scooter99 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Thanks for the info. I'm working on her, but it's not looking good. Damn! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COLTON94 Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Head gaskets only need to be changed if the oil is milky valve cover gaskets would be if their is alot of oil on the motor. Probly already know this but thought id chime in before you pulled the top end off the motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted November 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Thanks Colton. I appreciate the information. I think I'm going to just take it somewhere and have it gone through and see if it's running correctly, and if not get a list of things to change on it. Decide if I can do them myself or not. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COLTON94 Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Valve covers are stupid easy but havin a mechanic check it all over is nice before a big trip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 So I'm bringing this back a little bit. I have some questions for some of you. First off let me update what I've done recently since this rsk was done. The last few weeks I decided to get the exhaust, headers, intake, and a bunch of other maintenance stuff done. I started off taking pictures, but I failed to keep taking them. I will try and get some finalized pics but I won't have in progress pics like I usually do. So if you need info for anything that was done, please ask and I'll see what I can do for you. So Here's what went in: Banks Power Pack (consisting of) - Full Tube Headers Exhaust front to back Magnaflow Muffler Banks Black Exhaust tip Banks Ram Air Intake Stage 8 header bolts (they won't allow the bolts to back out) Did a CAT delete. (Kept the cat for smog in a couple years) Replaced all plug wires with MSD Ignition Street Fire Wires New EGR Tube New 02 Sensor Re gaped the plugs Removed the Oil Cooler Installed a new hose to bypass the oil cooler Removed the Oil Filter Base Installed an adapter for a remote oil filter base Installed a dual oil filter remote base behind the front bumper Changed the oil and rad fluid Removed the rear differential cover, scraped and painted it black. New Rear Differential cover gasket New gear oil Added polyurethane shims under the front springs to replace the stock ones. Removed the front sway bar (but this is going back, there's a story and a reason I did this.) So that's about it. I've also changed the thermostat and changed the fuel pressure regulator. I have to tell you guys, this thing is running amazingly right now! I owe a TON of thanks to Billy Rust (Dog24Fret). He has helped me walk through ideas and troubleshooting and just overall been a great person to talk with about this stuff. He's got a great mechanical mind. I couldn't have done this without him. So while I was in there doing all this, and basically had half the engine broken down (the sides anyway), I was able to see deep in side the motor. I was able to see I have severe leaks around the oil pan, and around the water pump it looks like. The seals around the heads seem to be ok, and everywhere else seem to be ok. But I've found out that the best way to tackle those other seals is to pull the motor. So that will have to happen for sure now. But having gotten as far as I have with this last big project, I'm honestly not as worried about doing it as I was before. I think it'll be doable for sure. But she's already running like a whole new vehicle! So I'm happy. I have videos of the exhaust before and after the change. I'll get those up tonight maybe when I'm at home. Can't do anything from work like I used to. I also purchased a dual steering stabilizer kit that I haven't been able to put on yet. So I'll get that going sometime this weekend. Maybe tonight. Who knows. So with all that being said, and everything up to date, this is my latest issue. After doing all this work on the RSK, I love it and it rides so much more comfortably, but I want to go higher. I want another 3-4" of lift on it. The problem is I'm having trouble figuring out what I need to do to it, and the ford forum folks are not being very helpful. So I thought I'd throw it up here and maybe get some help with it. So with the RSK and the Super Duty springs I got a 3" lift up front and with the 5" lift blocks and the Super Duty Springs in the rear, I got a 1.5" lift. So here's my thinking. There are a few options to go with. Front Option 1: Get a new 5" RSK for the front, and get new Super Duty X Code springs. This will get me a total of about 6" of lift that I'm looking for. Front Option 2: Keep the existing 3.5" RSK and get 4" lift springs. This will get me closer to 7" of lift. To me, option B seems more reasonable. If I'm going to be buying new Super Duty Springs anyway, why not keep the RSK and buy the Springs for the lift and save the extra money. Rear Option 1: Sky Manufacturing sells a Rear Shackle Flip Kit which, as the name sounds like, flips the shackle down, and gives 4.5" or 6" of lift depending on which one you go with. Then I would want ot buy new SD springs as like the front. This will give me between 4.5-7" of lift depending on which way I go, and allows me to remove the lift block and stock block (no the blocks aren't stacked, it's just the lift block on now) and just run spring to axle. Rear Option 