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I must be lost....


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I'm in an car audio q and a on Facebook. And I keep seeing these guys telling other people to fuse for the wire gauge. Which I guess is true to a point. But why would I fuse the positive going to my amp from my rear battery for 300 amp when the amp manufacturer calls for 180 amp inline fusing?

I've always been told to fuse for the amp, when using the correct gauge wire. Is this not true?

Have I been doing this wrong all my career?

I just don't quite get it.

Thanks guys.

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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It's as simple as this. Fuse for what you want to protect. If you fuse to wire size than you fuse to protect the wire/ car to protect against fires but it wo.t really protect a smaller amp. If you fuse to the amp then it will blow earlier to protect the amp. It just depends on where and why you are fusing.

Team NorthWestSPL

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That's what I thought all this time, I use 300 amp for my front to back batteries and a 180 amp from rear batt to amp. I've commented twice on fuse topics and more than one of those people are like, you're wrong... I'm just like whatever and move on. It's not my fire, because there is no way in hell I'd fuse my 1800w rms amp for 300 amp..

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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