components up front elec. looks real good but idd add a dig volt gauge up front amp as said the brz are hungry idd look at the q1-2200d http://www.soundqubed.com/Q1-2200D_p_31.html you could get the dc2k for only a little more or the 3.5 for just under double the q1 price
Swampy Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Posted July 5, 2013 your average 4ch you will see 75x4 @4ohm 125x4 @2ohm 250x2 @4ohm that is what each ch will see at final ohm load idd recommend looking for something 75rms @4ohm min side note why do you want a 4ch when you only have a 2door unless you plane on some mids and components up front elec. looks real good but idd add a dig volt gauge up front amp as said the brz are hungry idd look at the q1-2200d http://www.soundqubed.com/Q1-2200D_p_31.html you could get the dc2k for only a little more or the 3.5 for just under double the q1 price I still have rear seating/factory speaker spots so I'm going to use them lol. It would prolly be much more simple to just use a 2 ch to just have good midbass front components. I figured the digi volt meter would be assumed haha. I don't claim to know how to solve anything, I just practice the basics. There is nothing worse than wasting hours over a problem that should have taken 5 mins. Anything I post and claim to know, I know simply because of a lesson learned from a mistake on my part.
dfoland93 Posted July 6, 2013 Report Posted July 6, 2013 As i am still learning about mids and highs right now as well, couldnt he just hook mids and highs on a seperate ch for each? Such as; each comp and tweeter on 1 ch each? The spot with least resistance LOL. I would ground to a rubber dildo if it had less resistance than a run of 4/0 wiring. how many poeple work there 3 or 4 lol At crescendo HQ? probably 2-3 At the sweatshop in china? 30,000 children No Engine
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