Ryan_Kao Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Alright guys, well I might soon end up getting that 180amp DC Power alt. Do you think I could keep my battery for the time being and eventauly go to an AGM battery? I just need to minimize my costs as much as possible. I just order an Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2. So once that comes in, I got to get a box design done and get it built! And sugestions on that guys!? Woofer specs: Obsidian 12" v2 D2:Re: 4.0 OhmFs: 33 HzQms: 5.21Qes: 0.56Qts: 0.51Vas: 34.4Le: 4.36 mHBL: 19.1SPL: 85.4 dBSd: 490 cm^2Mms: 243.1 gXmax: 20mmPeak-to-peak: 62mm (2.45")Power Handling: 600 watts RMSRecommended enclosure info:Sealed ~ 1.0 to 1.5 ft^3Ported ~ 1.75 to 2 ft^3 @ 30 to 35 HzCutout: 11.10"OD: 12.5"Mounting depth: 6.75"Mounting flange to top of surround: 1.25"Displacement: 0.16 ft^3 Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 I can give you some SketchUp files with a few designs you can check out if you can tell me all the dimensions of your boot rounded down to the nearest inch. You should be fine with that Bi-Mart battery for now until you get an AGM, just make sure the AGM has enough cold cranking amps to push your starter. Match it to your current battery or make it higher. If I have extra time to cross reference your battery needs at work to see what AGM you'll need. If you want to know right away I can text you, I won't get home until about 11PM CST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 https://www.dropbox.com/s/6f45zb0jkdq2kd1/Single%2012%20In%20Sub%20Enclosure.zip There's the Sub Encloser, Info and all that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Got a reply back from Michael from Singer Alternators! "Hello Ryan For the power your running the 160A upgrade I offer would work out excellent for you. The upgraded unit that I offer for your vehicle is a 160 (150A after heat). This alternator is a direct bolt on design for your vehicle and would plug in just like the factory alternator. I include my overdrive pulley to boost the idle output (this will spin the alternator faster at low RPMS to boost idle output by around 30 to 40A more then the stock will). The total price on this unit shipped w/ my lifetime warranty on labor is $389. All units come w/ a lifetime warranty that covers any repair labor (parts are at company cost) You can add a powder coating option on any order for an additional $48." Seems like a pretty good deal to me! I've heard they have a great reputation. Thoughts? This is something a little more close to what i can afford soon. Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 I may be overstepping my boundaries but unless it's a hairpin, I wouldn't do anything in that Subaru because you will most likely have charging issues at idle. Another thing is that alternators just don't lose just 7% output when they reach max thermal operating temperature. With a hairpin you see about 20% loss and a wire wound you can see as much as 30% or more of a loss. So you may have no problems charging when the alternator is fresh in the morning but can suffer a big loss on idle output on wire wounds later when its hot. However, on the hairpins, the three step temperature compensation takes in and limits the top end output more than the idle output which is why DENSO hairpins are kick ass alternators. Just my two cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Much I may be overstepping my boundaries but unless it's a hairpin, I wouldn't do anything in that Subaru because you will most likely have charging issues at idle. Another thing is that alternators just don't lose just 7% output when they reach max thermal operating temperature. With a hairpin you see about 20% loss and a wire wound you can see as much as 30% or more of a loss. So you may have no problems charging when the alternator is fresh in the morning but can suffer a big loss on idle output on wire wounds later when its hot. However, on the hairpins, the three step temperature compensation takes in and limits the top end output more than the idle output which is why DENSO hairpins are kick ass alternators.Just my two cents. Much appreciated Kyle. So I'm not to huge into the electrical stuff yet, what do you mean by hairpin? I understand what your saying about the ouput drop from heat though. Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 From our site: https://www.dcpowerinc.com/info/xp-hp-series-high-output-alternators.html Hairpin: Wire wound: Edit: The last thing you want to do is do an overdrive pulley on that Subaru drive system.. SnowDrifter can tell you all about how bad even our pulley has slipping issues at times and we're not even using the 1.8" which is what the industry standard called for "overdrive" pullieys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Huh, well very good to know! I'm still working on some decisions for the system. Id be able to afford a new battery for upfront here very soon. I could probably afford a XS Power possibly. Id have to return my Bi-Mart battery. Should I do this? Or just continue to save for an Alt? Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 If you want to keep running the power you have now, get an alternator. High output alternators are not always required but when you're pulling almost 150 amps on a 70 amp alternator, even a big battery bank will need charging. Or go smaller like I said until you can afford the alt. Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2013 Alright the decision is made. Im saving up to buy the DC Power 180amp Alt. Its about $480. Gonna take a while. Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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