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Just bought a bunch of stuff and want some help


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Hi everyone,

I'm brand new on here and realize I have BIG knowledge gaps after reading through your threads, but I want to learn! I just picked a system for my 2011 WRX sedan at a "VIP" sale yesterday at a local store and I *think* I made away with a good deal? I've just installed the head unit and wired up my old Kicker amp (but I came in from the rain before I had chance to fuse it). I have engine drone coming through the subs so I took them out till I can trace the bad ground.

Anyway, I'm posting because I want to learn how to get the cleanest and most powerful bass out of what I have, and I want to do this install myself. Electrical power *seems* OK but I haven't done the big 3 yet (though stock setup seems decent @ 14.48 V).

Here's what I have to work with so far:

Source unit: Clarion NX501

Front door speakers: Focal P165 V15 component speakers

Back door speakers: Focal PC 165 6-1/2" Performance Series 2-Way coaxial car speakers

Amps:

(1) Kicker ZX700.5 (missing bass boost remote control)

(2) Focal FPP 4100

Bass: JL Audio HO210G-W3v3 dual 10" high output sub box

Wiring:

Interconnects: Signature Wirez RCASBK-17

Amp power wire: Bassworx 4GA

I also have a 1F power cap and an extra battery lying around.

What's a good way to the sub box (2 ohm, 1000 W)? Should I bridge the amps to match the power of the subs or use one amp for the bass and the other for the mids/tweets?

I had planned to run the mids and tweets with the Focal 4-channel and use my old Kicker for the subs, but will my Kicker amp make enough power to even run the box properly?

Those are my main questions for now. Thanks for reading and I'm open to any advice I can get!

P.S. This is my 2nd time trying to post -- I had links to each component before but I'm getting mad at my computer! I'll add pics if this post works.

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I would run the 4 ch focal with the comps up front and the coaxials on the rears.

IIRC the ZX700.5 sub channel makes 500 @ 2 ohms so that will work fine but ideally you want to get the most of out your subs a monoblock that does 1000 @ 2 ohms would be best.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

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Thanks for the quick reply! I'll see if I can exchange the amp I just bought for a 1000W mono.

(I'm having difficulty with uploading pics ... I need to look into that Systemvoltage.jpg)

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And here's the car. Would it be better to face the subs to the back of the trunk?



nearmurderedWRX.jpg


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I would say ditch that 5 channel as a sub amp and use it in another car to do the whole system. If you where to but a new amp what would your budget be?

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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Usually louder facing toward the rear pushed flush against the seat unless you plan on walling it forward. Nice ride btw

Yes, that kicker is a decent amp to run a whole system but I highly doubt it will be better sounding than the focal. I would keep it focal and JL. I would think a JL slash series 600/1v3 would match up nicely if you can swing the $$$ on paper it looks like its underpowered but my slash 500/1v1 can bottom out my RE SE 10 rated at 600rms with ease.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

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Thanks for the quick reply! I'll see if I can exchange the amp I just bought for a 1000W mono.

(I'm having difficulty with uploading pics ... I need to look into that Systemvoltage.jpg)

If you can't I hope you did not pay to much for it and if they won't I would use it on another car to do the whole system

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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I would say ditch that 5 channel as a sub amp and use it in another car to do the whole system. If you where to but a new amp what would your budget be?

I'd say 3 or 4 bills. I can get a JL 1000W mono here (Edmonton, Canada -- everything's more $$ here) for around that, but I'd be putting a battery in the back with that I think.

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Usually louder facing toward the rear pushed flush against the seat unless you plan on walling it forward. Nice ride btw

Yes, that kicker is a decent amp to run a whole system but I highly doubt it will be better sounding than the focal. I would keep it focal and JL. I would think a JL slash series 600/1v3 would match up nicely if you can swing the $$$ on paper it looks like its underpowered but my slash 500/1v1 can bottom out my RE SE 10 rated at 600rms with ease.

Really? Hmm, I'll check and see if I can pick one up then. A clean 600/1v3 might not even require a battery or alt. upgrade (which I'd like to avoid) -- trying to keep the car from weighing another ton!

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Jl audio is always more expensive no matter where you are at. There is much more stuff you can get that's cheaper and just as good if not better

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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