alaskanzx5 Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 so when i can finally get my actual build going im going sub up port up with 2 6" round ports. barely enough room to fit the subs and ports on the baffle together but i can make it happen. the issue im having is deciding on where on the baffle to place the ports, i can do driver, passenger or middle. if it on either the driver or passenger side then there is a trim piece that will be hanging over about half of the port opening roughly 3" above the port. im leaning towards placing the ports between the subs but ive heard that better results can be had with the port on the driver side. in my case however with the trim piece hanging over the port openings i would think that it could hurt my output. i know only testing can tell what will happen. im just interested in hearing what some of you would do in this situation. which way would you do first? i eventually will have both a box with the ports on the driver side and the middle but that will have to wait for some time as i am broke and just started a new job so spending an extra 60-80 in materiel will be out of the question for at least a few months after i get the first box built. wont have money to burn on testing the 2 different boxes for a little while. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01B4000 Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 so when i can finally get my actual build going im going sub up port up with 2 6" round ports. barely enough room to fit the subs and ports on the baffle together but i can make it happen. the issue im having is deciding on where on the baffle to place the ports, i can do driver, passenger or middle. if it on either the driver or passenger side then there is a trim piece that will be hanging over about half of the port opening roughly 3" above the port. im leaning towards placing the ports between the subs but ive heard that better results can be had with the port on the driver side. in my case however with the trim piece hanging over the port openings i would think that it could hurt my output. i know only testing can tell what will happen. im just interested in hearing what some of you would do in this situation. which way would you do first? i eventually will have both a box with the ports on the driver side and the middle but that will have to wait for some time as i am broke and just started a new job so spending an extra 60-80 in materiel will be out of the question for at least a few months after i get the first box built. wont have money to burn on testing the 2 different boxes for a little while. Where is this box located? 1 Kicker 10CVX124 12 inch woofer Oldschool 2 Channel 400 watt rms Kenwood Pionner DEH7500 Headunit Pair of Alpine Type R 6x8 on headunit power Termlab- 138.0 sealed 139.2 db w/ windows down Redneck build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/171829-redneck-stereo-in-mazda-b4000-repost/ NEXT SYSTEM- 2 Soundqubed SDC 2.5 15s" Cadence 2500.1 Amplifier (1200 watts) 4 6.5s Cadence fiberglassed in doors (Not sure which brand to go to) 4 1" tweeters in front pillars 2 6.5s Cadence in rear pillars 2 Cadence 800.4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 guess that would help. car is a 2000 ford focus zx3 2 door hatchback, box will be in the cargo/trunk area to keep me in the lower classes so that i can be more competitive. subs up port u, t2d415 on a t1500.1bdcp until i can get a t2500.1bdcp. the plastic trim piece that will would hang over part of the port is no thicker then the usual plastic trim piece in a car or door panel. im just trying to decide to build a box with the port in the middle or the port on driver side first. i think that the trim piece could affect my peak score. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01B4000 Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 guess that would help. car is a 2000 ford focus zx3 2 door hatchback, box will be in the cargo/trunk area to keep me in the lower classes so that i can be more competitive. subs up port u, t2d415 on a t1500.1bdcp until i can get a t2500.1bdcp. the plastic trim piece that will would hang over part of the port is no thicker then the usual plastic trim piece in a car or door panel. im just trying to decide to build a box with the port in the middle or the port on driver side first. i think that the trim piece could affect my peak score. Can you send a picture? I kind of got what you mean by trim peice but i want to make sure. 1 Kicker 10CVX124 12 inch woofer Oldschool 2 Channel 400 watt rms Kenwood Pionner DEH7500 Headunit Pair of Alpine Type R 6x8 on headunit power Termlab- 138.0 sealed 139.2 db w/ windows down Redneck build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/171829-redneck-stereo-in-mazda-b4000-repost/ NEXT SYSTEM- 2 Soundqubed SDC 2.5 15s" Cadence 2500.1 Amplifier (1200 watts) 4 6.5s Cadence fiberglassed in doors (Not sure which brand to go to) 4 1" tweeters in front pillars 2 6.5s Cadence in rear pillars 2 Cadence 800.4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 ill see what i can find. i should have a pic. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 best pic i have right now. this was my other ford focus i had when i was living in alaska. last summer i pulled the blue fabric out and replaced it all with a black fleece like material. looked so much better. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01B4000 Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Since you have a hatchback, you should have the subwoofer and port facing the trunk lid. Hatchbacks are the best cars in my opinion to get a good score on the termlab. When you place the box in it though, make sure you have some room for the port to vent properly off the trunk lid so it can let the bass notes mature and deflect off the surface properly. You will notice a difference 1 Kicker 10CVX124 12 inch woofer Oldschool 2 Channel 400 watt rms Kenwood Pionner DEH7500 Headunit Pair of Alpine Type R 6x8 on headunit power Termlab- 138.0 sealed 139.2 db w/ windows down Redneck build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/171829-redneck-stereo-in-mazda-b4000-repost/ NEXT SYSTEM- 2 Soundqubed SDC 2.5 15s" Cadence 2500.1 Amplifier (1200 watts) 4 6.5s Cadence fiberglassed in doors (Not sure which brand to go to) 4 1" tweeters in front pillars 2 6.5s Cadence in rear pillars 2 Cadence 800.4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 less then an inch for the port to breath if i do port back. the only way 2 15 will fit is firing up or to the front. front firing would limit space for amps and batts and i highly doubt it will do any good like that. talked with nightshade on the box design (has broke a 150 in the same car). me and him came to a conclusion that port and subs up will be my best bet in order to have a give enough box and room for the subs and ports to breath. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01B4000 Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 less then an inch for the port to breath if i do port back. the only way 2 15 will fit is firing up or to the front. front firing would limit space for amps and batts and i highly doubt it will do any good like that. talked with nightshade on the box design (has broke a 150 in the same car). me and him came to a conclusion that port and subs up will be my best bet in order to have a give enough box and room for the subs and ports to breath. True enough. It doesn't matter really where the port is placed. As long as it's upwards and it has room to breath 1 Kicker 10CVX124 12 inch woofer Oldschool 2 Channel 400 watt rms Kenwood Pionner DEH7500 Headunit Pair of Alpine Type R 6x8 on headunit power Termlab- 138.0 sealed 139.2 db w/ windows down Redneck build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/171829-redneck-stereo-in-mazda-b4000-repost/ NEXT SYSTEM- 2 Soundqubed SDC 2.5 15s" Cadence 2500.1 Amplifier (1200 watts) 4 6.5s Cadence fiberglassed in doors (Not sure which brand to go to) 4 1" tweeters in front pillars 2 6.5s Cadence in rear pillars 2 Cadence 800.4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 ive read/been told that the port on the driver side makes it unload into the front passenger side and gets better scores. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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