2: Keep the shackles the way they are, and buy a 6" lift spring to go in. This will give me around a 3" lift because the stock blocks are 4" and the lift block is 5". So I would be making up for the block with the spring. I think that'll be enough to stay up with the front. If not I'll have to look into getting an 8" spring, but I'm not sure if there are any out there. The reason I want to loose the blocks in the rear is because the higher it goes, with the blocks, it causes axle wrap. Eliminating that block, to my understanding eliminates a joint and thus eliminates the axle wrap. I could buy torsion bars I'm sure, but those are pretty pricey. I'd love to make my own, but I don't weld. Still really wanna learn how to do that. So those are the options. I know that I need new shocks because the length is going to change. I'm also pretty sure I'll need a carrier bearing drop kit. Can anyone help me figure out what else i'm going to need with more lift? Brake lines. What else. Thanks guys, I know this was long, but a lot has gone on. Am I going to focus on this instead of the car now? No, but until I figure the car situation out, this will be the focus. Thanks for those that follow me and I appreciate any and all help with this. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lifted_silverado Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 For the front you could just do add a leafs for extra height or buy new spring packs. Since you already have the RSK all it does is reverse the mounting points on the leaf shackles for better ride. The back ive always heard good things about a reverse shackle, prevents alot of axle wrap and gives more lifting lowering options and a more comfortable ride. I have 5.5" blocks in the rear of my dodge, at just under 500hp I dont have axle wrap bad enough to make any real difference. Also you can run ladder bars to help prevent axle wrap which is honestly the best way to go but isnt necessary. Brake lines shouldnt be necessary either unless the stainless ones you use currently are at their length limit. You're also going to need longer sway bar end links, possibly pitman arm depending on height difference. The adjustable trac bar you have is definitely a big help to since you dont have to replace the drop mount now just turn out the heims a bit to center the axle. Everythings in the attic or garage since the truck was sold last year. New build should be coming soon in a dodge cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Thanks for the info and response. I just got an email from Sky Mfng. They suggested 4" lift springs for the front. They also said I'd need an OTS Crossover Steering Linkage, and Panhard Bar conversion for the front. For the rear they suggested the 6" shackle flip and the super duty springs. I'll get new springs and do that. THat will put the drive shaft pinion where it needs to be, or close at least. Then they said that I'll need to deal with pinion angles and drive line linkage when I get the final lift done. I'm not sure exactly what that means. So do you think I wouldn't need the pan hard bar conversion by having the drop PHB bracket and adjustable bar? I have ss brake lines now and they have some play in them. I'm just not sure how much, I'd have to wait until I got it re lifted to see where that's at. I do have a drop pitman arm, but I'm not sure if it's enough. Apparently the OTS Crossover is supposed to allow for the stock Pitman arm to work with this high of a lift, so hopefully that will be good. The last thing I need to figure out is shocks. How do I figure out how much more I'll need as far as length. I don't have a clue on how to figure out what I need. I guess I could just figure out what I have, and then add the new height addition to it huh? Is it that simple? Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodvibez Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Damn dude read through both build logs for this truck and its awesome! You did an amazing job with the wiring! Looks soooooo clean! Sooo clean! Everything was documented thoroughly, and would be a great help for someone needing ideas for something in the same truck! Great work man as always! Love your work! Funny how the people who have a louder system than you will usually give you a compliment about your setup because they know how much blood, sweat, time, and money you put into it. The people who criticize or try and one up you....have a p.o.s to no system at all and will tell you all about this "other" guys system! Saddley I'm sure if I meet this "other" guy...he will probably tell me he thinks your just as annoying as I think you are! I'm not compensating, just proud of fabricating! My build log: 10k center console with 4 DC Audio XL 10's powered by 2 DC Audio 5.0k amps 5 xs batteries and dual DC Power 300xps alts http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169404-goodvibez-04-dmax-10k-center-console-w4-xl-10s-custom-5ksit-plays/page-19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Thanks for the kind words man. Hopefully I can get started with the next set of plans soon. I'm working on some stuff. I'll post it up as soon as I know what's going to happen. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97Obslynch Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Where are the pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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