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I do not understand that damn crossover yet...it's all gibberish to me lol

02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW)

Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around

Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4

Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz

Sub Amps: SAZ3k

Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk

About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC....

Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX

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http://www.zzounds.com/item--YAMMG102C

try that one. do you know what a crossover does in car audio? seperates the frequensys so your tweeters dont try play the sub frequencys etc. its the same thing. except in pro audio they generally come as adjustable items like the one i listed.

basicly it takes in your audio, then breaks it up into LOW. MID. HIGH. frequencys then send them to the correct speakers. so you will have two amps. One for your subs, one for your 'tops' the sub amp will receive its signal from the 'LOW' output of the crossover. and your tops (when i say tops im refuring to the cabinet that houses your mids and highs) will receive its signal from the 'HIGH' output

ill draw your a picture. gimme a min

xlr are very easy and reliable connections and are the industry standard for signal in pro audio.

PSN: Rcp_soundz

Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at.

I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k.

1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/

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Gotcha. So I wont hookup the MID on the crossover? And what will be sending the signals to the crossover? A receiver?

02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW)

Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around

Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4

Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz

Sub Amps: SAZ3k

Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk

About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC....

Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX

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